What size wire

I thought there was more to it, My 5.0 I would swap all the time - same with my old LS1 - but this, looks more.. Complicated. Im guessing I need to remove a bunch of :q:q:q:q to get to the plugs right cause I dont see anything.

drivers side: the plugs are under the cover thats says 32v 4.6l on top of the valve cover..Take out the 2 bolts that hold the cover on. Pull up on each cop and set them aside.Theres a bracket on top of the valve cover that might need to come off (not sure,its been awhile) gently remove the plugs. Re-install new plugs to the correct gap and torque.Install cops, put cover back on

pass side: disconnect the hose and plug on the intake tube. Remove tube w/ a flathead. Remove 2 bolts on the cover and repeat as you did on the drivers side. Should only take 20-30min

And from what i've heard dont use antisieze...

p.s. Its alot easier then doing a ls1 or 5.0
 
drivers side: the plugs are under the cover thats says 32v 4.6l on top of the valve cover..Take out the 2 bolts that hold the cover on. Pull up on each cop and set them aside.Theres a bracket on top of the valve cover that might need to come off (not sure,its been awhile) gently remove the plugs. Re-install new plugs to the correct gap and torque.Install cops, put cover back on

pass side: disconnect the hose and plug on the intake tube. Remove tube w/ a flathead. Remove 2 bolts on the cover and repeat as you did on the drivers side. Should only take 20-30min

And from what i've heard dont use antisieze...

p.s. Its alot easier then doing a ls1 or 5.0[/QUOTE]


Sounds like it is! Greatly appreciate the walkthrough - Im going to tackle it this weekend! Hopefully I dont die.

While I have everyones attention - Granted its 100 degrees here, but my car seems to be running hot. Temp says its fine, but the plastic on the fuse box seesm soft/plyable. The coolant return hose is hot as :q:q:q:q and I can smell a fishy coolant smell when my head is under the hood. I mean, if the thermostat is broken, would it be stuck at normal, or would it go to cold when the car is off, rise, and then stop at normal?
 
drivers side: the plugs are under the cover thats says 32v 4.6l on top of the valve cover..Take out the 2 bolts that hold the cover on. Pull up on each cop and set them aside.Theres a bracket on top of the valve cover that might need to come off (not sure,its been awhile) gently remove the plugs. Re-install new plugs to the correct gap and torque.Install cops, put cover back on

pass side: disconnect the hose and plug on the intake tube. Remove tube w/ a flathead. Remove 2 bolts on the cover and repeat as you did on the drivers side. Should only take 20-30min

And from what i've heard dont use antisieze...

p.s. Its alot easier then doing a ls1 or 5.0[/QUOTE]


Sounds like it is! Greatly appreciate the walkthrough - Im going to tackle it this weekend! Hopefully I dont die.
While I have everyones attention - Granted its 100 degrees here, but my car seems to be running hot. Temp says its fine, but the plastic on the fuse box seesm soft/plyable. The coolant return hose is hot as :q:q:q:q and I can smell a fishy coolant smell when my head is under the hood. I mean, if the thermostat is broken, would it be stuck at normal, or would it go to cold when the car is off, rise, and then stop at normal?


Just be sure not to over tighten them as they are very sensative.

As far as the t-stat goes. if its reading normal or a tad above normal thats fine since its so warm out. Iirc a t-stat can be stuck open or closed..Closed means you'll overheat and open will not let the car get to operating temp..My marquis i believe had a open stat and in the winter it would only get about 1/4 of the way up and the heat would suck.

Also..once you def find the drain i'd drain your battery on purpose and get another (if under warrenty) if you've jumped it a ton of times.
 
Just be sure not to over tighten them as they are very sensative.

As far as the t-stat goes. if its reading normal or a tad above normal thats fine since its so warm out. Iirc a t-stat can be stuck open or closed..Closed means you'll overheat and open will not let the car get to operating temp..My marquis i believe had a open stat and in the winter it would only get about 1/4 of the way up and the heat would suck.

