VAPS Actuator Assembly Replacement

J

jmtiseo

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Hey there gang. As mentioned in another thread I broke the clip/connection for the wire harness to the VAPS Actuator Assembly while removing my steering gear. Did not come across a thread pertaining to it but I can't believe this is a first. Reason being, the thing was hidden from sight until I went to put it back in and found a dangling wire and connection.

Has anyone replaced this on their vehicle? If so, can it be done without removing the steering gear? Would I need to refill and bleed the steering gear again?

Part number 4Z-3N803-AA is shown and circled below. The only good thing this part has going for it is that it can be replaced without replacing the entire steering gear assembly, saving a whopping $800. Going to be an interesting drive in the morning.

Screenshot2013-08-15at123509AM_zps6416ea61.jpg
 
Thanks Mark, much obliged.

Too bad this all could have been avoided had this noise been properly diagnosed. Still clunking/binding/grinding like no tomorrow. Ford tech says lower ball joints or control arm bushings are seized, the fella at Belle Tire thinks shocks, I think I need to jack up the license plate and park a new car underneath it. Wouldn't bother me but I spend 2 hours a day in my car and would like it to be a pleasurable driving experience, not one of worry and shame.

Anyways, thanks again. I didn't come across this in the shop manual. I guess I should look harder next time.
 
You know what, I think it won't be as easy as the manual depicts. There isn't much room down there, but I could be wrong.
 
I found it in my shop manual, they include its removal with the steering gear/tie rods. Will have to wait and see. Definitely doing this on a weekend this time around. Debating to pull this off a parts car or to buy new. It doesn't seem to be a common issue on the LS so a parts car should work, until they tell me I need to buy the whole rack. Might consider buying it, getting it rebuilt as my clunk may be because mine is worn out.
 
jm -

how come I'm getting nothing on http://www.worldpartsinfo.com/ ?
even when I attempt to drill down a few directories, it's not allowed and gives me know where to link in.
the splash (welcome/front) page is static. No links.

Membership only ?
zero contact information.

~ looks interesting.

----EDIT:
I can find straight links in on google that work though:
http://www.worldpartsinfo.com/Ford/...ers,+2001/2002+From:+01/31/2000To:+08/19/2002

but can't get in through the front door or even find any options to sign up/register.

this out-off-frame or something ?
 
To update. I replaced this last week and I'm just going to say, do yourself a favor and check everything before dropping the rack. This piece cost too much and this, like many other LS parts, may be impossible to get. I waited a week to get it through a dealer we are well connected to.

Anyways, you need to take the rack out to replace the actuator. There is room with a socket style torx bit but I wouldn't risk having a piece of dirt, rust, oily gunk drop in the actuator hole. There is also a little screen that needs to be put in place before replacing with the new actuator which is included with the new part. I didn't have a torque wrench for the specs so I had tightened back and forth and took a SWAG that it was tight enough. As mentioned elsewhere if you really want to appreciate the actuator, disconnect it and run without it for a week. It makes your car drive like a cement truck at low speeds.

Rig, apologize for the late reply. I just go to FordPartsGiant.com and once you get to the list of parts in the directory/group you're looking for, there's a blue view info button at the top of the list. Click that, then click view. I never realized that it took you two an external website. Perhaps it's a subscription that can be accessed via FPG.com.
 
I am having a hard steering problem too. Pulled the VAPS solenoid and it measures fine. Plug measures fine too.
I don't get any codes but I am just using the parts store scanner.

Shop manual mentions the FEM as a possible problem but I may need to get the dealer to scan for deeper codes?

Problem started over night and with one start it went to hard steering so I think it's electrical and not the rack but not many people seem to have this problem.
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You've only verified that the solenoid coil on the valve is probably good. You haven't verified that the valve is good, or that the pump or the rack is good...
Did you check for power at the connector (engine running)?
 
No I have not. The shop manual has resistance checks I will look for power checks.

It's just two wires but I think it's a PWM signal that is sent to the solenoid?
Not sure what my meter should read looking at a PWM signal?

Pump has been replaced in the past and at anything above idle it seems to have the proper assist.
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clubairth said:
...It's just two wires but I think it's a PWM signal that is sent to the solenoid?
Not sure what my meter should read looking at a PWM signal?...
Click to expand...

Yes, it's PWM, but at full boost and not boost it will be a steady (or very nearly no PWM) signal and you should be able to read it okay. Normally, these are failsafed, as in no power or connector disconnected should cause full boost. I suppose it is possible that the LS is the reverse of this. Either way, you should be able to figure out if the problem is the FEM/wiring or not.

Disconnect the actuator. Do you now get full boost all the time? Yes - then a problem with the FEM or wiring is a good bet. Do you get no boost all of the time? Yes - then a problem with the FEM or wiring is a good bet. Did it make no difference (boost above idle, no boost below idle)? - Yes, probably an issue with the rack, pump, or actuator.

What fluid are you using in the power steering? (I hope it's not power steering fluid.)
 
Will do.

I am using Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the P/S right now. I have treated the P/S with the magic juice years ago for noise and it's still quiet even though I have had to change the P/S fluid several times. When I changed the pump and when I pulled the VAPS solenoid because that drains the entire system.
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Unplugged the VAPS sensor and still steers the same. So I guess it is a rack problem?
Plugged it back in just to be sure. Not zero boost just heavy steering at low speeds and idle.

