Why is my fan coming on? 2005 Lincoln LS V8

The aftermarket one didn't come with a cap so it was retained. Water outlet is OEM, down tube is OEM, thermostat housing and thermostat came together, non oem
 
Not sure if it matters or not but the left hose is a heck of a lot hotter than the right even after reaching operating temperature for about 15 minutes. I tried to do the full bleed procedure one last time, no dice. Ordering the parts now for thermostat and such.
 
Left/right hose is not clear enough.
Sides should always be given as if you are sitting in the driver's seat, not as if in front of the car facing it.
If you are talking about the upper and lower radiator hoses, then the upper is on the right (passenger's side) and the lower is on the left (driver's side). These are the two biggest hoses on the car. The upper will be pretty hot once the thermostat starts to open. It should be around 200 F. It is the hot water from the engine going to the radiator to be cooled down. The lower hose carries the coolant that the radiator has cooled down back to the engine. It should be much cooler. That is how the engine is cooled.
 
Sorry for not being clear. The driver side hose was a lot cooler than the passenger side. According to your description the upper radiator hose was hot way before 170 degrees.
 
Hot coolant is coming out of the engine into the upper radiator hose where it kinda gets backed up waiting for the thermostat to start opening(190 degrees) so it will get hot. Let the car run until temp gets to 220 then turn the car off. Check the temp of the lower radiator hose by reaching underneath the car. If that hose is cool after a temp of 220 then the thermostat isn't opening as it should.

Also, the 2 caps(engine fill, degas bottle). I would definitely order the degas bottle cap. It is the first mechanical test mentioned in the workshop manual and I think plays a larger role in regulation than the engine fill cap. The engine fill cap isn't even mentioned so I have my doubts that a bad engine fill would cause the car to overheat.

You can get OEM for under $7 on Rockauto.

MOTORCRAFT RS527 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
lbs: 16; Threaded
 
Bad engine fill cap will cause problems if it is leaking. I've had one to fail.
The thermostat is before the radiator hose, so hot coolant doesn't "kinda gets backed up" in the hose. It waits in the engine, behind the thermostat, not in front of it.
The lower hose will always be "cool" if the radiator has good, cool airflow. If the upper hose remained cool, that would mean that the thermostat wasn't opening.

There have been reports of Rockauto sending cheaper brand parts in Ford (or whatever brand you ordered) boxes.
 
OK, sounds like it's opening properly then. I've already ordered the parts. I'll update everyone when I get it installed. Probably won't see it till next week ordering this late in the week.
 
The fan is only coming on when I'm sitting still and I don't have the heat on. If I cut the heat on then the fan goes off. And also I can tell that the fan is not full speed.

Are you from Clayton, MI... or a southern state with a city named Clayton. I ask.. because if you are hearing your cooling fan run in a Northern climate this time of year... you are still sucking air into the cooling system. If a southern state with 80 degree temps,,, fan running at low speed could be considered normal.
 
since steam reaches temps much greater than 220 degrees it damages the composite material which isnt rated to handle such extremes. ...

I hope we don't have another Don here. Steam's not good. It causes extreme hot spots in the engine, and it's not nearly as good as water at moving heat. Still, it's not the cause of damage to the plastic. The heat cycles and the coolant "rot" (for want of a better word) the plastic over time. It degrades over time. This is true even with no overheating at all. (Overheating will make it fail a little faster, though.) Most of the plastic mostly degrades at the same rate. That's why we say to replace it all at once. You replace one failed part and allow the system to build pressure again. Now, the next weakest part will fail, either right away, or a week or two later. I really don't see steam as a factor. Steam that is generated usually condenses back into water pretty quickly since it is mixed with coolant. Even if it doesn't, it doesn't transfer a lot of heat to the plastic. (Yes, it's hotter than the coolant, but it doesn't have nearly the thermal mass of the coolant.)
Anyway, I was going to let all this go, since the theory still led you to the right solution, but if you are going to be wrong and be a jerk about it...
 
Thank you Joe and as always they simply don't read and learn very well.Don-wannabes' at best.

Read & Learn kids. ... heed the warnings and valuable experiences of those before you.


Lester,
don't assume you know it all because you've been tooling since twelve and in your other informative post in that 22" wheel thread, the correct answer was MAX 9.5 width in the rear of an LS with no rubbing if done right. Not MAX 8" as you promptly attempted to educate others. You would have known this had you read the wheels 101 thread in the stickies of knowledge.

Lastly, keep calling me names .... you're pissing on the wrong tree Bud .... plenty of room at Don's house. ... Read & Learn, be open to the valuable shared information provided by others.
 
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Lester, I'm very happy for both you and your father and his tools. Rather irrelevant but whatever.

With respect to that other wheel width thread, yes there was some mockery with respect to a 22" wheel set up. That was not the point, more so where you provided invalid information as to the maximum rim width, which I pointed out to you is not in fact 8 but rather 9.5 in the rear. Plenty of guys before you have fitted staggered wheels and once again, you don't read, had you done so, you would have known this information. No sense repeating this to you over and over again. You don't read very well and not willing to learn is the bottom line.

