The notorious front suspension noises..

SoulSoak

SoulSoak

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So my car has had this rattle from the front passenger side wheel area for quite some time, but it hasn't been an untolerable or worrysome issue until recently. It doesn't sound like a thud or thunking noise like the noise people refer to when I research the issue. Use your imagination a little bit and picture one of those springy door stoppers that are near your floor in your house. If you pull it to one direction and release it, it makes a metallic rattle noise that dissapates or dissapears in a springy like sound.

Well I know that the dealer had put all new control arms and A-arms etc before I had purchased it, and they look brand new as well as the bushings. However I noticed that this black bar thats closer to the engine bay has bushings in it that are completely split all the way around and are very dry looking. I believe this is the sway bar that I am referring to. Here are my questions..

Would these bushings cause symptoms of rattling sounds like I describe? If so, is installing them a procedure I could do myself? (assuming I'm relatively intelligent and/or at par lol). Also I noticed when I take my wheel off, the rotor is really lose and sloppy. That's never been the case on any car I've ever worked on, but then again it appears these rotors might be held tight and together by the lug nuts? Also I'll add that I used excessive force on the wheels and they had no play in them.

One more thing.. my car has developed this slight clicking/ticking noise that is consistant with the speed of the wheels rotation (the faster I go, the faster the clicking). It does not do this all the time, and when it does it's very faint.. not loud.

Anyhow I just would like your advice and suggestions because you guys have been very helpful. I want to tackle this asap because I am currently not driving my car because I don't want to damage it further.

I will be posting a detailed video tomorow after I crawl under the car, to maybe get better advice and give you guys a view. Thanks and God bless
 
Forgot to add.. the rattle used to only occur on bigger bumps, but now occurs on the slightest bumps.
 
Okay, I'm 99% sure I've found the culprit to these noises.

While inspecting the suspension and finding everything to be intact and in good working condition, I pulled back the splash gaurds directly behind the wheels. There are bushings inside of this big black bar that look completely dry/crusty and are split open all the way around. I believe that this bar is the stabalizer bar or sway bar?

Anyhow.. how difficult is it to pull it out and replace the bushings? I've read that the bushings are molded into the bar and that you have to either cut the bushings out or purchase a new bar.

The problem I'm running into is.. I can't find any front sway bars or stabalizer bars via searching.. all I see are end links.

Could anyone give me some input on how to address this? I found a thread that refers to some energy bushings that are applicable and I'd prefer to use them over the OEM because urethane is better.

Regardless as to whether I can cut the old bushings out and pop new ones in, or replace the whole bar itself.. could anyone provide me with a procedure as to how to go about doing so? I greatly appreciate your time and thank you. I'm heading into work now, borrowing my Father in laws Mexivan until I get my car fixed isn't to enjoyable.

Just incase this is viable or unknown, my LS is a 2003 v8 sport. Thanks again and God bless.
 
^ Yeah, you're pretty vague. I think the first part you were describing is the sway bar end link. The next might be the sway bar bushings. Although they are not in the bar but around it. There are plenty of threads regarding both these issues. I have a few bookmarked on my home comp. Either case, still drivable.
 
I will take a pic tomorow morning because I won't be out of this slave driving facility until 2am. Thanks for the replies.
 
ATrom said:
a few good threads on sway bar bushings
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?33676-Sway-bar-bushings
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?65051-Gen2-Sway-Bar-Bushings-Replacement
Click to expand...

THANK YOU for those links. Judging by the thurough procedure stated by "02V8SPORT" and pictures, this seems to be a rather simple job as long as you got the time. I'm going to buy a small air compressor tonight after work as well as a small air cutting wheel. I'll order the energy bushing tonight as well. I'll need to get an alignment after I do this won't I? And will it hurt my car to drive it a few miles to a local shop to get it aligned?

Also... worse case scenario.. I replace these bushings and the noise persists. Is the changing of the knuckles and/or end links difficult?

Thanks again everyone, and those thread links helped BIGTIME, I'm not afraid to go at this on my own now lol. Anyhow, back to work, God bless !
 
Never changed the knuckles, but end links are simple and straightforward to replace.
 
Okay I just ordered my ES bushings product 9.5171's. Now I'm considering purchasing new end links to install while I'm at it. Anyone wanna suggest a good brand/retailer?

Also, after I chop off the old bushings and put the new ES ones on, and then I install the new end links.. I will need to go get an alignment won't I? Thanks again guys
 
No you will not need an alignment.. In my experience, the sway bar end links go before the sway bar bushings. I've never heard or seen someone replace the sway bar bushings before the links on a genii.
 
