Water Pump R/R

dnsherrill

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trying to find noise source and inspect water pump
Should the idler and tensioner pulleys spin without noise? what will tell me the WP is bad?
 
in stop and go traffic it spends most of the time around 'O' and 'R'...edges towards 'N'...needle also can move quickly from 'O' down to 'M' and back pretty quickly...leaving 1 or 2 clear, not green, spots on the parking spot near the Tq Conv or behind...my reservoir is pretty jade green coolant...just filled at crossover, fixin to burp...my idler and pulley spin easy but are noisy as hell
 
in stop and go traffic it spends most of the time around 'O' and 'R'...edges towards 'N'...needle also can move quickly from 'O' down to 'M' and back pretty quickly...leaving 1 or 2 clear, not green, spots on the parking spot near the Tq Conv or behind...my reservoir is pretty jade green coolant...just filled at crossover, fixin to burp...my idler and pulley spin easy but are noisy as hell

A fluctuating temperature isn't such a good sign... At least down here in Florida it isn't. Don't know if the temperatures up there make a difference.
 
now I'm mostly curious where the clear water is coming from...defroster?
getting that WP out will be a beeatch
 
now I'm mostly curious where the clear water is coming from...defroster?
getting that WP out will be a beeatch

While running AC?

Water pump is SIMPLE, 8 bolts, 4 10mm+4 13mm. Theres tabs build on the pump located by the upper housing bolts so you can pry it out of the block
 
easy

The water pump on the MKVIII's is the easiest pump I've ever changed. My 74 T-BRD,460 took around 4 hours. The MKVIII around 30 min. Don't forget the di-electric grease for the o-ring.
 
The water pump on the MKVIII's is the easiest pump I've ever changed. My 74 T-BRD,460 took around 4 hours. The MKVIII around 30 min. Don't forget the di-electric grease for the o-ring.

X2, also the tensioner and idle pulley are easy fixes too. Start with those and then go to the water pump if the noise hasn’t gone away. Do you have a newer belt on there?
 
in stop and go traffic it spends most of the time around 'O' and 'R'...edges towards 'N'...needle also can move quickly from 'O' down to 'M' and back pretty quickly...leaving 1 or 2 clear, not green, spots on the parking spot near the Tq Conv or behind...my reservoir is pretty jade green coolant...just filled at crossover, fixin to burp...my idler and pulley spin easy but are noisy as hell

Do you have an original T-stat? Once the car is warmed up it should not change that much in normal driving. Also you’re in GA and I know it’s humid as a camels butt crack down there, so the clear water sounds just like condensation from the AC system.
 
I got into pulling the WP one night, but gave up when I couldn't pull it out, plus it seems good
-the clear water was from a poor weld old to new exhaust, RH side...Radi replaced 40k ago, assuming T-stat also- I didn't do it...the running hot has not repeated (much): essentially it gets up to 'O' and 'N' (which are still normal) when I'm in prolonged, stop-go-stop-go traffic jams on 285, so long as I'm moving I'm close to 'M' or 'R'...; the noise was about 80% from the pulleys..my alt is making some noise also...water pump bearings seem ok..so the question is...my alt is charging fine, but noisy...should I do somehting now? go ahead and get a backup? used? gen1 or gen 2?
 
Remote alternator prior to it failing. Noises mean the bearings are going out.
Would you rather change it in the leasure of your driveway while drinking a beer, or at 9pm when it seizes and snaps your belt on the freeway?
 
Remote alternator prior to it failing. Noises mean the bearings are going out.
Would you rather change it in the leasure of your driveway while drinking a beer, or at 9pm when it seizes and snaps your belt on the freeway?


Or in the snow covered parking lot in the freezing friggin cold.... been there
 
fair enough..preventive maint....or palliative care as we call it in the medical field...
should I go with...? used Fomoco- gen 1 used vs. gen 2 used?
new Autozone/NAPA/O'Reilly's, swapped 1x/month?
Five Star or somehting similar for >$200?
 
Gen2 alts put out a few more amps. Go with those. Plug in the connector first then tighten the alternator down, otherwise you won't be able to plug it in.
 
Remote alternator prior to it failing. Noises mean the bearings are going out.
Would you rather change it in the leasure of your driveway while drinking a beer, or at 9pm when it seizes and snaps your belt on the freeway?

Or at 6am on the way to work in -10 weather.
 

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