wheel speed sensor

devunn

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I have a 2001 Lincoln LS V8. My traction control and abs lights are on and im pretty sure its probably a sensor. I tried to clean them today but couldn't figure out how to get them off. Anyone done it before and can tell me how? Do I have to take the brake calipers and rotors off to get the sensor off? Would mass air flow sensor cleaner be good to use or should I just wipe them down well? Thanks for any information. Inspection is coming up and I need to get these lights off.
 
Its pretty simple and you only need to take of the wheel and inside fender cover on the fronts. There is a clip on the front you will need to take off then just slide it out. Rears are easier, which all you need to do is unscrew it from its base. MAF or other electric cleaner should work to clean it.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=41336
 
Its pretty simple and you only need to take of the wheel and inside fender cover on the fronts. There is a clip on the front you will need to take off then just slide it out. Rears are easier, which all you need to do is unscrew it from its base. MAF or other electric cleaner should work to clean it.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=41336

Thanks for the reply I really appreciate it. I tried to take the sensor ring off to clean it but there is no star shaped screw on my sensor so I'm confused on how to remove it from the hub? I brought my car to a local mechanic and he hooked up his scanner which said that the front right speed sensor wasn't giving a reading. I'd really like to try and clean the sensor itself and see if that solves the problem before replacing the whole hub assembly.
 
The sensor ring is a part of the hub assembly, and is not an individually serviceable part. It's also unlikely to be the problem; you're looking for the Wheel Speed Sensor, which is found on the back side of the steering knuckle (you can't miss it; it's near the hub and has a cable running to it). That's what detects the movement of the sensor ring and sends a signal back to the PCM.

The diagram I have is for a 2nd Gen LS ('04), so it may be different than your 1st Gen, but it looks like there's just a clip that holds the sensor in place. Pull that out, and the sensor should pull straight out.
 
Okay thanks. I cleaned the sensor then and it didnt fix to problem so I guess I have to replace it. Is there any way to test the sensor to see if its operating correctly? Maybe with a multimeter to test voltage? I tried and was able to get 12v at the connector before the speed sensor but couldn't find any leads or anything on the sensor itself.
 
Okay thanks. I cleaned the sensor then and it didnt fix to problem so I guess I have to replace it. Is there any way to test the sensor to see if its operating correctly? Maybe with a multimeter to test voltage? I tried and was able to get 12v at the connector before the speed sensor but couldn't find any leads or anything on the sensor itself.

How have you established that it is a particular wheel speed sensor? Do you have the DTCs from the ABS system? That would help to determine exactly what you need to test for.

A voltage measurement from the sensor won't tell you if it's working or not. Connecting an oscilloscope and looking for a square wave who's frequency is in proportion to the wheel speed would help. By itself, that wouldn't say if the issue was the sensor or the ABS module.
 
I brought the car to my mechanic and he hooked up his scanner. It said the right front speed sensor wasn't giving a reading. He said that meant the sensor was bad and needed to be replaced but his solution was to replace the hub assembly. Thats why I thought I had to clean the sensor ring. I guess if i had a scanner i could try swapping the left/right sensors and see if the scanner would then say that the left front sensor wasn't responding.. but I dont have one.
 
Im fairly certain it is the wheel bearing that's gone... which will cause the wheel speed sensor to get erratic readings.

autozone/advance have them... pretty simple install.
 
Since you have a trouble code for a specific wheel, it is probably that wheel's sensor. (It could be the wiring or the ABS module, but of the three the sensor is the most likely to fail.)
2000sport is certainly right that a bad wheel bearing can lead to failure of that wheel's sensor.
 
the wheel speed sensor/hub/bearing assembly is about $150 from Autozone.

bolts on with 4 bolts to the backside of the steering knuckle.

IIRC they were to be torqued to 150lb/ft
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'll head over to autozone and pick up a hub assembly today and see if that solves the issue. I hope it does because I have to pass inspection.
 
