harsh transmission shifts

whatever it is it gets reset when I disconnect the battery then doesn't work properly maybe the computer that controls the transmission shifts...
 
joegr said:
Coil problems tend to show at times other than when the transmission shifts. QUOTE]

i agree with this part, but the 4-5 shift puts the most load on the car in my experience. therefore it would be the first symptom, as it was for me. i drove mine until i started getting misfires and limp mode (wrench light) due to interference. the codes said throttle issues but it was definitely the coils bc of RF intereference (lincoln coonfirmed the intereference and improper code as well)

to save on the coils, use code a123 or es123 and buy the coils seperately at advance auto and pick them up in store. you should be able to save 40% on the price of each coil if you use the coupons right. if those coupons dont work, search this: slickdeals.net for the latest advanceauto coupons
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REDBED said:
Dealer will do nothing but tell you need a new trans. They will not diagnose other than to tell you yours is no good and well be happy to sell you a new one.
Buy a new solenoid assmby and have it installed. I hope you have a trusted mech as this major F%%%k Up from FOMC can be repaired but for big $$$. It's pretty disconcertining to hear and feel the driveshaft "clunck". If throwing $1k is a problem for a 9 year old car you aint seen nothing yet. If you intend to do proper maintence and repair on this vehichle I hope you are mechnically inclined with acss. to a lift Wait till the front end starts falling apart. Good Luck
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i agree that its expensive to have the work done @ lincoln and also agree that cars fall apart. but my lincoln dealer doesnt even charge me diagnostic on most issues bc they have a coupon that says they will diagnose a litany of systems for free. they know i do most of the work myself and have been very helpful. they checked my car out for free after i totaled it and even gave me the names of the freelance guys they ocasionally contract work out to so i could save even more.

and when i had the same issues OP was having, lincoln improperly diagnosed that 2 coils were bad and forgot to stress test the whole other bank that was underneath the intake. all 3 underneath the intake were bad and they were kind enough to take all 3 of the new ones i put on the accessible bank and put them on the other bank underneath the intake for free. saved me a fair amount of labor and cost of gaskets.

PS usually its the TCC causing the 'clunk' but maybe your driveshaft is bad..
 
lking said:
whatever it is it gets reset when I disconnect the battery then doesn't work properly maybe the computer that controls the transmission shifts...
Click to expand...

The PCM (engine computer) also controls the transmission. After a "reset" it controls the transmission with the default strategy and parameters. After it has enough data on the way your transmission reacts (pressures and timings) it moves away from the safer defaults and tries to optimize things. Apparently, you have some fault that keeps this from working out too well.
 
joegr said:
The PCM (engine computer) also controls the transmission. After a "reset" it controls the transmission with the default strategy and parameters. After it has enough data on the way your transmission reacts (pressures and timings) it moves away from the safer defaults and tries to optimize things. Apparently, you have some fault that keeps this from working out too well.
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what would my best bet be? to replace the PCM computer?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCM-ECM-ENG...&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c31325076&autorefresh=true
 
this keeps getting better the PCM needs to be programed by authorized mechanic or dealer

"We program this module to your vehicle by your VIN # and may require Security relearn(if PATS equipped). Security relearn can only be done by authorized mechanic or dealer . "
 
i'm gonna stop being a cheapskate and finally replace the dying/dead battery I hope this solves the problem
 
lking said:
this keeps getting better the PCM needs to be programed by authorized mechanic or dealer

"We program this module to your vehicle by your VIN # and may require Security relearn(if PATS equipped). Security relearn can only be done by authorized mechanic or dealer . "
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There's no may about it. The PCM has to be married to the cluster. Without that, it won't even try to start. You need to take all your keys with you.
 
lking said:
i'm gonna stop being a cheapskate and finally replace the dying/dead battery I hope this solves the problem
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Wait, you have a bad battery and you are wanting to throw other parts at your problems first? The electric parking brake is known to complain greatly when you have a weak/bad battery, for example.
 
lking said:
i'm gonna stop being a cheapskate and finally replace the dying/dead battery I hope this solves the problem
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make that another reason not to touch your tranny...
get a new battery and coils first, your issues will go away once properly calibrated.

get your alternator tested while youre at it bc it may have killed the battery or vice versa.
 
joegr said:
The electric parking brake is known to complain greatly when you have a weak/bad battery, for example.
Click to expand...

true, but only bc it prompts to reset the parking brake parameters/sensors the first time the key is turned after the car has lost power. if driver ignores it, shuts off car before it prompts, etc. etc. it will cause the parkign brake service light to come on.
 
