What kinda oil do you use?

Doesn't matter how small they make it. With the large addco swaybars it isn't coming out without dropping the bar. I know that isn't the case on other peoples cars, but it is on this one....we have tried every angle, two different lifts (supported wheels, hanging wheels) it isn't coming out without dropping the bar down.
 
IllinoisMarkVIII said:
Doesn't matter how small they make it. With the large addco swaybars it isn't coming out without dropping the bar. I know that isn't the case on other peoples cars, but it is on this one....we have tried every angle, two different lifts (supported wheels, hanging wheels) it isn't coming out without dropping the bar down.
Click to expand...

Check your motor mounts..they are "settling"..thus the engine is getting lower in the engine compartment.

On my 95 when I got it at 68,000 miles I had no trouble getting the filter out.
AS time went on, it because increasingly hard to get the filter out.

In the end, I was having to put a block under the oilpan and jacking the motor up to the limit of the slack in the motor mounts.

I replaced the motor mounts and it went back to being EASY to get the filter out, with no interference.

hope this helps...
 
XLRVIII said:
THERE is why your car is slower, and gets worse gas mileage then mine does

Put the slippery stuff in there, or be satisfied with being slow
(grins)
Click to expand...

haha! You guys need to get some mods and stop worrying about the 1/4 horsepower you get from varying oil.. :D

Yeah i run Mobile One or Amsoil syn.
 
98CobraStarLSC said:
haha! You guys need to get some mods and stop worrying about the 1/4 horsepower you get from varying oil.. :D

Yeah i run Mobile One or Amsoil syn.
Click to expand...

Trust me, the difference in our ET's did not equate to a 1/4 HP..
(lol)
 
XLRVIII said:
Check your motor mounts..they are "settling"..thus the engine is getting lower in the engine compartment.

On my 95 when I got it at 68,000 miles I had no trouble getting the filter out.
AS time went on, it because increasingly hard to get the filter out.

In the end, I was having to put a block under the oilpan and jacking the motor up to the limit of the slack in the motor mounts.

I replaced the motor mounts and it went back to being EASY to get the filter out, with no interference.

hope this helps...
Click to expand...

Huh. That explains a lot. I swear the filter is easier to change on my 96 than my 95. Now I know why.
 
it was such a slow process, getting harder and harder that it really took me along time to figure it out...
and it wasn't until I replaced a broken motor mount and K member {it was broken too) did all the peices to the puzzle present themselves.
 
I had no problems with the oil filter till we put the 1 5/8 bars on.....filter would have to be 2 inches smaller to fit out now.
 
Right now my car has bargain bin 5w30 with an ARX treatment in the engine... lol... that is what was in it when we raced too!
 
98 lsc

i use gatrol gtx full synthetic, with one quart of lucas synthetic oil stab. and a K&n oil filter.
 
If you have synthetic fluids in your motor, transmission, and rear end it's not uncommon to get 5-10 horsepower (at the flywheel). There have been many tests done that back this up.
 
even if it's less than that..

my school of thought is rather than try to take 100LBS out of the car find 200 places to remove .5 lbs or 400 places to remove .25lbs.

same goes with "finding/making horsepower".

All those little bits add up, keep chipping away at the "small gains" and soon enough you have a large gain.

I've applied this to my 95 mark 8 and people use to claim it was a factory freak...due to it's performance with few mods and due to it's longetivity.

At some point, things like the 160 thermostat and other black majic tricks did pay off in dividends.

People wanted proof about "this and that".. and.. well..

My "results" dont lie....I ran the wrong plugs and the wrong thermostat for hundreds of thousands of miles with ONLY positive results.
"your mileage may vary"..
HAHA
 
I been using royal purple 5w30 with a kn filter since I got mine. Not sure if it helps or whatever, but I feel better about it.
 
munkysex00 said:
i use gatrol gtx full synthetic, with one quart of lucas synthetic oil stab. and a K&n oil filter.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be comfortable with that viscosity in this motor. Is the Castrol 5w30? If so, the Lucas probably makes the oil a 40 or 50 weight.
 
Thinner the better... these motors are very tight tolerance motors. I wouldn't put anything a lick thicker than 5w30 in one.
 
You can all flame me all you want, but i'm in the business and I know oils

AMSOIL is pure snake oil. Say what you want about it, but i wouldn't put that overpriced garbage in my lawnmower. Search for bad stuff about them, you'll find it, very conviently buried amongst the latter search pages. Amsoil themselves admit that the toyota 4 cylinder shouldn't run more that 3k miles even on their product. And they don't warranty their product in that motor

Half of their oils don't meet APA rules for certification, so technically in a new car with an oil related failure, the manufacturer can refuse to honor the warranty. API ratings are used in the decision of motor failures to, count on it.

The main reason to run synthetics is NOT longer drain intervals. Synthetics don't break down like conventional oils. What happens to them is the additive packs break down, reducing the ability of the oil to lubricate properly. Think of it like oil slowly turning to water. Conventional turns to sludge over extended time in the motor, as thats the way its chemically designed. Lubricity (that is a word) is the factor of how well something lubricates. Amsoil recommends changing the filter at 12500 miles, and the oil at 25000. they also recommend an oil analysis halfway to determine the amount of particulate matter the oil is retaining. Add that (another $30 bucks or so) to your overpriced oil and filter, and you aren't saving jack.