I plan on replacing just my sway bar bushing. The end links still look like they got plenty of life left.
My car only has 22k miles so I think the engine heat was the culprit for the sway bar bushings to break down
 
Update.

Here is a link to a quick video I just made while having the car jacked up. Hopefully this gives you a better insight on everything. Also, when I say "tie rods" to sway bar.. I meant "end links" lol.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oEOmcIs27dU

Anyhow, It appears my tie rods might be shot, and/or the bushings in them I don't know for sure. My sway bar end links look brand new.

Please review the video and help me out, thanks for all the help guys. God bless !!
 
If anyone reviews my video, could you tell me if it's normal for my tie rods to twist like that and make that metal clunking sound when twisted? Cuz if it's normal then the only thing that's worn other than my sway bar bushings would be my terrible looking shocks.

I'm going to put my new ES sway bar bushings in this week, if the noise persists then I will look into new shocks/springs. I know I'm going to get Eibach springs, but what shocks would you guys recommend?

Ultimately, just wanna know if the tie rod movement/noise in my video is normal. Thanks for your help guys, and God bless.
 
The thing in your video making noise is your outer tie rod end. Its normal to move that way but not to make that noise. I would replace the inner and outer tie rods at the same time. Get a hose clamp to reuse the boot. IIRC the boot costs more than the tie rods (dealer only part). I prefer Moog tie rod ends but OEM should last a long time.
MOOG Part # EV453 Front Right Inner
MOOG Part # EV452 Front Left Inner
MOOG Part # ES800415 Front Left Outer
MOOG Part # ES800414 Front Right Outer
About $120 plus shipping for all from Rockauto.com

Stabilizer bushings...some people swear by the ES bushings but I dont like them. The stabilizer bar slides side to side because they arent as wide as OEM bushings. If the stabilzer bar has the removeable brackets (not the newer version that you have to cut off the brackets) then use Rein #XR819697 from FCPparts. Its for a Jaguar but fits the LS with the 30mm stabilizer bar. It is the same size as the OEM and fits perfectly if you re-use the factory bushing brackets.

As far as shocks go, use Motorcraft. Other brands dont compare IMO. I used the ones for the sport suspension. Motorcraft #AT705G front and #ASH24468 rear
 
hite337 said:
The thing in your video making noise is your outer tie rod end. Its normal to move that way but not to make that noise. I would replace the inner and outer tie rods at the same time. Get a hose clamp to reuse the boot. IIRC the boot costs more than the tie rods (dealer only part). I prefer Moog tie rod ends but OEM should last a long time.
MOOG Part # EV453 Front Right Inner
MOOG Part # EV452 Front Left Inner
MOOG Part # ES800415 Front Left Outer
MOOG Part # ES800414 Front Right Outer
About $120 plus shipping for all from Rockauto.com

Stabilizer bushings...some people swear by the ES bushings but I dont like them. The stabilizer bar slides side to side because they arent as wide as OEM bushings. If the stabilzer bar has the removeable brackets (not the newer version that you have to cut off the brackets) then use Rein #XR819697 from FCPparts. Its for a Jaguar but fits the LS with the 30mm stabilizer bar. It is the same size as the OEM and fits perfectly if you re-use the factory bushing brackets.

As far as shocks go, use Motorcraft. Other brands dont compare IMO. I used the ones for the sport suspension. Motorcraft #AT705G front and #ASH24468 rear
Click to expand...

Thank you for your detailed and thourogh response. Those tie rods seem very affordable to replace. I will order those and re-use my factory boot. Is the installation of the tie rods difficult? Also after I install them, I believe I need an alignment then. Is it safe to drive the car a few miles to get it aligned? Thanks again
 
SoulSoak said:
Thank you for your detailed and thourogh response. Those tie rods seem very affordable to replace. I will order those and re-use my factory boot. Is the installation of the tie rods difficult? Also after I install them, I believe I need an alignment then. Is it safe to drive the car a few miles to get it aligned? Thanks again
Click to expand...

The part numbers are all the same for all years of LS's. It will not hurt to drive a few miles. Here's what you do...count how many threads are exposed on the origional inner tie rod (or measure with calipers) and install the new ones with the same ammount of threads exposed. That will get very close. The boot has a crimp ring holding it on. cut that off and use a regular worm gear hose clamp. The bolt on the outer tie rod end is slightly difficult. You have to hold the stud with a socket as you turn the nut with a wrench. I backed the nut off a few turns and cut the stud off.

