valve cover gasket sucks

2002_lincolnLS

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so i had to replace both valve cover gaskets on my 02 v-8 this weekend, mine were bad. My coils and plugs were swimming in oil. if any of you have done this it sucks. i may do a write up on it tomorrow if there isn't one already. From what I've heard guys say at the dealership i work at its a common problem for the o-rings around the plugs to go bad. I also put new E-3 plugs in and it runs awesome now. I'm getting 25-26 highway mpgs
 
ok quik i wont waste my time then, i wish i woulda look first cause it sucked taking them off
 
You guys don't know just how much I ENJOY working on the LS over My Catera. Now THAT motor is no fun.

I took off the valve covers and changed out the seals and the secondary tensioner on the LS in half the time it would take just to change one side of the spark plugs on the Crapterror.

I found that grinding down the socket needed to remove the coil covers made life much easier. (7mm I believe) Now it is ready to go for future use. :cool:
 
i went for BOSCH platinum and they SUCK!
never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever eveeeeeeeer buy them
they do the work, engine is a little bit more powerful, but fuel economy is not as good as before. DONT BUY BOSCH, i have like 3 weeks with them and im thinking about replacing them already


take pics and prices about that
i think i need to do the same thing
 
take pics and prices about that
i think i need to do the same thing


The gaskest were 80ish for the set from the dealership I work at. I wouldnt even visit autozone or advanced, they have atleast a 2 week wait from felpro nationwide as far as i know. its not hard to do the passenger side at all. if you think you need new ones pull the coil cover and one of the coils (i'd do one in the back) if it has any oil on it you need new gaskets.

the tools i used and you will need include:

1 3/8 rachet
2 3/8 extentions of various sizes
3 3/8 unerval joint swival
4 a 7mm socket and wrench
6 a 10mm socket
7 spark plug socket if replacing plugs (forget the size)
8 I recomend many of the same tools in 1/4 inch drive as well it will help.


To start remove all the intake parts up to the T.B.. next remove coil covers and the coils; there are two bolts in the valve cover (vc) that need to come out on Both sides. next remove all bolts around the cover and remove it.

I cleaned out the spark plug socket areas with a LINT FREE towel on a 90 degree pick tool as it was easy to get into the corners.

Next install the new o-rings and outer gasket and replace.

You should buy some high-temp rtv to put in the valley were the gasket goes to keep in in place while moving it back into place. Also be very sure to run your finger around the edge before torquing the bolts to be sure the gasket is not hanging out.

The driver side is more difficult due to the brake booster, as well as the oil fill neck gets int he way. DO NOT try to remove it it is locked in to place and you will crack it. do the same on this side, it takes quit abit of monuvering around to get it out. The more stuff around it you remove the easier it is.

A small ratcheting wrench works well for the back bottom bolt on the driver side. Gear-Wrench sells a set of stubby ones; it will help greatly.

replace as you did the passenger side.

when you start the car you will have a lot of smoke from the oil that went down into the cyllinders it will burn off. watch the valve covers with a flash light to make sure there are no leaks.
 
Good point on the oil fill neck...

Yup broke it right off. :mad:

i didn't luckily i just removed the gas line to get the valve cover off. And after I got it off i looked to see how it was in there, it twists into place then locks with like a clip, it reminded me of like medicine bottles.
 
Or get a 7mm ratcheting wrench.
true, i finally got one for the third time i took them off

or even just a regular wrench, but do tie a string around your wrist and the wrench (thanks Quik) for when (not if) you drop it
 
i didn't luckily i just removed the gas line to get the valve cover off. And after I got it off i looked to see how it was in there, it twists into place then locks with like a clip, it reminded me of like medicine bottles.

Yup, Old fast and furious here man-handed it off.

I knew we had trouble when the clip made its death rattle.

JB weld to the rescue! :shifty:

It looked like it wasnt its first break either... Picking the plactic parts out of the valve buckets was not heart warming.
 
Yup, Old fast and furious here man-handed it off.

I knew we had trouble when the clip made its death rattle.

JB weld to the rescue! :shifty:

It looked like it wasnt its first break either... Picking the plactic parts out of the valve buckets was not heart warming.

yeah i dropped a piece down in there and i was scared :q:q:q:qless until i found it, luckily nothing of a decent size can find its way into the crank case
 
true, i finally got one for the third time i took them off

or even just a regular wrench, but do tie a string around your wrist and the wrench (thanks Quik) for when (not if) you drop it

Yep, another thanks to Quik for that one.
 
yeah i dropped a piece down in there and i was scared :q:q:q:qless until i found it, luckily nothing of a decent size can find its way into the crank case

Which leads me to my next question... Where the Phaq did the rest of my tensioner plastic parts make their way to? :confused:

I assume they fell down near the front seal but I couldn't see any with the front cover still on.

Does the Oil pump have a screen to it does anyone know?

Changed the oil and no parts made their way out, nothing inside the filter...

Funny thing was, the largest plastic part was resting right inside the top of the front cover when I removed the valve cover. :eek:

I was like "Come here, you gotta go!" but CSI'ing it back together leaves about an inch long plastic piece inside the now running motor... :shifty:
 
Which leads me to my next question... Where the Phaq did the rest of my tensioner plastic parts make their way to? :confused:

I assume they fell down near the front seal but I couldn't see any with the front cover still on.

Does the Oil pump have a screen to it does anyone know?

Changed the oil and no parts made their way out, nothing inside the filter...

Funny thing was, the largest plastic part was resting right inside the top of the front cover when I removed the valve cover. :eek:

I was like "Come here, you gotta go!" but CSI'ing it back together leaves about an inch long plastic piece inside the now running motor... :shifty:

That I cant guarantee, but I'm pretty sure it does. almost all cars have some sort of screen on the pump. Now its not a super fine mesh typically. That being said small small pieces can fack it up.
 
I left the coil covers off.

i wouldn't do that, they are there to seal the coils, if you look at cars like the fusion with C.O.P.'s that done have a cover you will notice a large grommet type of seal. Our car doesn't have that thats why there is a gasket on the cover and the pig tails for the coils have a foam thing that the cover squishes down on to seal the whole area off
 
i wouldn't do that, they are there to seal the coils, if you look at cars like the fusion with C.O.P.'s that done have a cover you will notice a large grommet type of seal. Our car doesn't have that thats why there is a gasket on the cover and the pig tails for the coils have a foam thing that the cover squishes down on to seal the whole area off

I left mine off as well, but plan to put them back on asap. Had to drive in the rain two days this week with no issues yet but I heard on the Jag forum that water kills the coils just the same as the oil does pretty Quick if it gets in there so common sence tells me to put them back and seal them up.;)
 

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