Bottom line, conventional oil users, use the cheap :q:q:q:q and change it at 3k miles. Synthetic users, go up to 5k miles. Synthetics are popular to muscles cars because they operate at a slightly lower temperature than conventionals and there will be no sludge. You can argue this stuff with me all day, I've seen the effects of every kind of situation, and quite frankly I laugh at idiots who go super long between changes and pay me bookoo bucks to replace their blown motors, siezed cams, clogged oil ports, etc.:rolleyes:
 
stang99x said:
You can all flame me all you want, but i'm in the business and I know oils

AMSOIL is pure snake oil. Say what you want about it, but i wouldn't put that overpriced garbage in my lawnmower. Search for bad stuff about them, you'll find it, very conviently buried amongst the latter search pages. Amsoil themselves admit that the toyota 4 cylinder shouldn't run more that 3k miles even on their product. And they don't warranty their product in that motor

Half of their oils don't meet APA rules for certification, so technically in a new car with an oil related failure, the manufacturer can refuse to honor the warranty. API ratings are used in the decision of motor failures to, count on it.

The main reason to run synthetics is NOT longer drain intervals. Synthetics don't break down like conventional oils. What happens to them is the additive packs break down, reducing the ability of the oil to lubricate properly. Think of it like oil slowly turning to water. Conventional turns to sludge over extended time in the motor, as thats the way its chemically designed. Lubricity (that is a word) is the factor of how well something lubricates. Amsoil recommends changing the filter at 12500 miles, and the oil at 25000. they also recommend an oil analysis halfway to determine the amount of particulate matter the oil is retaining. Add that (another $30 bucks or so) to your overpriced oil and filter, and you aren't saving jack.

Bottom line, conventional oil users, use the cheap :q:q:q:q and change it at 3k miles. Synthetic users, go up to 5k miles. Synthetics are popular to muscles cars because they operate at a slightly lower temperature than conventionals and there will be no sludge. You can argue this stuff with me all day, I've seen the effects of every kind of situation, and quite frankly I laugh at idiots who go super long between changes and pay me bookoo bucks to replace their blown motors, siezed cams, clogged oil ports, etc.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...


Pretty good points, but these days 5K is fine with conventional/blend, with syn I'm comfortable at 6-8K oci's. Most syns on the market can handle this service easily.

Amsoil a snake oil.... I wouldn't go that far. They do have some questionable business practices(advertising, API certs), but it has been proven to be a good oil. 25-35K intervals? They scare me too much, even with a UOA.

This is the main reason that I prefer Schaeffer's over Amsoil. I can get Schaeffer's for a good price and am very comfortable running it 6-8K miles. Could I go longer with Amsoil? Maybe, but I'm not paying for a UOA. I just want to drive the car. I do agree however that Amsoil is overpriced, 30-50 more per case than the Schaeffer's I get.

I'm sure there's a lot of people that go way too far on oil, but 3K on dino, 5K on syn is kind of wasteful, unless driving is severe service. Schaeffer's plus ARX maintenance dose should keep my MarkVIII going for a long time.
 
I can't wait to be done with my full ARX treatment.... I've got my filters saved, gonna cut them open when I get some more time.

I really would like to know what the BEST oil is....
 
I could go further on the amsoil thing, as i have done it on the f150 forums for hundreds of post, with evidence yet people still claim its wonder oil. Truth about it is, amsoil didn't even design it....the US government did. Amsoil took their formula, added a couple things and labeled it their own. If you wanna know more about that, we can delve into it later. For now, i'll give you this to read:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/uploads/docs/TSB/English/94-1R1.pdf
 
stang99x said:
I could go further on the amsoil thing, as i have done it on the f150 forums for hundreds of post, with evidence yet people still claim its wonder oil. Truth about it is, amsoil didn't even design it....the US government did. Amsoil took their formula, added a couple things and labeled it their own. If you wanna know more about that, we can delve into it later. For now, i'll give you this to read:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/uploads/docs/TSB/English/94-1R1.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I know what severe constitutes vs. normal, and the article is right for most people.

In true severe conditions, definately 3K dino, 5K syn, IMO. I drive about 70% highway, so I'm comfortable with longer OCI's.

I would rather not go into the Amsoil thing, there's a ton of info and opinions on the subject. For me, price is the deterrant. However, I do think the gear and tranny oils are great products.
 
kustomizingkid said:
I can't wait to be done with my full ARX treatment.... I've got my filters saved, gonna cut them open when I get some more time.

I really would like to know what the BEST oil is....
Click to expand...

Post pics of the filter, should be good stuff. ARX is one of the few products that I have used, that actually does what it claims.

Best oil.......not existent, IMO. It's all about keeping up on the maintenance and retaining a reasonable OCI.
 
ARX kicks ass! It took a lot of gunk out of my A4's engine, but it died a sad, hydrolocked death.
 
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