Upper control arm repair

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Barwick

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Anyone know exactly the process for replacing the upper control arm? I've FINALLY after freaking forever hours got the ball joint nut off (an impact gun didn't even do it, just spun the bastard around), but I can't get the two bolts out that connect the control arm to the chassis.

PLEASE don't tell me that I need to take the lower shock mount off, because I will not be a happy camper. I've already loosened the shock tower mounting bolts in hopes that I could simply lower the shock down from there, no such luck so far...
 
Oh, man, you're not going to like this. According to AllDataDIY, for a 2nd Gen LS at least, step #2 is:
If removing an upper arm, remove the shock absorber and spring assembly.
Click to expand...
 
Great...

Anyone know how to remove it without taking the lower nut off? I've got a feeling that the lower nut is going to be a pain in the arse to get back on.

I've already got the top 4 nuts and the main center nut off (although I don't think I needed to take the top center nut off).
 
To remove the upper control arm, it say to follow steps "9,12-14", which looks like you need to remove:
9) Upper ball joint to wheel knuckle nut
12) Upper arm to body nuts (2 req'd)
13) Upper arm to body bolts (2 req'd)
14) Upper arm

It also says to "Use the hex holding feature to prevent the stud from turning while removing the nut from ball joints and stabilizer bar links."
 
I looked at the shock removal instructions, and it basically says "take the parts off in order. To install, reverse the procedure." Not particularly helpful, that. :waving:
 
PUT THAT CENTER NUT BACK ON BEFORE YOU TRY AND REMOVE THE SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY!!!!

The center nut holds on the top plate of the spring shock assembly, and holds the spring in a compressed state, it is NOT connected to the unibody. If you try to remove the bolt on the lower end of the shock before doing this you could do serious damage to yourself and the car.
 
+1 !!!!! If you are doing driver's side, you need to take to dealer or be VERY patiend. The upper arm to body bolts are accesed from the engine compartment and the rear one is the biggest PITA you will ever see!
 
and the reason the ball joint nut is spinning is you need to hold the stud w/ a socket while loosening the nut with an openended wrench. If you spun it a bunch, the joint is probably now bad, even if it wasn't before....

Most of the joints on the LS are designed this way (ie tie rod ends, sway bar links, etc.)
 
Yeah the swaybar links are impossible to get off.

Basically, I'm screwed right now...

I got the 4 bolts off the top of the strut, plus the center. Now the center bolt I can't put back on because it dropped down (maybe if I jack it back up).

Even then, it doesn't matter, because I can't get the swaybar link off, even with the impact gun, the nut is just spinning the bolt.

I got the two bolts loosened on the upper control arm, but can't get them OUT of the upper control arm because the spring assembly is blocking that from happening... I had to cut off the lower control arm bolt (it was spinning like nobody's business, that's why it needed to be replaced). This means that I need to go back to the dealer on Monday to buy this nut, and leave my freaking POS Ford product sitting in the driveway all weekend because the upper control arm that was advertised with "ball joint nut" included, DIDN'T come with the nut.
 
seriously, since you've pulled that center nut out you are in some deep trouble. I would be VERY careful about how to proceed here, those springs can kill you.

As for the upper C/A bolts they come out inside the engine bay, I'm not sure how the spring assembly is in the way. What you see in the wheel well are just the nuts.

As for the sway bar links. you have to hold the stud w/a socket and turn the nut w/an open ended wrench. It's not hard.

But I would not do ANYTHING until you figure out how to get that center nut back on...

You should get ahold of (download) a service manual. It would have made this job much easier, including how to deal w/the hex holding feature of the links and also a nice warning about not removing that center nut. Additionally, since you are dealing with suspension components proper torque is critical...not sure how you could know the torque settings without a service manual.
 
Also on that center shock nut- I believe it's a one time use nut, the kind with a built in nylon washer, so now that it's off you'll need a new one anyway.
 
Nylock works more than once, so normally I'd re-use it (I've done it on race cars before even). But since I have to go back to the dealer again anyhow...

I got the whole thing off, now I need to rent a spring compressor to put the center nut back on. For whatever reason I thought I needed to do that.

But on the bright side, have any of you taken the shocks out of your car? They have so freaking little travel it's not even funny.

The swaybar bolts weren't too bad, just tedious. It's a ridiculously stupid design Ford made, that REQUIRES the "hex holding feature" to be used. Just proper torque on a regular bolt (or even a nylock), maybe even some loctite, and it's good to go. But nooooo... they needed to make it hard on us.

And the reason I didn't think the "hex holding feature" was going to work was because I tried it on the stupid upper control arm ball joint, and it just flat out wouldn't work, I even broke a wratchet doing it.

But I also wonder how I'm going to get the swaybar bolt back on, it was tough as crap to get off when the shock was still in there (the bolt got in the way of the link).
 
it you have the WHOLE front end jacked up to the same height the links are easy to get off and the bolt shouldn't be in the way.
 
