Frat-man-du
Dedicated LVC Member
The details never end...super job!
Update on "Toybox" trailer project
- Thread starter barry2952
- Start date
Thanks.
8-2-2006 10 days to go
Bill finished the table top and took measurements for the service area cabinets.
The bubble lamp casts an intersting circle on the table top.
Tha back end is just about done. The aluminum moulding turned out better than I expected. It almost looks like it was part of the original structure.
I installed the 2KW inverter/charger. For the uninformed, as I was, there are inexpensive inverters and there are expensive inverters. True sine-wave inverters are necessary to run sensitive electronics and certain types of electric motors.
I sized the inverter based on the actual load of the trailer and all its goodies. The A/C unit I selected only draws 8 amps vs. 13-15 amps for a larger AC unit. At 7,100 btu this unit will freeze us out in no time. Four inches of insulation and 5/8" of bamboo makes the cabin like an icebox.
I actually read the instructions and followed the installation guide (lots of pictures) and fired up the unit. The LCD display lit up and told me it was charging the battery.
I disconnected the AC power and the inverter transferred power to its 120-volt output at 2,000 contant watts and 4,500 peak watts. That was more than sufficient to let the rooftop AC unit keep running at peak output.
I have three new 650 CA Optima marine batteries and I have room for five more in the rack. I'll add batteries as needed. I'm sure I'll carry a generator in the tow vehicle, but it will be nice to be totally off-grid if necessary.
8-2-2006 10 days to go
Bill finished the table top and took measurements for the service area cabinets.
The bubble lamp casts an intersting circle on the table top.
Tha back end is just about done. The aluminum moulding turned out better than I expected. It almost looks like it was part of the original structure.
I installed the 2KW inverter/charger. For the uninformed, as I was, there are inexpensive inverters and there are expensive inverters. True sine-wave inverters are necessary to run sensitive electronics and certain types of electric motors.
I sized the inverter based on the actual load of the trailer and all its goodies. The A/C unit I selected only draws 8 amps vs. 13-15 amps for a larger AC unit. At 7,100 btu this unit will freeze us out in no time. Four inches of insulation and 5/8" of bamboo makes the cabin like an icebox.
I actually read the instructions and followed the installation guide (lots of pictures) and fired up the unit. The LCD display lit up and told me it was charging the battery.
I disconnected the AC power and the inverter transferred power to its 120-volt output at 2,000 contant watts and 4,500 peak watts. That was more than sufficient to let the rooftop AC unit keep running at peak output.
I have three new 650 CA Optima marine batteries and I have room for five more in the rack. I'll add batteries as needed. I'm sure I'll carry a generator in the tow vehicle, but it will be nice to be totally off-grid if necessary.
8-6-2006
I took the trailer for its first drive Saturday and it performed beyond expectations. I hooked it up to one of my heavy-duty work trucks and took it for a spin. The time leading up to the first run was filled with trepidation because some jerk had planted in my mind that I had too much braking capacity and that the trailer tires would lock up whenever the brakes were applied. He was dead wrong and the drive went flawlessly. All of my hard work paid off.
I had an audience for the second, much further, trial run. I had been contacted by a Free Press editor through my cardomain.com web site. Her note stated that she had been surfing the web looking at travel trailer links and mine popped up. She said she was fascinated by the project and wanted to do a mixed-media story on it. It seem our home town paper is venturing into the 21st century.
The newspaper sent out a photographer last week and she took a bunch of shots and stayed 4 hours while she watched me work. She took shots of both of our show cars and went back to her editor to expand the story. They sent out a video-reporter (whatever that is) and he interviewed me about the cars and trailer. He followed us out to the Sunday cruise we frequent and interviewed a number of the well-wishers and people that were fascinated with the project.
It was quite a day.
I took the trailer for its first drive Saturday and it performed beyond expectations. I hooked it up to one of my heavy-duty work trucks and took it for a spin. The time leading up to the first run was filled with trepidation because some jerk had planted in my mind that I had too much braking capacity and that the trailer tires would lock up whenever the brakes were applied. He was dead wrong and the drive went flawlessly. All of my hard work paid off.