Let us know how it goes!

this actually happened to me during last winter... so not having a functioning ABS system sucked.

And the whole traction control engaging while on the highway (no snow) also sucked.
 
Let us know how it goes!

this actually happened to me during last winter... so not having a functioning ABS system sucked.

And the whole traction control engaging while on the highway (no snow) also sucked.

Finally fixed the problem.. I replaced the hub assembly today and the ABS light finally went off. I'm not sure if the sensor or the wheel bearing were the problem though. Once I got the rotor off I noticed there was a rusty whole about the size of a gold dollar on the back of it. I wonder if thats what caused the ABS and traction control lights to go on. I guess never buy rotors from autozone because these rotors are only about 2 years old and have never been turned or anything. Theres no reason for there to be a whole in it. I need to go argue with the store manager at autozone about replacing the rotor for free because the warranty just expired on it a month ago.
 
good that you solved the problem!

seems like the $45 wheel sensor would have made a good first move before the $150 bearing assembly... no?
 
good that you solved the problem!

seems like the $45 wheel sensor would have made a good first move before the $150 bearing assembly... no?


Yeah probably so but I believe the wheel bearing was starting to go bad as well because on turns I started hearing a loud whirring sound which is now also gone. The hub assembly was only $115 though which isnt too bad. I wasn't planning on buying a new rotor though, but thats was only $55 and I'm gonna try and get autozone to refund it due to the defective rotor they sold me before. Next step is to replace the clockspring, inner tie rods, and figure out how to remove the excessivley stripped caliper bolt and replace it. It never ends.
 
Congrats :)

After finally getting all the ball joints and upper/lower control arms in, I am now throwing a Lean bank 2 code!!!

it really does never end.

gotta do inner/outer tie rod ends as well.
 
At 9 years old (how many miles?) the bearing and suspension items wearing arent anything unusual. Still a very solid car (The LS) overall. I'm at 127k on my 2002 V8 LSE(had since new) and am still extremely pleased at how this car is holding up and how well built it is. I planned to sell it for something else this year, but it's in such excellent condition, I'm going to continue paying myself the old car payment that I used to pay the Bank (been doing this for 2.5 years now) into my savings account for hopefully two more years..then pay all cash for something else. Not sure what yet, but whatever it is wont be brand new. New cars are terrible "investments". 2-3 years old with factory warranty left is really the way to go
 
I fully understand that suspension components need to be replaced...

Im the one that keeps reminding my fiance of the 115,700 miles that are on the car, and that this is all reg maintenance :)

its just the timing of each failure that sucks.

For what it's worth, her 2008 scion tC already needs new ball joints @ 39,000 miles.

Props to Toyota on that one.
 
At 9 years old (how many miles?) the bearing and suspension items wearing arent anything unusual. Still a very solid car (The LS) overall. I'm at 127k on my 2002 V8 LSE(had since new) and am still extremely pleased at how this car is holding up and how well built it is. I planned to sell it for something else this year, but it's in such excellent condition, I'm going to continue paying myself the old car payment that I used to pay the Bank (been doing this for 2.5 years now) into my savings account for hopefully two more years..then pay all cash for something else. Not sure what yet, but whatever it is wont be brand new. New cars are terrible "investments". 2-3 years old with factory warranty left is really the way to go

I'm at about 124k miles.. Don't get me wrong, I love my LS. It's just an expensive car and the problems seem to be never ending. I've replaced lower control arms, balljoints, all 8 coils, front rotors, front hub assembly, outer tie rods, and I still have to replace the inner tie rods, and the clockspring. Not to mention stupid little things have started breaking that I don't think should be breaking such as the center control console (you know the status, reset, etc buttons?) and the reflectors on the front doors. I love how the car looks and how it used to drive but I do not agree that it is well built.
 