The hex holding feature is neat. The joints are simplified as the stud is simply the bottom half of the joint...and as such can "spin". The simple trick is to break them free with air-tool or a breaker bar - just a quarter turn max...then use hex feature to complete.
 
I have the WHOLE front end off and it still was impossible. It didn't get out of the way ever, no matter what configuration I had the front end in, up, half up, whatever...
 
FWIW, the notes in AllData indicate that pretty much all of the bolts and nuts on the suspension are one-use fasteners. I'm guessing that they're torque-to-yield fasteners, like head bolts.
 
Pulling this one from the dead. Found my rubbing/grinding noise when turning to be the upper front driver side control arm.

My question is, how in the holy Mary do you get the rear body bolt off? It's under harness wires which are under the master cylinder. You'd have to remove the cylinder to get to the wire connectors to get the wires out of the way.

And the full service manual...says to just remove this bolt, torque to 35 ft lb. I bet tons of mechanics read that and cried.

Any thoughts appreciated, because I was at a loss looking at it.
 
The gen II manual says you have to disconnect the master cylinder from the vacuum booster to get to that bolt.

  1. Disconnect the brake master cylinder main pressure transducer electrical connector, if equipped.

  • s6x%7Eus%7Een%7Efile=a0001173.gif%7Egen%7Eref.gif
  1. Back out the reservoir bolt to obtain access to the master cylinder bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

  • s6x%7Eus%7Een%7Efile=n0004735.gif%7Egen%7Eref.gif
  1. Remove the 2 brake master cylinder nuts and position the brake master cylinder aside.
    • To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

  • s6x%7Eus%7Een%7Efile=n0004736.gif%7Egen%7Eref.gif
 
joegr said:
The gen II manual says you have to disconnect the master cylinder from the vacuum booster to get to that bolt.

  1. Disconnect the brake master cylinder main pressure transducer electrical connector, if equipped.
  1. Back out the reservoir bolt to obtain access to the master cylinder bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
  1. Remove the 2 brake master cylinder nuts and position the brake master cylinder aside.
    • To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Click to expand...

That makes much more sense then the Gen I that just says to loosen and remove body nut / bolt. Thanks, Joegr.

I've done a lot of mechanical work on this car and others but brake boosters and master cylinders is not one. Is theee anything else to removing two bolts to the MC and moving it (i.e. Brake fluid or o-rings)? Or is it just mounted to the booster?
 
No need to disconnect the brake lines, so there should be no fluid, bleeding, or seal issues. Just leave the MC floating by the brake lines, nearby but out of the way.
 
Barwick said:
Anyone know exactly the process for replacing the upper control arm? I've FINALLY after freaking forever hours got the ball joint nut off (an impact gun didn't even do it, just spun the bastard around), but I can't get the two bolts out that connect the control arm to the chassis.

PLEASE don't tell me that I need to take the lower shock mount off, because I will not be a happy camper. I've already loosened the shock tower mounting bolts in hopes that I could simply lower the shock down from there, no such luck so far...
Click to expand...
Not sure if you’re aware of the seriousness of the coil spring you loosened but you could’ve killed yourself....Consider yourself blessed you didn’t seriously hurt/ kill yourself...shock springs are nothing to play around with...
 
Last edited:
Broseph said:
Pulling this one from the dead. Found my rubbing/grinding noise when turning to be the upper front driver side control arm.

My question is, how in the holy Mary do you get the rear body bolt off? It's under harness wires which are under the master cylinder. You'd have to remove the cylinder to get to the wire connectors to get the wires out of the way.

And the full service manual...says to just remove this bolt, torque to 35 ft lb. I bet tons of mechanics read that and cried.

Any thoughts appreciated, because I was at a loss looking at it.
Click to expand...
Just wanna know what was exactly rubbing/grinding on the control arm when you would turn? I’m have the same issue with my passenger side and I just replaced the old one with a new upper control arm....wondering if the new part is defective?
 
Broseph said:
Pulling this one from the dead. Found my rubbing/grinding noise when turning to be the upper front driver side control arm.

My question is, how in the holy Mary do you get the rear body bolt off? It's under harness wires which are under the master cylinder. You'd have to remove the cylinder to get to the wire connectors to get the wires out of the way.

And the full service manual...says to just remove this bolt, torque to 35 ft lb. I bet tons of mechanics read that and cried.

Any thoughts appreciated, because I was at a loss looking at it.
Click to expand...
Nevermind I found out it’s the brake pads
 
AmsterDutch said:
Nevermind I found out it’s the brake pads
Click to expand...

Sorry I got this a little late. I was busy going through the nightmare of removing components to get to the upper drivers-side inner bolt.

I could actually feel the binding in the upper ball joint. Had my wife turn the wheel while I listened and felt around.

I'm curious to how you found out it was the pads, because now I notice the sound was more towards right wheel. Might be inner tie rods, but if it's pads, that would make my week for sure.
 
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