Whats the scoop on the sway bar redesign?

grizzlyls

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So have been hunting parts, and I have occasionally bumped into a 'redesign of the sway bar'. Always with the recommendation to change.

My gen 1 was built March 2001 so likely it is a candidate, it did receive the sport version though. I am thinking that if this is another faulty design spot, I may as well have the Mech put it in when he has it on the rack in December. I do get some 'clunks' on the front suspension, associated with speed bumps. Its odd though, times it will clunk, and others, same bump, same speed/angle no clunks.

Lincoln inspection so no worries on suspension yet, just to keep eye on due to age. No rust on my car like I have seen on some of these pics of suspensions.
 
It seems like the end links wear out sooner than the sway bar bushings. Those are easy and cheap to change out. I'd try that first. Also, while you have the end links disconnected, you can check for play in the sway bar bushings.
 
The tranny mech I asked said the bushings were looking good. We were inspecting the leaks and the sources then. So I dont think I need that, just wondering if there was a flaw in the design, I might as well hit it while its in service and apart. Always looking to save a buck/time when its in for an issue.

What I get from your post joe is maybe not to worry about the redesign issue, not something that was drastic.
 
The sway bar can be described as a bar made of 'spring' steel setting crosswise of the car in the area of the suspension. It must fit in the available space so it is not entirely straight, having an offset section in the middle. No 're-design' is likely except something such as bar diameter. There are two diameters available---'sport' and 'non-sport'.

Unless it's broken---(unlikely)--- a replacement would only be for the purpose of getting a sport-diameter bar if you don't now have one. End-links and bushings DO wear out.

KS
 
There's little to no reason to replace the sway bar, unless it is a Gen 2. The bushings are another story. If you're hearing clunks there's a good chance the bushings need replacing.

Now there are two types of sway bars (besides 2 different diameters.) The Gen 1 type which is almost certainly what you have, has raised 'stops' near both ends where the bushings reside. The stops butt up against the bushings to keep the sway bar in place laterally. The redesigned bar has no stops but the bushings are permanently attached and the bushings perform the lateral stop role.

Ford no longer sells the Gen 1 type so if you replace the bar you must replace with a Gen 2. Some people have redesigned the Gen2 sway bar by cutting the bushings off and then installing some bushings obtained from another source (Energy Suspensions for example) You then must buy and install some sort of collar to perform the lateral movement control function. Search for a post by DeaconBlue for more information on this method.

If u have the Gen 1 bar and you don't want to spend somewhere between $100 and $200 for a new sway bar, you need to find a source for the correct bushing. Here is the part number for that, purchased thru FCPEuro:

Jaguar Sway Bar Mount Front(S-Type XJ8 XK)- Rein XR819697 Qty2 $21.58 + about $11.00 shipping

A good time to replace these bushings or the bar IS when other stuff is pulled out. Your mechanic will still be swearing at Lincoln, Ford and perhaps you because the job is difficult.

You should jack up the front and determine which type of bar you have beforehand cause the shipping for either part will take a week or more.

Good Luck.
 
Thanks Heyjewel, thats what I was looking for. Now I understand the differences. This seems like one of those times that applies if it aint broke, dont fix it. I will have the mech doing the timing chains do a lookover on the front suspension while its up, just to be safe. Hopefully Lincoln has been honest with me that there isnt a pressing issue down there.
 
Some "pressing issues" can be very difficult to detect without removing parts.
 
A well known Lincoln engineer said there is no way to tell the quality (worn or not) of the bushings visually. They fail out of sight in the area next to the bar.
 
Only on one occasion did they need to send in a search and rescue party. Said they saw me last sway at the bar. Since then I've been redesigned of course. The Captain showed me how to utilize the lateral movement control function.
 
As Joe said, the end links have to be disconnected on both sides before you can honestly check a Gen 1 bar's bushings. Once the links are free, the bar is either quiet and only rotates inside the bushings on axis, or they are sloppy and there is nothing keeping the bar aligned concentrically. It's an easy test. Your bushings are most likely toast, since they had a life expectancy of 2 years or less of normal miles driven. I changed my bar over to the new style 30 mm permanent bushing style early on and it is still quiet at 296K miles.
 
Your bushings are most likely toast, since they had a life expectancy of 2 years or less of normal miles driven.