Rockauto.com is a great source for parts. They list part numbers as well as pictures for almost every part. Also fordpartsgiant.com will list every part # your car came with down to the nuts, bolts, and washers. They also have diagrams. Great site for researching parts.
 
hite337 said:
The part numbers are all the same for all years of LS's. It will not hurt to drive a few miles. Here's what you do...count how many threads are exposed on the origional inner tie rod (or measure with calipers) and install the new ones with the same ammount of threads exposed. That will get very close. The boot has a crimp ring holding it on. cut that off and use a regular worm gear hose clamp. The bolt on the outer tie rod end is slightly difficult. You have to hold the stud with a socket as you turn the nut with a wrench. I backed the nut off a few turns and cut the stud off.

Rockauto.com is a great source for parts. They list part numbers as well as pictures for almost every part. Also fordpartsgiant.com will list every part # your car came with down to the nuts, bolts, and washers. They also have diagrams. Great site for researching parts.
Click to expand...

This was the way that I presumed to do the installation(matching threads as close as possible) but I figured I'd ask. I'm ordering the inners/outers directly from Moog's website. I'm aware it will be somewhat more costly ($203), but I've read quite a few nightmare threads of recieving bootleg or junk parts. $200 bucks isn't bad if it fixes my noise issue, hoping it will but regardless my tie rods look like crap so it couldn't hurt. Thanks for the information and help, you've probably solved my problem. God bless you. I will keep you posted on progress and/or if I have questions. I will also post a new thread with detailed pictures on the inner/outer tie rod installation so it will be a good reference to others in the future.
 
I just found that this bolt isn't flush with the assembly underneath my car.. This bolt is at the beginning of the black metal rails that run parallel to the car on the left and right side, these two bolts (one driver side and one passenger side) are both gapped like this. It almost seems that the assembly they are holding together would be loose or slightly sloppy without them being tightened flush to the assembly. It appears that the Lower Control arms connect to this unit, the control arm bushing is right behind the bolt.

I am eager to tighten these and go for a spin to see if it was he cause of my rattle in fron suspension, however I don't want to tighten them and strip threads if they aren't supposed to be tightened more. Urgent intel on this would be greatly appreciated. Here's a pic, thank you. image.jpg

image.jpg
 
Sorry my pic is sideways, if you tilt your head to the left then the pic is correct. My apologies and thank you
 
Nevermind, my impatient ass just sheered the bolt completely off. Just gonna take it to the shop, done with it for now. Appreciate everyone's help and info on everything, I'll be back when I cool off. God bless
 
SoulSoak said:
Sorry my pic is sideways, if you tilt your head to the left then the pic is correct. My apologies and thank you
Click to expand...

Those bolts are supposed to stick out like that. They weren't loose. There's a number of threads on here from people who have messed them up.
(If those are the ones I am thinking of. It's hard to be sure from that picture.)
 
Could use a confirmation, Anyone ??

2002 LINCOLN LS V8 (3.9L) non-sport...w/ chrome trim...(old and tacky that's me)

Can anyone confirm what (Energy Sus #) you used -and- any info why the 1-1/8" diameter
that LVC member 02V8Sport used has a differing Part# 9.5164 (1-1/8") for the (1-1/8") I have ??

The Part# I have is: 9.5170R (1-1/8") ..See attached pic.

Dino'sLSdeuce- Swaybar.jpg

Could anyone share info of either Part# to use or not use... Also, w/o me actually crawling
underneath the car... Can someone shed some light as to 02V8Sport's issue regarding
Original Molded Bushings?? ...where some may or maynot have the same issue if you are
or are not the Original LS Owner ?? Regarding the issue w/ having to cuting-off the bushings??

It's some-what difficult to keep up when a member starts w/ topic Sway Bar Bushings, then it jumps to
Tie-rod ends and their Part#'s then a comment mentions the Part# to a post from a previous post he may
be having w/ a specific member regarding a Part# not related to the Sway bar bushings ... Then a new post
back to the Sway bar bushings topic...etc.. So, I do apologize for being to my inability to keep up w/
the head topic and whether or not it's what some (but not all members) may or maynot be talking about).

...where was I now?? Ohh yeah ES PART# for 2002 Lincoln LS V8 non-sport ??

Dino'sLSdeuce- Swaybar.jpg
 
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