I got a couple cars yesterday and one has perfect trim. I am contemplating removing it and using it on my 94, but I'm concerned about destroying it while removing it. Has anyone done this? I am also hoping to save some to get some molds made as well. I have some contacts in the RV industry that might be able to repop this stuff.
Who has removed the rear window trim?
- Thread starter tirefryr
- Start date
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
The rear window trim is a part of the window and cannot be removed.
97MarkJA
Dedicated LVC Member
Swap the entire rear glass. The trim is bonded to the window.
davidm
Well-Known LVC Member
You can cut it off flush with the window. Cleans it up to a point,but the paint underneath is not in the best shape.
So...., Who would be a good source to get the rear window glass from?
I've read a few rear glass r&r topics here and there and no one has mentioned a good reputable place to get our glass with the bonded trim. I would also be interested in having my lasanga trim fixed correctly.
I've read a few rear glass r&r topics here and there and no one has mentioned a good reputable place to get our glass with the bonded trim. I would also be interested in having my lasanga trim fixed correctly.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Any place that sells Ford glass. I heard Tasca Ford was listed. I called my glass place and Carlite glass was 500.00 just for glass.
Travisg32v
Active LVC Member
Right on the mark - If you know someone who would reproduce these gaskets i think that would be the ultimate solution for this issue, not just for you, but for MANY other users on Lvc, myself included. i would be highly interested in purchasing one if it was a good quality reproduction
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
The problem is you would still have to remove back glass to install new trim. You would also have to get old one off old glass when its glued on from Ford.
Travisg32v
Active LVC Member
what about using a razor blade and just cutting it off flush with the glass? im sure there must be another way to install the gasket than ford did it( having gasket and window as a 1 piece unit), but yes i can see where that wouyld be an issue
If you cut off old gasket the only way to "install" another one would be to glue the remaining rubber gasket directly to the glass and body, you'd have to use some strong glue to keep it on there..probably windshield urethane would be best and it would be difficult to not make a total mess with that sh*t oozing out around the edges of the gasket. The only other alternative is new or used glass with a good seal and no matter how you go about doing that its not going to be cheap. Used glass at the jy usually goes for around $100 and the best way to remove it would be to have a mobile glass company come out to the jy and remove it, then remove your old glass and install on your car..which is another expense. I had a brand new back window installed and retinted back in january and insurance covered it 100%, zero deductible on my comprehensive is what saved me.
Travisg32v
Active LVC Member
KevIIIn- Why not mask off the surrounding area with tape like when you paint a car? couldnt that prevent all messes? the idea you just said is EXACTLY what i have been trying to say to do, you can try window urethane, but unless your installing the glass itself my opinion still stands firm that there are other alternatives, someone needs to try this and see if it works, im sure even if the gasket isnt "MADE IN" to the glass with the proper adhesive it would work just fine, i bet if everything was taped off properly when the adhesive dried and the tape was removed it would look great and be a simple solution to one huge headache of a problem concerning Mark Viiis
Travisg32v
Active LVC Member
and windows might be a bitch to remove but a decent 12" long commercial glazing type razor knife should cut that window urethane right out,. might just go through a few blades, ive actually seen 2 veryyyyy nice rear window gaskets at my local JY, i guess when the time comes im gonna have to be the one to try this and make a thread on it (hopfully by then i will have a decent camera and have the capabilities to upload decent photos)
Trust me it ain't easy cutting through that factory glue..the glass place that did mine had a vibrating knife that heats up and even that was a pain to use. Once they got part of the way through they used a thin gauge wire to slide through and "saw" the rest of the glue to sperate the window from the body. The blade has to actually go under the glass to cut the urethane.
Travisg32v
Active LVC Member
Alright, well ive never tried to cut one out but if its any issue at all i can use some glazing tools 
if the razor knife wont do it an electric fine tool WILL its what its made for,(might of been what you saw used) and my dad has one so im sure i can use it.i figured it would have to go under the glass too, it shouldnt really be an issue,. Damn, my dad built his 70 mach 1 drag car with a 460 and ported scj heads that runs on a n enderle alcohol injection setup COMPLETLEY by himself, including fabbing the floors, headers, and frame himself, so if i cant do it, i know he can. this should be interesting to say the least, im sure itll be difficult but i bet money it can be done, and be an easier altyernative
if the razor knife wont do it an electric fine tool WILL its what its made for,(might of been what you saw used) and my dad has one so im sure i can use it.i figured it would have to go under the glass too, it shouldnt really be an issue,. Damn, my dad built his 70 mach 1 drag car with a 460 and ported scj heads that runs on a n enderle alcohol injection setup COMPLETLEY by himself, including fabbing the floors, headers, and frame himself, so if i cant do it, i know he can. this should be interesting to say the least, im sure itll be difficult but i bet money it can be done, and be an easier altyernativeRight on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Alright, well ive never tried to cut one out but if its any issue at all i can use some glazing tools
I mentioned nice easy way to get window out in my thread. I just used a puddy knife. I used my propane torch to heat knife then slide in. Heat and slide heat and slide. It slices the urethane and not the rubber moulding.
Travisg32v
Active LVC Member
See i knew it wouldnt of been bad to take it out, a razor knife would have been more than enough, (althought might have sliced molding) im sure when that heat hit that urethane it turned it soupy and it came right out, let me know how everything goes.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
I personally watched a glass man take the glass out of my black 94 I had and he took the glass out of the black 93 and then put that glass into the 94. He used a reciprocating saw with a cutting knife on the end and it wasn't a very easy task for him. It's in there a lot tighter than you would imagine. He charged $119 to remove 2 and replace 1, right here in my driveway. Anyway, that car is long gone now but a new glass from Tasca is right at $350 with shipping. TascaParts.com / Put in 1996, Choose "Body Hardware" and back glass will be the first choice. If kept garaged, it should be good for life.