I had an audience for the second, much further, trial run. I had been contacted by a Free Press editor through my cardomain.com web site. Her note stated that she had been surfing the web looking at travel trailer links and mine popped up. She said she was fascinated by the project and wanted to do a mixed-media story on it. It seem our home town paper is venturing into the 21st century.
The newspaper sent out a photographer last week and she took a bunch of shots and stayed 4 hours while she watched me work. She took shots of both of our show cars and went back to her editor to expand the story. They sent out a video-reporter (whatever that is) and he interviewed me about the cars and trailer. He followed us out to the Sunday cruise we frequent and interviewed a number of the well-wishers and people that were fascinated with the project.
It was quite a day.
8-8-06 Down to the wire.
The maiden voyage cross-Michigan is this Friday. I installed the e-tracks to secure the car. They were installed so that the inner edge of both tracks are fastened to the frame with 1/4"-20 stainless screws that are drilled and tapped into the 10-gauge metal. The outer edges are fastened with 1 1/2" #14 screws with heads that match the machine screws. The deck is two layers of 3/4" plywood.
Before the first jaunt I installed a load distribution hitch with anti-sway. It probably didn't need it. I drove it a distance without it and noticed now sway, just a little more porpoising.
The crowd at Baker's loved it.
Parked in front of the house and left the running lights on near sunset. See how it disappears at dusk.
Celebrated the weekend with a bottle of champaign while sitting in my air-conditioned, off-grid, silver palace.
Bill built the cabinetry for the "refreshment center". The upper section is flush with the bulkhead wall. It will be framed in the green window sill material or the aluminum strips I framed the windows in.
That's the 6-bottle wine cooler on the right. Next to it, and level with the top of the cooler will be the microwave. Underneath it will be an open area for serving tray storage. The trays will be retained by a stainless rod made from the leftover curtain rod material.
In typical trailer interior fashion, there will be a one piece door that will be top-hinged for the upper storage area.
The lower cabinet will have a wet sink built into a countertop made of the same material as the table and windowsills. There will be an ice bucket and a waste bin also built into the countertop.
There will be two drawers big enough for dishes and other serving utensils. The lower left divided areas are more storage and the white object is the RV toilet. It will be concealed behind doors.
The maiden voyage cross-Michigan is this Friday. I installed the e-tracks to secure the car. They were installed so that the inner edge of both tracks are fastened to the frame with 1/4"-20 stainless screws that are drilled and tapped into the 10-gauge metal. The outer edges are fastened with 1 1/2" #14 screws with heads that match the machine screws. The deck is two layers of 3/4" plywood.
Before the first jaunt I installed a load distribution hitch with anti-sway. It probably didn't need it. I drove it a distance without it and noticed now sway, just a little more porpoising.
The crowd at Baker's loved it.
Parked in front of the house and left the running lights on near sunset. See how it disappears at dusk.
Celebrated the weekend with a bottle of champaign while sitting in my air-conditioned, off-grid, silver palace.
Bill built the cabinetry for the "refreshment center". The upper section is flush with the bulkhead wall. It will be framed in the green window sill material or the aluminum strips I framed the windows in.
That's the 6-bottle wine cooler on the right. Next to it, and level with the top of the cooler will be the microwave. Underneath it will be an open area for serving tray storage. The trays will be retained by a stainless rod made from the leftover curtain rod material.
In typical trailer interior fashion, there will be a one piece door that will be top-hinged for the upper storage area.
The lower cabinet will have a wet sink built into a countertop made of the same material as the table and windowsills. There will be an ice bucket and a waste bin also built into the countertop.
There will be two drawers big enough for dishes and other serving utensils. The lower left divided areas are more storage and the white object is the RV toilet. It will be concealed behind doors.
9-13-2006
I've settled with the insurance company. I've decided to make the repairs myself. The Phoenix will rise again.