Fluid and pump seem OK. No noise and the fluid is new and as I said before the pump was replaced and I think has about 10K miles on it.
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Finally got my ScanXL out and working.

Pulled C1924 and C1925. Both VAPS codes. Same codes if the VAPS solenoid is plugged in or not. Erased them 2 times and both came back right away. All electrical checks per the Ford shop manual are fine EXCEPT the BRN/GRN wire going from the VAPS plug to the FEM is a dead short. Unplugging the FEM and the short goes away. I know it has to be programmed but I have a used module coming from Ebay. I will plug it in and check the resistance from the BRN/GRN wire at the VAPS to see if it's still shorted. If not then the FEM was it and I will put the old one back in and take it Ford to program the replacement FEM.

Driving with the VAPS unplugged is supposed to put the P/S at max assist but mine is the same regardless if the VAPS is plugged in or not. I think that would point to a rack/actuator problem and NOT the FEM?
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Maybe you have more than one problem? The replacement FEM will need programming only if the car it came from was configured (optioned) differently than yours.
I'm not sure that a resistance test with the FEM plugged in is valid. I would not expect it to be.
 
Well my car is fixed!

Got a used FEM off EBay and took it to Ford to reprogram. My steering is back like it should be now.

I was wrong about the BRN/GRN wire being shorted to ground. It goes to pin 2 in the FEM which is a ground so it should be shorted. This is an error in the Ford shop manual trouble shooting the VAPS.
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clubairth said:
Well my car is fixed!

Got a used FEM off EBay and took it to Ford to reprogram. My steering is back like it should be now.

I was wrong about the BRN/GRN wire being shorted to ground. It goes to pin 2 in the FEM which is a ground so it should be shorted. This is an error in the Ford shop manual trouble shooting the VAPS.
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Click to expand...
How much did the dealer charge for reprogramming? I'm about to have to do this.

Also, I don't know if it's related or not, but I've noticed that my automatic headlights aren't working automatically. Even when set to auto, they are on all the time, regardless of how much ambient light there is. They do turn off within the specified time after the car is turned off though. I presume the light-sensing headlights are handled by the FEM so I wonder whether this is also a symptom of a fubared FEM.
 
I'll have to look it up to be sure, but I believe that the light sensor is read by the cluster. (The headlights are driven by the FEM, but if turning the light switch off turns the headlights off, it probably isn't the FEM at fault for this.)
 
theophile said:
How much did the dealer charge for reprogramming? I'm about to have to do this.

Also, I don't know if it's related or not, but I've noticed that my automatic headlights aren't working automatically. Even when set to auto, they are on all the time, regardless of how much ambient light there is. They do turn off within the specified time after the car is turned off though. I presume the light-sensing headlights are handled by the FEM so I wonder whether this is also a symptom of a fubared FEM.
Click to expand...

Do you have anything like a parking sticker on the back side of the inside mirror? The sensor is on the driver's back side of the mirror.
 
LS4me said:
Do you have anything like a parking sticker on the back side of the inside mirror? The sensor is on the driver's back side of the mirror.
Click to expand...

Sorry, no. The sensor is down on the center of the dash board where the PATS light is. The sensor on the front of the mirror is only for the mirror's dimming function. (I do have a Ford Ranger that has auto lights, and its sensor is part of the mirror, but it is on part of the mount, such that it is against the glass and there is no way to block it from inside the cab. This mirror does have the dimming sensor on the front side of it too.)

Note, as I see it: Front of mirror faces the hood, back of mirror faces you.
 
joegr said:
Sorry, no. The sensor is down on the center of the dash board where the PATS light is. The sensor on the front of the mirror is only for the mirror's dimming function. (I do have a Ford Ranger that has auto lights, and its sensor is part of the mirror, but it is on part of the mount, such that it is against the glass and there is no way to block it from inside the cab. This mirror does have the dimming sensor on the front side of it too.)

Note, as I see it: Front of mirror faces the hood, back of mirror faces you.
Click to expand...

D'OH!!!! For some reason I was thinking about the dimming mirror.

Must have had a Senior Moment.......
 
joegr said:
Note, as I see it: Front of mirror faces the hood, back of mirror faces you.
Click to expand...

I would think that this would be one of the few things that would be considered the opposite of the normal directionality of describing car parts and their orientation. since the function of the mirror is dependent on the reflective piece of glass allowing you to see whats behind you, I would consider the front of the mirror to be the glass facing you, and the back of the mirror facing the hood, just the same as every mirror inside our houses.

a couple more instances of that kind of situation...
the air bags: do you also consider the side that hits you in the face the back, and the front of the airbag faces the hood?
steering wheels: are the cruise control and audio system control buttons on the front or the back of the wheel?
the radio itself: I think its safe to say that every body would say the the buttons for the radio are on the front, and the harnesses plug into the back.
 
I don't disagree with your view on this. I just indicated mine so that what I was saying would be clear, since it is just as valid to look at it either way around (IMHO).
 
no worries, since usually what you say or think is based on actual facts and knowledge, it just seem interesting to me and I was just curious if there was a reason that you viewed it that way, not a big deal at all.
 
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