Yea, I did what everyone said not to do. (Diff Questions)

SleeperMark

Well-Known LVC Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
339
Reaction score
2
Location
Novelty
I swapped out my ring and pinion yesterday along with all new bearings. When I checked the backlash it seemed to read right at .010. My compound pattern was faint bit it looked like outer tip on drive side and inner tip on coast side. Now here comes the problem.... First problem is I used a 3/4in impact on the pinion nut and Im not sure it is tight enough because when I shift into reverse I hear a clunk. Second bigger problem, (you guessed it) They moan. :( The worst is at 18mph and its off and on until I get above 50mph. Checked the oil today after 60 miles and it is glittery and very thin, (almost like water). I used Oreilly's MasterPro brand (80-90) just to get the break in out of the way and then I was going to put in a synthetic. I am at a loss now tho. Brand new gears and I really dont want to trash them. How much does that crush sleeve take? Should my yoke have ANY play? (right now i would say it can move 2 or 3mm in and out). Would a loose pinion even cause moaning? And would it even be worth my time and money to have it professionally set up before I kill them, or are they already done? Thanks for any input. I will listen to you all next time when you say have a pro do it.
 
There shouldn't be any play in the yoke. The purpose of the crush sleeve is to set the pinion bearing preload, which you obviously didn't do.

If you want to try and reuse the gears, don't drive it anymore.

And plan on a new set of pinion bearings/races also.
 
Holy SMOKES! Pinion does NOT move in and out at all when crush is set. It sounds like you never crushed the collar at all. I don't know how you would get any setup #'s with crush not set. You might have already killed them. Oh also an impact gun does NOT crush the collar or any impact I own. You should have just asked for help.
 
Your right. I didnt. So is there any way that I can try to set it without dropping the entire pumpkin again?
 
My buddy said he knew how to do it after he did his but he obviously had no idea, and nor did I. So I think we made a mess
 
Your right. I didnt. So is there any way that I can try to set it without dropping the entire pumpkin again?

No.

At the very least the pinion bearings and races will have to be replaced, and the backlash set after the pinion preload is properly set.

Remove it and take it to someone that knows what they're doing, before you make it any worse.
 
To crush collar I have a special 2 foot long steel flat bar with 2 holes drilled into it to bolt to pinion flange. This gets "jammed" against car floor while I crush the collar with a 3 foot pipe on 1/2 ratchet. That how much force it takes!
 
If I have to take it out again I guess Ill just take it somewhere and have it redone. Any Ideas how much it might cost just taking the pumpkin into a shop?
 
The reason I ask is because the only 3 shops out here try to rip you off in any way possible.
 
250 ish. But problem is you might have done damage already. Also It would have to be a complete tear down because I would not trust anything in there. You where also "pounding" the pinion bearings by not setting preload.
 
It all seemed to be going good until i went to back out of the garage and heard that clunk. then the noises started. So if the ring and pinion are already damaged will they just always be noisy or will they have to be replaced because of durability issues?
 
It all seemed to be going good until i went to back out of the garage and heard that clunk. then the noises started. So if the ring and pinion are already damaged will they just always be noisy or will they have to be replaced because of durability issues?

If you gouged up or wore into the teeth at all they are junk. I would strip it down and check out all the teeth.
 
Took the car to my local shop today. He took it all apart and said that the crush sleeve was barely even tight. Crushed that and re shimmed just to be safe and its silent now. Now I just have to find that annoying vibration that gets louder as I pass 75... Ideas?
 
Took the car to my local shop today. He took it all apart and said that the crush sleeve was barely even tight. Crushed that and re shimmed just to be safe and its silent now. Now I just have to find that annoying vibration that gets louder as I pass 75... Ideas?

Is this a serious question?
 
Well... this vibration. Did you have it before you did the gears and what ratio gears did you go to?
 
If the pinion bearings and races weren't changed, I wouldn't put that diff in my car.
 
Took the car to my local shop today. He took it all apart and said that the crush sleeve was barely even tight. Crushed that and re shimmed just to be safe and its silent now. Now I just have to find that annoying vibration that gets louder as I pass 75... Ideas?

LOL do you have any year driveshaft but a 1993? If so thats your problem.
 
The sound has been there since I got the car. With the 3.07's it started at about 90-100. Now with the 3.73's it has moved down to about 75. Yes I just had EVERYTHING replaced in the rear end today except for the ring and pinion gear and the carrier. All new bearings and sleeves. It is a 1995 so the driveshaft may be the issue. The U Joint at the transmission and diff seem to be fine, but what connects the 2 shafts? is it just another U Joint or is there some kind of carrier bearing there also?
 
It's the ds. Known problem when upgrading gears on anything but a 93 as it was the only year of the solid 1 piece.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top