AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Did you replace all plastic parts?
Why is my LS overheating????
- Thread starter Justin S
- Start date
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Did you bleed it for a good 20-30 minutes? If you bleed it for 30 minutes and it still over heats you either are not bleeding properly .... have air getting in the system....a fan malfunctioning.... or a water pump malfunction last and very unlikely a head gasket blown
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Water pump problems are rare, but they do happen. Micro-cracks in the plastic tee of the upper radiator hose are pretty common.
Why do you resist replacing the radiator hoses?
Did you look at the front of the passenger radiator tank? You have to remove the plastic piece and the radiator support on that side to see it. You are looking for a barely visible crack and/or some staining (often white).
By the way, bleeding is easier with the front of the car downhill, and very difficult with the front uphill.
If it is only overheating at idle or very low speeds, then the hydraulic fan is suspect. Overheating while driving 45 MPH or higher rules the fan out.
Why do you resist replacing the radiator hoses?
Did you look at the front of the passenger radiator tank? You have to remove the plastic piece and the radiator support on that side to see it. You are looking for a barely visible crack and/or some staining (often white).
By the way, bleeding is easier with the front of the car downhill, and very difficult with the front uphill.
If it is only overheating at idle or very low speeds, then the hydraulic fan is suspect. Overheating while driving 45 MPH or higher rules the fan out.
Yeah I checked the radiator as well as I could but i only took off the plastic piece. I ordered a water pump a couple minutes ago and im going to buy fan relay in a few minutes. I'm not really resisting it, I'm just in an apartment complex with like no tools other thsn wrenches and sockets. I used needle nose on alot of the clamps so far. Lol.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Good luck then. Seems foolish.
Well, that should be very very interesting. Your (gen 1) fan is hydraulic, there is no relay. Even the gen 2 electric fan is a smart motor, so there is no relay or external module.
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
Now your just playing a parts guessing game... You saw how bad the other plastic parts are. I don't understand why you wouldn't want to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses. Your going to need to change them I assure you. We have all given you the right advise on what to do but if you don't want to listen to it good luck.
lincoln_zero
Dedicated LVC Member
Justin S,
When micro cracks form, they can pull air bubbles into the system. So no matter how many times you bleed it, air can get back in. It may not be leaking out through these cracks, hence no calcium.
These fella's are telling you to replace the whole coolant system that contain plastic parts, because there is unknown areas that can be leaking air in.
Your fan is not the culprit.
I know this is frustrating. But if you do as these guys say, you will work out the problem.
When micro cracks form, they can pull air bubbles into the system. So no matter how many times you bleed it, air can get back in. It may not be leaking out through these cracks, hence no calcium.
These fella's are telling you to replace the whole coolant system that contain plastic parts, because there is unknown areas that can be leaking air in.
Your fan is not the culprit.
I know this is frustrating. But if you do as these guys say, you will work out the problem.
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joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Those are for the "sport" version. That has an oil-to-water cooler between the oil filter and the oil filter adapter. You need the non-sport version, 1W4Z-8286-DA.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
"- Engine Cooling
The cooling system components include:
- block heater (optional)
- cylinder head temperature sensor
- fan blade, fan motor and fan shroud assembly
- radiator
- pressure relief cap
- degas bottle
- radiator draincock
- water pump
- oil cooler (optional)
- water thermostat
The water thermostat:
- controls the engine coolant temperature.
- allows quicker engine warm-up.
The degas bottle:
- provides a location for system fill.
- contains coolant expansion and system pressurization.
- provides air separation during operation.
- replenishes the engine coolant to the system.
The fan blade draws air through the radiator to help cool the engine coolant.
The fan motor:
- operates only when the engine is running.
- will not operate when the engine is off.
The Engine Coolant flows:
- from the lower radiator hose to the water pump.
- from the water pump to the engine block and the cylinder heads.
An open water thermostat allows the engine coolant to flow to the radiator.
Unsatisfactory coolant materials:
- Alcohol-type antifreeze does not provide adequate water pump lubrication.