MsM8tress
Dedicated LVC Member
95 - could you look up that part number from Tasca and provide it - along with ordering info - that window looks TIGHT!!!!! When I read your insurance co found a replacement, my jaw dropped...mine couldn't
My solution was to buy a rear with molding three years ago...been in my office ever since...Tux doesn't need it yet....but he is getting pitting and has two inkey dinky curls...despite anything I use on it, and he is garaged, don't see snow or rain....except the times (EVERY TIME!) I would go to the LVC Christmas party in Chicago. But my 95 needs replaced...not bad, but will be in a few years. Would be nice to know there is a source for a new one.
THANKS in advance
Smooches
MsM8!
My solution was to buy a rear with molding three years ago...been in my office ever since...Tux doesn't need it yet....but he is getting pitting and has two inkey dinky curls...despite anything I use on it, and he is garaged, don't see snow or rain....except the times (EVERY TIME!) I would go to the LVC Christmas party in Chicago. But my 95 needs replaced...not bad, but will be in a few years. Would be nice to know there is a source for a new one.
THANKS in advance
Smooches
MsM8!
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't believe they show a part # for it but Kevin was the one that went through his insurance on a new one. See if this link works for you.
http://www.tascaparts.com/parts/1996/LINCOLN/MARK%20VIII/LSC/?siteid=213668&vehicleid=1188547&diagram=KB93440&diagramCallOut=1
http://www.tascaparts.com/parts/1996/LINCOLN/MARK%20VIII/LSC/?siteid=213668&vehicleid=1188547&diagram=KB93440&diagramCallOut=1
mrt2you
Active LVC Member
here is a link, 17 min youtube video, to the tool the glass co, auto glass specialists, uses to remove windshields and back glass at our shop. it takes about 30 min, that includes paperwork time, for them to remove a glass without damaging anything. once the glass is removed it should be easy to remove the molding if you take your time and work carefully.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfNJeeWJbjQ
find a local glass co that uses this tool or something similar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfNJeeWJbjQ
find a local glass co that uses this tool or something similar.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Have you ever first hand removed the trim from a MK8 back glass? They are glued on like mad
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Have you ever first hand removed the trim from a MK8 back glass? They are glued on like mad
mrt2you
Active LVC Member
i removed the back glass from my 95 parts car.
they are basically a C channel bonded to the glass. almost the same way a chevy cavalier is only the molding is much larger and less fragile.
the reason i mention the cavalier is because there was a large batch of them built with defective windshields and guess who helped replace them while saving the moldings.
all you have to do is after removing the glass lay the windshield upside, inside of the glass facing up, down on a stand. carefully take a razor knife, a glazing knife posted before is the same thing only larger, and hold the blade parallel to the glass and cut off bottom of the molding channel flush to the glass. now take the blade and carefully and slowly trim the side of the molding C channel from the side of the glass but don't cut deep enough to go thru the fron of the molding. the molding should almost fall off the glass. if it doesn't get out a heat gun and warm it up a little. heat will help the molding release itself from the glass. when the molding is removed lay it flat and don't rest anything against it.
now when you install it. if you save the side channel of the molding when you removing, installation will be easy. just install the glass first. after the glass is installed with even gaps around the sides put a small bead of urethane to fill about 1/2 of the gap. now just push the flat part of the molding side channel into the bead. after you get the molding around the glass lay a small bead of urethane on the bottom of the glass. now put the bottom molding, by the t lid, on the bead and slide it into place and tape it into position. after that is done even the molding out the rest of the way around the glass.
i know it sounds like a lot of stuff to do in shuch a short time. fast set urethane takes about 20 min to set so there is plenty of time to adjust the molding and any excess urethane wipes off with wax and grease remover.
take your time, don't panic, and work in the shade.
or more importantly hire a seasoned pro to do the job. they have the special tools and equipment to do the job right the first time. and he should have the experience to do the job also.
they are basically a C channel bonded to the glass. almost the same way a chevy cavalier is only the molding is much larger and less fragile.
the reason i mention the cavalier is because there was a large batch of them built with defective windshields and guess who helped replace them while saving the moldings.
all you have to do is after removing the glass lay the windshield upside, inside of the glass facing up, down on a stand. carefully take a razor knife, a glazing knife posted before is the same thing only larger, and hold the blade parallel to the glass and cut off bottom of the molding channel flush to the glass. now take the blade and carefully and slowly trim the side of the molding C channel from the side of the glass but don't cut deep enough to go thru the fron of the molding. the molding should almost fall off the glass. if it doesn't get out a heat gun and warm it up a little. heat will help the molding release itself from the glass. when the molding is removed lay it flat and don't rest anything against it.
now when you install it. if you save the side channel of the molding when you removing, installation will be easy. just install the glass first. after the glass is installed with even gaps around the sides put a small bead of urethane to fill about 1/2 of the gap. now just push the flat part of the molding side channel into the bead. after you get the molding around the glass lay a small bead of urethane on the bottom of the glass. now put the bottom molding, by the t lid, on the bead and slide it into place and tape it into position. after that is done even the molding out the rest of the way around the glass.
i know it sounds like a lot of stuff to do in shuch a short time. fast set urethane takes about 20 min to set so there is plenty of time to adjust the molding and any excess urethane wipes off with wax and grease remover.
take your time, don't panic, and work in the shade.
or more importantly hire a seasoned pro to do the job. they have the special tools and equipment to do the job right the first time. and he should have the experience to do the job also.