aggiestckl
Well-Known LVC Member
whats the best / cheapest way to replace the upper and lower control arms... dont wanna weld anything.. some tbird interchanges???.. i know u gotta weld one i dont wanna do that... thanks in advance
upper / lower control arm question
- Thread starter aggiestckl
- Start date
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
Lower control arms; T-Bird all the way ($55). The Mark VIII's are twice as much and the same damn thing.
Uppers; Mark VII- Moogs/ TRW's are about $79 a piece.
Uppers; Mark VII- Moogs/ TRW's are about $79 a piece.
Jibit
Dearly Departed Friend
Actually, a buddy of mine said he found them cheap and Murray's Auto. Not sure if you have them buy you but if you do check with them.
http://www.partsamerica.com/Default.aspx
http://www.partsamerica.com/Default.aspx
Jibit
Dearly Departed Friend
Also, Arnott sells the uppers!
M
my95mark8
Guest
Lower arms for a Mark VIII are under $60 at Advance
mespock
Marxists - Socialists
The Driver’s side bolt behind the master cylinder is the biggest bitch when replacing the upper control arms.
When you deflate your air bag to allow space to get at the nut behind the bag, you will find a flange on the nut. You can knock off the flange on the nut so you can place a socket on that nut and make the replacement much faster. The flange is to help keep the nut from spinning when tightening the bolt from behind the master cylinder and not necessary, by removing the flange it allows you to loosen the bolt from the wheel well (a much easier place to work) not the tight engine bay.
I did this with my 93 and it took a lot less time than the 1 hour of 1/4 turns with a ratcheted wrench that you get to do from on top in the engine bay.
When you deflate your air bag to allow space to get at the nut behind the bag, you will find a flange on the nut. You can knock off the flange on the nut so you can place a socket on that nut and make the replacement much faster. The flange is to help keep the nut from spinning when tightening the bolt from behind the master cylinder and not necessary, by removing the flange it allows you to loosen the bolt from the wheel well (a much easier place to work) not the tight engine bay.
I did this with my 93 and it took a lot less time than the 1 hour of 1/4 turns with a ratcheted wrench that you get to do from on top in the engine bay.
M
my95mark8
Guest
What I did to get the nut under the master cylinder was put a 6 point socket on a long breaker bar, pull that big connector off it's mount and move it out of the way. Then stick the breaker bar down through there and get the socket on the nut. I may have used a prybar, or a piece of wood strapping to keep the socket from falling off, I can't remember. Then I went under in the wheel well, broke off the "flag", and loosened it with a ratchet. I had the strut removed to gain access to the bolt, I was either changing the strut on the same day, or the strut rod bushings, I can't remember. I should have taken pictures.
Rich, you were able to get at the bolt by letting the air out of the strut? I didn't even think of that....maybe next time, I'll try it.
Rich, you were able to get at the bolt by letting the air out of the strut? I didn't even think of that....maybe next time, I'll try it.
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
If you look under the fender plastic inner pannel you will find a nice big access hole to put your socket and extension onto the nut.
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
:q:q:q:q Arnott.
I installed a set of uppers on the 94, with my dad driving, and WITH STOCK tires, They were shot with in 5K.
went with a set of NAPA TRW's and never worried about them again.
Mike
I installed a set of uppers on the 94, with my dad driving, and WITH STOCK tires, They were shot with in 5K.
went with a set of NAPA TRW's and never worried about them again.
Mike