Your DORMAN bottle .... had you done some reading on this forum, which you clearly do not do, you would have learned that the DORMAN bottle, you purchased was crap to begin with. It's all over this forum but you failed to acknowledge this because you do not read the valuable information provided by those before you.

Steam was also not the culprit of its failure, but once again, you would not have known this either due to your lack reading of the already clearly provided information on this forum.

Troll? ... ok, I am very positive i requested of you to refrain from any further name calling. I get the part now where you don't read and comprehend very well but it has to stop now. Surely you must be capable of acting appropriate in conversation with others. Perhaps refer to your father for advice, I don't know.

As far as you providing valid correctly expressed information and challanging me on such, I can only suggest you take the time and do some observing on this forum. There are many key members here that provide valuable correct information and assistance to others on a daily basis and yes I do consider myself one of those individuals despite your lack of acknowledgement.


Now ... STEAM, is a by product of an already failing cooling system! Steam is NOT the root cause of our failing LS 90% plastic cooling system. There is no steam involved in a correctly functioning closed loop cooling system. It's already been explained to you what the problem with this plastic breakdown process is but your not willing to except this nor comprehend it, so it's really of no use.

Please do take note of the fact that your invalid theory of steam being the main and only reasons these plastics deteriorate will be supressed going forth.

Should you choose to continue similar as Don and Jrand did, a suggestion would be tabled to have you removed. Simple as that.

I once again ask that you refrain from the name calling and be open to learning from others. Particularly from a very valuable member who is an engineer and provides all with very helpful advice.

Good luck and please do read and learn.
 
Your a fucking idiot !!!

Where did you read that I said I was an Engineer? What level education is it you achieved? You don't read very well, do ya?

Tool designer? Who gives a rats ass?
Steam was the subject you wanted to discuss.

You're done here!

EDIT ----
I just had a chance to read the rest of your ramblings and my God kid, your all over the map, I understand what I'm dealing with here now. You might want to open a window in your room and allow some fresh air in.

There is something very dramatically wrong with you!
 
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This conversation is done, your not capable of staying on subject and clearly misinformed. You're also very rude, ignorant and not directly in front of me!

It's no sense ...
 
i didnt want to discuss anything i simply helped, which you didnt like.
go stroke your ego off already

please dont call names.

Lestesian, keep it civil. You discuss. Not name call. You are new here. You show respect. You get it in return. You don't. You will get attitude. Am I clear?
 
Let the car run for about 20 min and the highest it reached was 194. I would say it's OK now.
 
Let the car run for about 20 min and the highest it reached was 194. I would say it's OK now.

It could be. A tougher test is to get it fully warmed up and then find the steepest and longest hill that you can and drive up it.
 
Sounds like good news! Was there anything noticeably different or wrong with the aftermarket housing or t-stat?
 
Done a road test. It Hung around 203 most of the time. Nothing seemed odd about the off brand thermostat housing at all to me. I can say it wasn't fun putting the thermostat in the housing (oem parts).
 
As long as there is an LS section of LVC there will be those who come here and ask for help with an overheating LS. But they really want their preconceived notions validated and get 'shirty' when they're told they have more work to do. After attempting to set them straight, the only thing to do is to shrug and move on. I believe such to be the case here.

KS
 
i believe it was Full retarded who called me a fucking idiot. so there is a double standard here?? only the vets can curse at people??

I warned you once. Consider this your last warning. You want to talk "double standard". I WILL show you "double standard". Keep it civil or ELSE.
 
thers respec to be had around here?? the guy who asked about 22's sure as hell didnt get any repsect!!

i tried to only help, and got no repsect, you are all disrespetful

Because you are new here. I will explain. There are certain things people will receive crap about. Tacky or silly mods. Stick on fender vents. You will receive crap for. Oversized wheels, you will receive crap for. But at the same time. Bad advice, you will receive crap for. The guy with the 22s was given helpful advice. The longer you are here. The more you will understand. You want to talk respect. You can earn it. Give good sound advice. Or be an innovator. You come off to Some of the more established members as a disrespectful member. You will be treated disrespectfully. Now, you can either take my advice. Act respectfully. Or you won't. Then you will catch crap from pretty much every member here or you will just be dismissed. It's up to you.

If you think I am giving you attitude, I am not. I am giving sound advice. You can take it or leave it. It's up to you. I am trying to make this easy on you and me both. I don't want to gave "babysit" and topics you are posting in.
 
i dont just tool buddy, and i was taught by a tool designer who now teaches at space x, my father.

So you want to be give credit for your fathers accomplishments. Wow. Dumbest thing ever. I guess by using your thinking and rational. If a guy is a hall of famer or an awarding winning anything, his child automatically are..... Okay.
 

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