As a caution to anyone with a round-bar weight distributing hitch. Since this accident I have found numerous stories of similar occurances. The overall design makes mechanical sense, but suffers, in my opinion, from a failure to be idiot-proof. There are just too many things that could happen that would allow the round bar to drop out.
However, I take some responsibility in the crash. There is a trailer towing dynamic that I was unaware of. Everyone talks about tongue weight as the most critical measurement in towing. I now believe that inertia is much more critical.
I loaded the Porsche in the trailer right over the center of the three axles. That created too much tongue weight. The rear of the F-450 sat down about 4". That produced an obvious overload. I moved the Porsche back in the 21' space within 2 feet of the back end. This produced about a 2" drop in the tow vehicle. As a rule of thumb, a 2" drop on an F-450 is plenty of tongue weight.
What I hadn't accounted for was mass. The Porsche is rear-engined. While the car has excellent weight distribution, most of the mass is at the rear. In fact, the Porsche engine sits aft of the transaxle, so all of the mechanicals are at the rear of the car. I had a 13 foot car in the rear of a 36 foot trailer. I has effectively set up a pendulum.
The pendulum effect was thoroughly masked by the new weight distributing hitch until one of the round bars somehow disengaged. When it fell off it changed the towing dynamics so dramatically that we started to spin.
The extreme "wags" of the trailer was apparently due to the position of the car, at the end of a 36-foot trailer. Once it started, the mass of the car kept it going as a body in motion tends to stay in motion. The side to side skid marks on the floor was evidence of extreme side forces which played further into the mishap.
I've entertained two schools of thought about the actual detachment of the round bar. The first would be that the cumulative manufacturing errors contributed to the bar falling out of its socket. The other school of thought is that the chain tensioner came up over the edge of the frame rail and disengaged the tension on the round bar. The torsion bar could have rotated sideways 90° and then fallen out as the pin can not hold the bar past 90°. It is my opinion that the tensioner should have been welded in place but the unit is clearly marked that welding would void the warranty.
THE "55 PORSCHE CONTINENTAL
The Porsche suffered extensive body damage on the passenger side. It also suffered some severe suspension damage on the same side. Both side wheels are bent, as are the extremely rare aluminum brake drums. The front spindle is bent and both hubcaps are ruined. The rear axle appears to be bent and the transmission may have suffered some internal damage.
The car is too rare not to repair. It was insured for a bit more than the anticipated damages and the insurance company hasn't balked at anything.
The front suspension has been repaired but the engine and transaxle need to come out for repair by another specialist. While the transaxle is being repaired the car will be disassembled for a complete paint job. The windshield, top windows and interior will be removed and reassembled after the bodywork and paint are done at Autometrics, in Pontiac, MI. I should get it back better than new.
THE PHOENIX
Was pretty banged up. The inner wall was pushed out about 4 inches. 4 wood studs broke and two aluminum supports on either side of the rear door were badly bent.
The door is bent at the same angle as the trailer wall. The door was trapped closed by the guardrail when the Porsche hit the wall from the inside. I couldn't figure it out at first.
The passenger side got the worst of it, just like the Porsche. You can see how the guardrail left its mark.
The driver's side took a smack that did some superficial damage but made a kink in the rear opening.
The inertia of the impact wracked the ramp system. I should be able to bend this back into shape.
The door frame took the brunt of the damage.
My first step will be to remove the FRP lining and remove damaged wood and foam.
I've settled with the insurance company. I've decided to make the repairs myself. The Phoenix will rise again.
As a caution to anyone with a round-bar weight distributing hitch. Since this accident I have found numerous stories of similar occurances. The overall design makes mechanical sense, but suffers, in my opinion, from a failure to be idiot-proof. There are just too many things that could happen that would allow the round bar to drop out.
However, I take some responsibility in the crash. There is a trailer towing dynamic that I was unaware of. Everyone talks about tongue weight as the most critical measurement in towing. I now believe that inertia is much more critical.
I loaded the Porsche in the trailer right over the center of the three axles. That created too much tongue weight. The rear of the F-450 sat down about 4". That produced an obvious overload. I moved the Porsche back in the 21' space within 2 feet of the back end. This produced about a 2" drop in the tow vehicle. As a rule of thumb, a 2" drop on an F-450 is plenty of tongue weight.