- has lower boiling point
- reduced antifreeze protection
- Alkaline brine solutions will cause serious engine cooling system damage.
The Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor provides a signal to the temperature gauge.
- will invoke Fail-Safe cooling.
The optional Block Heater:
- electrical heating element is installed in the block cooling jacket.
- uses a standard 110V (220V in Europe) electrical supply
- keeps the engine coolant warm during cold weather.
The Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump (3.9L only):
- provides heater coolant flow boost at low RPM's.
- has a secondary function of providing engine-off cooling.
The Dual Coolant Control Valve:
- is controlled by the DATC module (Dual Automatic Temperature Control).
- provides individual front occupant temperature control.
- Coolant Flow 3.9L
All Plastic cooling system parts should be replaced all at once !!!
~ listing only the major plastic cooling system parts which should be focused on.
# 2 - XW4Z-8260-BA - Upper Radiator Hose
# 3 - XW4Z-8A520-AF - Coolant Outlet Pipe
# 12 - 5W4Z-8A080-AA - Degas Bottle
# 15 - XW4Z-8592-AA - Thermostat Housing << see note here
# 19 - 1W4Z-8286-CA - Lower Radiator Hose (with Oil Cooler)
# 19 - 1W4Z-8286-DA - Lower Radiator Hose (without Oil Cooler)
Items listed below, should really be replaced at the same time when completing the cooling system rebuild. They age and deteriorate at the same rate as the rest of the system. They may be good now but tend to go around the same time the other plastics begin to fail. While rebuilding the cooling system, lines will be off and coolant out anyhow, so the timing is now."
All quoted from RIGSLS
TooManyToys
Well-Known LVC Member
As an original owner of two LS 3.9L, one 2001 then replaced with 2003, all plastic needs to be replaced about every 100k or 10 years. And that includes the radiator. YMMV. I've got a thread here somewhere long ago.
I've had an overheat a few times, typically always due to low coolant from leaks not expected. But more so from not getting ALL the air out during bleeding, and I'm an ASE Master tech with decades of working on cars.
My method at this point is to to start with the nose pointing up (my driveway), filling through the top engine cap. It takes some time to slowly do this. When you think you are done, take a drive around the block with the degas bottle cap loose. A short block. Lockdown the cap and use the hose bleeder at the degas on level ground.
Go back to nose up and slowly release the cap see if there is space (there will be). Refill. Another round of slow fill at the engine nose. Another round the short block and another hose bleed.
I've had to do this several times. I've just found this vehicle to be the devil when it comes to getting all the air out.
It's not the thermostat, its not the water pump. I have both sitting on my shelf as that is what I originally thought it was coming to and was ready for it.
I've had an overheat a few times, typically always due to low coolant from leaks not expected. But more so from not getting ALL the air out during bleeding, and I'm an ASE Master tech with decades of working on cars.
My method at this point is to to start with the nose pointing up (my driveway), filling through the top engine cap. It takes some time to slowly do this. When you think you are done, take a drive around the block with the degas bottle cap loose. A short block. Lockdown the cap and use the hose bleeder at the degas on level ground.
Go back to nose up and slowly release the cap see if there is space (there will be). Refill. Another round of slow fill at the engine nose. Another round the short block and another hose bleed.
I've had to do this several times. I've just found this vehicle to be the devil when it comes to getting all the air out.
It's not the thermostat, its not the water pump. I have both sitting on my shelf as that is what I originally thought it was coming to and was ready for it.
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joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
3.9 (V8) or 3.0 (V6)?
Try noise down next time. You can do it in one sitting then (no driving around and trying again). You want the degas bottle to be at the highest point.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It's possible, and not an uncommon problem on the 1st gen. There are a number of trouble shooting threads on here.
Does your AC work?
If so, turn the compressor off or the whole system off. Let the engine cool down.
Start the car. Note the fan speed. Turn the AC compressor on. The fan should speed up very noticeably. Also, when you are nearly overheating, the fan should get very loud.