REDBED said:
I recently had the solenoid asymbly. replaced for the same sympton as yours. Bought car to dealer and PCM was reflashed with latest software. I purchased the part from TASCA for $275. Bought car to Mech and he replaced for 2.5 hours labor. Mine is also a 2004 V6. There is no way to correct this other than by changing the solenoids. Car shifts better than new. Good Luck.

PS I also had the E brake module fail. I think its an easy fix if you don't mind working under the car. Mine was done on a lift in the shop.
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how much did the dealer charge you to reflash the PCM?
 
replaced the battery didn't help with the shifts or the E break light

at least the car starts in the mornings now lol

IMG_2113.jpg new battery from Lincoln dealer 750 cranking amps


IMG_2114.jpg old battery

IMG_2113.jpg


IMG_2114.jpg
 
joegr said:
There's no may about it. The PCM has to be married to the cluster. Without that, it won't even try to start. You need to take all your keys with you.
Click to expand...

don't you think if the PCM wasn't working properly it would be throwing a code...i'm starting to think it might be the SOLENOID pack after all

still don't know why it works after battery reset if it is the solenoid maybe the solenoid gets reset too
 
ah man that sucks.
do your coils first buddy

yall are leading him down the wrong path here.
he has oem coils with >60k miles... he had misfires and only replaced one coil...
 
jrand said:
ah man that sucks.
do your coils first buddy

yall are leading him down the wrong path here.
he has oem coils with >60k miles... he had misfires and only replaced one coil...
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the solenoid pack is also oem with >60k miles

the only one trying to lead me down the wrong path is you
 
lking said:
the solenoid pack is also oem with >60k miles

the only one trying to lead me down the wrong path is you
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bahaha youre off your rocker buddy. somebody help this poor misguided soul for his own sake. you dont replace coils one at a time. your 5 coils are failing and will fail within 3-5k miles. everyone here who has tried will attest to that. the failing coils are causing your shift issues. keep fckin around and putting it off though and it just might blow your current solenoid. maybe blow your new solenoid too..
 
plus you need to run a drive cycle after a battery disconnect to get the tranny to shift right, not just the battery disconnect procedure from the owners manual. im sure its far too cold in canada to do a complete drive cycle (its gotta be above 40 degrees F), so im sure youre not doing that right anyhow.

but you need to do your coils first.
 
thanks stranger but nawww don't care what you say i'm not touching the coils unless they start misfiring
 
half of your 'harsh shifts' probably are misfires.
it can misfire w/o throwin a code and its a real good indicator that its missing if your coils are that old and your shifting is harsh.

buuuuuuuut im not gonna argue with ya. its your car.
 
jrand said:
half of your 'harsh shifts' probably are misfires.
it can misfire w/o throwin a code and its a real good indicator that its missing if your coils are that old and your shifting is harsh.

buuuuuuuut im not gonna argue with ya. its your car.
Click to expand...

it sure is

so tell me why does the transmission shift harshly when put into drive or reverse? the car is in idle not much stress on the coils

if I remember correctly i did have a bad coil once and I only felt the misfire when the car was in idle not in drive or when it was shifting and there was gas smell also and my engine light was on at the time i have none of these symptoms now


your telling me the coils misfire when the car shifts gears to try and get me to change the coils for nothing so i waste my money
 
jrand said:
half of your 'harsh shifts' probably are misfires.
it can misfire w/o throwin a code and its a real good indicator that its missing if your coils are that old and your shifting is harsh.

buuuuuuuut im not gonna argue with ya. its your car.
Click to expand...

heres what another member had to say about your bogus advice

"I don't know where you get your material but it is generally bogus. You don't need to periodically calibrate the transmission, or relearn the battery. RED's symptoms were classic for a solenoid failure. I had one fail on my '00 at around 90K miles. Still in warranty but I stupidly followed what your advise was and ended up having to have it done on my dime as I waited too long.

RED, the recall was for the valve body, NOT the solenoid pack. There was a needle valve that wasn't machined correctly (I got to see one at the trans factory in '03) and had a bur on the end, causing it to stick. " LS4me
 
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