Really? Thats an awful short time, I am sure that the bar and bushings is original, Grandma took care of the car, but beyond norm maintenance the Pre world war II Gen learned she wouldnt tackle poor design errors on it unless Lincoln covered it.

<Sigh> looks like I am seeing the next project after the timing chains.
 
You can have someone shake the car side to side, pushing from the drivers door, and put your hand on the sway bar. If you can feel any clunking in the sway bar (as long as the links are good) the bushings are worn and need replaced
 
There are threads on this site from a few years back,,, where people were complaing of a rattle from Gen I IIRC... and the issue was the sway bar bushings. They figured out the appropriate greaseable urethane bushings from Energy Suspension. Sorry,,, cant't give you a link... been too long. However... as already suggested,,, I would first look at the sway bar end links. That is what cured my rattle. The LS uses a link not much different form an Escape... which is known to fail due to the non-greasable plactic insert. Replace sway bar links with appropriate greaseable MOOG version.

If all else fails... last I checked,,, the revised sway bar from the gen 2 LS was still available for roughly $125 from the dealer. The problem as described in the original threads from year past... is that it was a PITA to replace,,, but so were just the sway bar bushings to make it greaseable.
 
There's little to no reason to replace the sway bar, unless it is a Gen 2. The bushings are another story. If you're hearing clunks there's a good chance the bushings need replacing.

Now there are two types of sway bars (besides 2 different diameters.) The Gen 1 type which is almost certainly what you have, has raised 'stops' near both ends where the bushings reside. The stops butt up against the bushings to keep the sway bar in place laterally. The redesigned bar has no stops but the bushings are permanently attached and the bushings perform the lateral stop role.

Ford no longer sells the Gen 1 type so if you replace the bar you must replace with a Gen 2. Some people have redesigned the Gen2 sway bar by cutting the bushings off and then installing some bushings obtained from another source (Energy Suspensions for example) You then must buy and install some sort of collar to perform the lateral movement control function. Search for a post by DeaconBlue for more information on this method.

If u have the Gen 1 bar and you don't want to spend somewhere between $100 and $200 for a new sway bar, you need to find a source for the correct bushing. Here is the part number for that, purchased thru FCPEuro:

Jaguar Sway Bar Mount Front(S-Type XJ8 XK)- Rein XR819697 Qty2 $21.58 + about $11.00 shipping

A good time to replace these bushings or the bar IS when other stuff is pulled out. Your mechanic will still be swearing at Lincoln, Ford and perhaps you because the job is difficult.

You should jack up the front and determine which type of bar you have beforehand cause the shipping for either part will take a week or more.

Good Luck.

am looking for some help on swaybar bushings for non-sport gen 1. is this rein number applicable? have purchased and installed energy suspension bushings, but no 'collars'. still the 'clunks'. have searched for post by deaconblue to no avail. would like to resolve this issue for the wife. 2000 lsv8 non-sport. thanx in advance.
 
The Rein replacement bushings is for 30mm diameter Sport 1st gen sway bar only.

Double check your front stabilizer end links
 
will do. they're moog w/less than 3k miles, though. they were put on when the e/s bushings went on.
 
You may want to go beyond looking at the sway bar at this point,,, if the clunk still exists. Lower ball joints most likely next culprit... or upper control arm. Maybe steering rack after that. Rattles and clunks are a "process of elimination" when it comes to the LS. Don't just throw parts at it, (unless money is no object). Get a buddy over,,, and try to duplicate the symptoms while inspecting everything. There is a process to checking ball joints,,, andf it can be tricky.
 
no stranger to balljoints here. rebuilt the front end on both my ford trucks this past year. the superduty was fun. got a little play in the pass side lower joint, but nowhere else I can feel. clunks mostly at low speed and severe steering angles. still searching for a thread about 'collars' for the energy suspension bushings as I can physically move the sway bar about an inch side to side while at rest. it shouldn't be like this. any help finding that thread would be appreciated. thank you.
 
i appreciate that joegr. I guess if I could get that split collar to fit inside the raised portion of the gen 1 sway bar it might work. I'm sorely tempted to wrap the bushing surface w/a coupla thicknesses of friction tape and put the original bushings back in to see if that helps the noises. couldn't be any more far-fetched than a homemade waterpump gasket, huh?
 

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