Mine is a 2002 with an 08/2002 build date. I purchased her with about 8 miles on the odometer. My clockspring went out as well about 2 years ago, but an easy replacement myself, so I saved a lot in labor. My alternator went out, but the labor at Pep Boys was $95. I did pay about $120 for the part from AutoZone. I replaced all 8 coils myself at a cost of $140 from Global on Ebay. About 2 years ago. No balljoint or control arm issues or tie rod issues yet. Steering still very tight. I did change all of my shocks when I put in the Eibachs. That was a pricey project but it was not required..just something I wanted to do. Front sway bar bushings got creaky, replaced those myself for under $50 with the energy suspension poly's. I've replaced all of my rotors at some point during my reguarly scheduled brake jobs that I do myself. My status buttons also broke, but they are one of the few things easily fixed with adhesive. And as long as you are gentle with the buttons, the adhesive fix lasts for years. (did mine 3 years ago). My interior still looks like new. The door panels have zero wear, my interior is holding up great, no weird wear on the shift knob/steering wheel. dash still looks close to new, and the paint/clearcoat still in top shape, but thats due to a constant coat of wax and garaged day/night for the first 6 years of it's life. Engine and transmission run flawlessly. (that tranny still isnt the most responsive thing in the world, but hey, it's never leaked or needed a repair). did have the cracked degas bottle issue, which I replaced myself. My door lights/reflectors are fine.

That's about it. I still say not bad for almost 8 years and 127k miles. Especially when compared to my BMW and it's costs.
 
I'm starting to think I may need to replace one of my hub assemblys. My traction control light has been one for awhile. It doesn't come on all the time and there is no abs light. I changed the right front speed sensor last November (scanner pointed to that wheel) and all was fine for a few weeks, then the traction light came on again, I thought it was the passenger side sensor. I changed that a few weeks ago but the traction control light still comes on. (Mornings mostly after sitting all night)

Does the abs light have to come to point to a hub assembly?
 
I'm starting to think I may need to replace one of my hub assemblys. My traction control light has been one for awhile. It doesn't come on all the time and there is no abs light. I changed the right front speed sensor last November (scanner pointed to that wheel) and all was fine for a few weeks, then the traction light came on again, I thought it was the passenger side sensor. I changed that a few weeks ago but the traction control light still comes on. (Mornings mostly after sitting all night)

Does the abs light have to come to point to a hub assembly?

If you are talking about the traction light being on steady, then I doubt that it is a hub (since the ABS light is not on). If the traction light is flashing all the time, then maybe it is one of the rear wheel sensors.

Is it really a traction light, or do you have advance Trac? If it is advance Trac, then either your steering wheel angle sensor is bad or your Yaw rate sensor. You need a Ford specific code scanner to find out which. You will also need that to run the calibrate procedure on the replacement part.
 
If you are talking about the traction light being on steady, then I doubt that it is a hub (since the ABS light is not on). If the traction light is flashing all the time, then maybe it is one of the rear wheel sensors.

Is it really a traction light, or do you have advance Trac? If it is advance Trac, then either your steering wheel angle sensor is bad or your Yaw rate sensor. You need a Ford specific code scanner to find out which. You will also need that to run the calibrate procedure on the replacement part.

Thanks for the reply.

Its the AdvanceTrac light that is on. It doesn't come on all the time and the AdvanceTrac feature still works.

When I replaced the right front sensor, the AdvanceTrac light kept flashing. I took it to the dealer and they calibrated the wheel angle sensor. But it came back on a few weeks later, not flashing. They told me that if it came on again they would replace the module. I didn't go back to them.
 
checking the sensor

(needing an O-scope for checking the sensor?) A square wave is an on off, unles there is an off set, but would still be obvious. could u use still use a multimeter, jack it up and spin the wheel?
 
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(needing an O-scope for checking the sensor?) A square wave is an on off, unles there is an off set, but would still be obvious. could u use still use a multimeter, jack it up and spin the wheel?

You can, but it won't tell you much. Having a signal that is changing as the wheel turns is not the same as have a clear signal that is correctly pulsing as the wheel turns. On the plus side, there are some cheap oscilloscopes out there now.
 

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