for the record, I am a authorized DEI installer.
good news, you can just run aux channels 1 & 2 to the same wires that you need to tap lock and unlock and factory alarm disarm wires into and then program the two aux channels to do timed output at about 20- 25 seconds the correct lock and unlock wired are at the DDM inside the drivers door
no add ons needed
basically you just tie AUX channel 1 (for windows up) and the lock wires together at the brain and use diodes to isolate the wires from each other, then run it into the door and tap into the cars lock wire at the DDM. then tie AUX 2, the unlock wire, and factory alarm disarm wire together at the brain using diodes to isolate the wires from each other and run that one wire into the drivers door and connect it to the cars unlock wire. presto all done, you can even program the system to have comfort closure turned on and every time you lock the car it will roll up any windows that are down, it will also close the sun roof only if it is opened (not if it is vented)
with a second gen you will also need a extra relay for second accessory (this was not needed for 1st gens) with out this it will set of a check engine light every third time the car is remote started.
you can also use AUX three to pop the gas tank open, but you will need an extra relay for this, you dont need a relay to pop the trunk open even though the switches are right next to each other.
the installer will have to tap into a injector wire for Tach, the normal tach wire will not work for fords, they will start and run for a minute or two then shut off.
as long as it is a 2010 model alarm, you can switch, the door triggers to normal closed (this is a problem with older systems, even with the same model number)
you will also have to use a diode to isolate the factory hood pin for it to work properly
i believe you also need a relay for rear window defrost to work, that wire is in the trunk at the REM as well as the wire for the trunk sensor (thats actually at the trunk light)
you really need to talk to the installer and make sure that he has done some of these LS's or Jag's as they are a lot more difficult that most other cars, for instance if they dont know what diode isolating means, just walk away, this car needed more diodes than a whole weeks worth of RS/alarms normally do
that is all that i can think of right now, if something else comes to mind i'll update the post.