Ok gotcha - so the car is hot, but normal hot --- if the t stat was broken it wouldnt heat up, or it would overheat.. and I would notice.

When my ex's VW (piece of SHIET) would overheat, the AC would suck ass
 
idk..i'm not a genous when it comes to cooling systems.. As long as its at normal on the guage its fine..If its atad above normal on really hot days dont be concerned.
 
I dont know if you saw, but I took out the fuse for the amp/radio and my battery has been fine - so its def one of these. (probably amp)

put that fuse back in and just unplug the amp, ive seen all sorts of accessories stay on and drain the battery, radio, amp, and cd changer, i just dont wanna send you a good amp and then you swap it in if it wasnt the problem at all. i have all the stock components out of mine so whatever you need i got. just go down the line with the fuse in and see what exactly is causing the draw
 
put that fuse back in and just unplug the amp, ive seen all sorts of accessories stay on and drain the battery, radio, amp, and cd changer, i just dont wanna send you a good amp and then you swap it in if it wasnt the problem at all. i have all the stock components out of mine so whatever you need i got. just go down the line with the fuse in and see what exactly is causing the draw

Ohh of course - I'd narrow it down before I came looking for a replacement. Come to think of it, The CD Changer wasnt opening, and after messing with it I had the power problem.... I wonder.. hmmmm - it keeps telling me there are no CD's in it, but I hvae 3 burned ones
 
OMFGWTFBBQ!!!!!!!!

Dude every bit of advice I have given you has been spot fuggin on yet you fuggin refuse to listen!
I told you very specifically that the fuse ONLY feeds power to the AMP and CD changer and then said you prolly want to unplug the CD changer first and then asked if it had problems like not ejecting. Then I said I have seen Sony (our OEM) CD changers get stuck trying to constantly eject.
So what is your CD changer not doing?

Jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeszsssssssssssssssssuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuusssssssssssssssssssss!!
I so understand why Jamie is constantly yelling. :mad:
 
drivers side: the plugs are under the cover thats says 32v 4.6l on top of the valve cover..Take out the 2 bolts that hold the cover on. Pull up on each cop and set them aside.Theres a bracket on top of the valve cover that might need to come off (not sure,its been awhile) gently remove the plugs. Re-install new plugs to the correct gap and torque.Install cops, put cover back on

pass side: disconnect the hose and plug on the intake tube. Remove tube w/ a flathead. Remove 2 bolts on the cover and repeat as you did on the drivers side. Should only take 20-30min

And from what i've heard dont use antisieze...

p.s. Its alot easier then doing a ls1 or 5.0
Wow, I never thought that maybe he didnt know where the plugs were on the motor. Now it makes sense.
 
OMFGWTFBBQ!!!!!!!!

Dude every bit of advice I have given you has been spot fuggin on yet you fuggin refuse to listen!
I told you very specifically that the fuse ONLY feeds power to the AMP and CD changer and then said you prolly want to unplug the CD changer first and then asked if it had problems like not ejecting. Then I said I have seen Sony (our OEM) CD changers get stuck trying to constantly eject.
So what is your CD changer not doing?

Jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeszsssssssssssssssssuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuusssssssssssssssssssss!!
I so understand why Jamie is constantly yelling. :mad:

You are right - but in all honesty - 99% of the time im viewing replies its on my phone, so I scroll and see a quality post like yours, and then 20 posts about my wheels being on backwards so i just disregard the whole convo and move on.

I got to mess with the CD changer later - jsut been so busy moving and dealing with abnoxious realtors and my stressful ass job (im basically a commodity broker..with a commodity thats losing value daily) so Im always wound up and not thinking straight - so forgive me if I forget some of the important stuff u guys tell me
 
Your missing the important stuff a few members have suggested in a few posts, all about the same thing too, hence why I gave up suggesting any more...
 

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