Brakes Mistakes

dnsherrill

dnsherrill

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(I tried to make this brief)
I have two Marks, white and brown- re-doing white car brakes currently
-I removed all 4 rotors from The Brown One (it's currently on stands in the garage)- rotors measured ok so I had em turned
- both rear calipers on The White One had torn dust boots so I took the calipers off the Brown One (they looked ok) and put them on the white car, with new Wagner pads and the turned rotors from the brown car
-on the White car, I used the turned front rotors and re-used the old pads
-to bleed, I used a vac pump/tester and cannister to bleed the brakes myself; RR, LR, LF,RF 2x around,I also slightly depressed the E brake a few times to try and engage the ABS pump; also started the engine and pumped the pedal to expedite filling the cannister a few times
- drove it, front drv side caliper inside pad was put in backwards, drove it to/fro work-90 miles; front rotor and pad destroyed and removed, replaced with the rotor that was on there, I put in a used pad with about 30% left
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-now, when I drive it, the pedal has normal resistance (not soft at all) the front end shutters some when stopping, and at very low speeds, just before coming to a complete stop, the pedal sort of 'pulsates'- feels like it's pushing back
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I've ordered new front Wagner pads and EBC front rotors to be installed next weekend
no ABS light on, no problem stopping or slamming on brakes, firm pedal except when almost stopped- then it pulsates
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could I have lost my proportioning valve? just a crap rotor, pads= unbalanced front braking?
:confused:
 
Are you asking about the pedal pulsates? If so its the old warped non turned rotor you put on up front. Also brake bleed should be RR LR RF LF, its farthest from master first.
 
thx ROTM
yea, that's the sequence I used, I mistyped above. Although there is dispute over that here also :shifty:
my service manual says, "Bleed the longest lines first"
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the sales guy at Advance who 'used to work on cars' mentioned the prop valve possibility
 
+1 on the bad rotor
Correct me if I'm wrong but the e-brake has nothing to do with the abs so why would it active the abs.
 
that's if the back wheels are off the ground. then the traction control will cycle the abs pump to brake the wheels.
 
today I changed the front left rotor and pads, pedal still pulsates:Bang
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now I have:
-front LH: new rotor,new pads
-front RH; turned rotor, used pads
both rears, turned rotors, new pads
---
I have another new EBC front rotor coming Saturday and will put it and the new front pads on the RH side;
if it's still pulsing after that, I guess I'll put new rear rotors on, although all the turned rotors are above the discard width and within 1/100" around the circumference
 
dnsherrill said:
today I changed the front left rotor and pads, pedal still pulsates:Bang
----
now I have:
-front LH: new rotor,new pads
-front RH; turned rotor, used pads
both rears, turned rotors, new pads
---
I have another new EBC front rotor coming Saturday and will put it and the new front pads on the RH side;
if it's still pulsing after that, I guess I'll put new rear rotors on, although all the turned rotors are above the discard width and within 1/100" around the circumference
Click to expand...

Take wheels off put lugs back on to hold rotor tight and put an indicator on rotor and spin. See what it has for runout.
 
Like this.
000_0168.jpg
 
what is that? a piece of iron L-stock clamped to the spindle, then the run-out gauge is clamped onto the L? everything tight and immobilized?
 
dnsherrill said:
what is that? a piece of iron L-stock clamped to the spindle, then the run-out gauge is clamped onto the L? everything tight and immobilized?
Click to expand...

Yep just grabbed stuff around shop to get the indicator on the rotor. The blue part is a magnetic base so it just sticks to the L stock. Anyway you can get it to measure runout is the goal.
 
eh, I just remembered....on the RH front, I have a stripped lug stud, so there's no nut on there..that's prolly adding to my unevenness....it's always one thing after another, I tell ya
 
driving today, taking either window up/down, I could tell for sure the noise was coming from the drivers side, most likely the rear. After work I changed that rotor; the pulsating pedal, vibrations and the noisey wheel were all GONE. Went ahead and changed the pass side rear rotor also, I will do the front pass side rotor/pad this w/e and finally be where I should have started, all new rotors and pads
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the thread is called Brakes Mistakes : one mistake I made was on the drivers rear caliper, the brake line was twisted after re-install, not kinked, but I did twist it a bit (initially) before bolting the caliper on the knuckle, which may have contributed to the pulsating pedal/uneven braking? with the new rotor i did it right
 
yep, riding on a lumpy wheel made me feel like Fred Flintstone....I'm just wondering if the unevenness was b/c of the twisted rubber brake hose (i.e. to untwist it i just had to flip the caliper one time)
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today I'll get the strut mounts r/r...and hopefully eliminate the front end 'clunk'
 
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