What I hadn't accounted for was mass. The Porsche is rear-engined. While the car has excellent weight distribution, most of the mass is at the rear. In fact, the Porsche engine sits aft of the transaxle, so all of the mechanicals are at the rear of the car. I had a 13 foot car in the rear of a 36 foot trailer. I has effectively set up a pendulum.
The pendulum effect was thoroughly masked by the new weight distributing hitch until one of the round bars somehow disengaged. When it fell off it changed the towing dynamics so dramatically that we started to spin.
The extreme "wags" of the trailer was apparently due to the position of the car, at the end of a 36-foot trailer. Once it started, the mass of the car kept it going as a body in motion tends to stay in motion. The side to side skid marks on the floor was evidence of extreme side forces which played further into the mishap.
I've entertained two schools of thought about the actual detachment of the round bar. The first would be that the cumulative manufacturing errors contributed to the bar falling out of its socket. The other school of thought is that the chain tensioner came up over the edge of the frame rail and disengaged the tension on the round bar. The torsion bar could have rotated sideways 90° and then fallen out as the pin can not hold the bar past 90°. It is my opinion that the tensioner should have been welded in place but the unit is clearly marked that welding would void the warranty.
THE "55 PORSCHE CONTINENTAL
The Porsche suffered extensive body damage on the passenger side. It also suffered some severe suspension damage on the same side. Both side wheels are bent, as are the extremely rare aluminum brake drums. The front spindle is bent and both hubcaps are ruined. The rear axle appears to be bent and the transmission may have suffered some internal damage.
The car is too rare not to repair. It was insured for a bit more than the anticipated damages and the insurance company hasn't balked at anything.
The front suspension has been repaired but the engine and transaxle need to come out for repair by another specialist. While the transaxle is being repaired the car will be disassembled for a complete paint job. The windshield, top windows and interior will be removed and reassembled after the bodywork and paint are done at Autometrics, in Pontiac, MI. I should get it back better than new.
THE PHOENIX
Was pretty banged up. The inner wall was pushed out about 4 inches. 4 wood studs broke and two aluminum supports on either side of the rear door were badly bent.
The door is bent at the same angle as the trailer wall. The door was trapped closed by the guardrail when the Porsche hit the wall from the inside. I couldn't figure it out at first.
The passenger side got the worst of it, just like the Porsche. You can see how the guardrail left its mark.
The driver's side took a smack that did some superficial damage but made a kink in the rear opening.
The inertia of the impact wracked the ramp system. I should be able to bend this back into shape.
The door frame took the brunt of the damage.
My first step will be to remove the FRP lining and remove damaged wood and foam.
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
Wow Barry, I'm sorry to hear this. That sucks. 
Mike
Mike
Sergmark
Dedicated LVC Member
Wow,
Thats to bad Barry. I've been following your progress like many others. It's a shame to see such a piece of work damaged like that, especially when you do it with your own hands !!
Sounds like things are on the right track again. Best of luck !!
I missed you at Jeremis. I drove right by you on my way to work
Thats to bad Barry. I've been following your progress like many others. It's a shame to see such a piece of work damaged like that, especially when you do it with your own hands !!
Sounds like things are on the right track again. Best of luck !!
I missed you at Jeremis. I drove right by you on my way to work
Frat-man-du
Dedicated LVC Member
OMG.
I enclosed trailered my 65 T-bird 'vert for years and was always so fearful of such an event. My first loading was assisted by Haulmark Engineers at the factory in PA and they helped to perfectly balance my load, even where to put the car based on full tank of gas, vs. empty.
I am glad no one was hurt. Objects can be fixed. With your obvious skills I am sure she will be as good as new in no time flat.
I enclosed trailered my 65 T-bird 'vert for years and was always so fearful of such an event. My first loading was assisted by Haulmark Engineers at the factory in PA and they helped to perfectly balance my load, even where to put the car based on full tank of gas, vs. empty.
I am glad no one was hurt. Objects can be fixed. With your obvious skills I am sure she will be as good as new in no time flat.
9-15-2006 Back at it.
Stripped off the FRP from the damaged areas. Removed foam from wall cavaties. The foam stuck very well to exposed surfaces. did not stick to tar.
Found broken studs and bent door frame supports. Both simple parts to duplicate.
Once the bent supports were removed the door frame was simple to straighten but left some cosmetic scars.
A little hammer and dolly work.
Coarse through 600 grit sanding.
Some compounding. I think it looks fine.
I decided to replace the bottom 24" of Alclad in the damage area.
I measured a distance of 1 7/8" inch below a rivet line and created a stop for my circular saw with the aluminum-specific carbide blade. This cut line will become the top of a lapped joint, matching the joint 24" above it.
I learned a trick I'll pass on. If you put a piece of masking tape across the cut line the edge will be virtually burr-free.
I drilled out several hundred rivets and removed the damaged sheet metal, exposing the back side of the broken studs. The damaged metal will be hammered flat and used as a template for new Alclad material.
This is the piece I'm going to have to have made, or sacrifice an entire trailer for.
I'll remove the foam several inches above the new horizontal seam for better access for riveting.
Stripped off the FRP from the damaged areas. Removed foam from wall cavaties. The foam stuck very well to exposed surfaces. did not stick to tar.
Found broken studs and bent door frame supports. Both simple parts to duplicate.
Once the bent supports were removed the door frame was simple to straighten but left some cosmetic scars.
A little hammer and dolly work.
Coarse through 600 grit sanding.
Some compounding. I think it looks fine.
I decided to replace the bottom 24" of Alclad in the damage area.
I measured a distance of 1 7/8" inch below a rivet line and created a stop for my circular saw with the aluminum-specific carbide blade. This cut line will become the top of a lapped joint, matching the joint 24" above it.
I learned a trick I'll pass on. If you put a piece of masking tape across the cut line the edge will be virtually burr-free.
I drilled out several hundred rivets and removed the damaged sheet metal, exposing the back side of the broken studs. The damaged metal will be hammered flat and used as a template for new Alclad material.
This is the piece I'm going to have to have made, or sacrifice an entire trailer for.
I'll remove the foam several inches above the new horizontal seam for better access for riveting.
SMEAGEN
New LVC Member
wow
wow
wow
Last edited by a moderator:
cavemansmarkviii
Well-Known LVC Member
Unpleasant would be an understatement, but no one was seriously hurt. Your Porsche and trailer are on their way to recovery, with more time they will both be as beautiful as before. Sorry about the bad luck, but the best of luck to you Barry.
Thanks.
9-20-2006
Took the weekend off and drove the Mark II to the Glenmoor Gathering of Significant Automobiles in Canton, Ohio.
Back to work for a couple of hours. I decided that I wasn't going to sacrifice another trailer to repair mine so I hammered out the damage to the factory-formed radiused edge piece. I think it will turn out just fine. I used an electrical knockout punch outer shell as a mandril to reform the metal. With a bit more hammering and a bunch of sanding and some finish polish I think it will look just fine.
Kind of looks like I'm disecting an elephant.
9-20-2006
Took the weekend off and drove the Mark II to the Glenmoor Gathering of Significant Automobiles in Canton, Ohio.
Back to work for a couple of hours. I decided that I wasn't going to sacrifice another trailer to repair mine so I hammered out the damage to the factory-formed radiused edge piece. I think it will turn out just fine. I used an electrical knockout punch outer shell as a mandril to reform the metal. With a bit more hammering and a bunch of sanding and some finish polish I think it will look just fine.
Kind of looks like I'm disecting an elephant.
mespock
Marxists - Socialists
How's the Mark II wasn't it in the toy box when this all happend?
9-22-2006
Straightened the ramps by bracing the top of the ramp to the wall with a 2 x 4. Drilled a hole and installed an eyelet through the outside wall. Hooked a come-along to the furthest point on the main ramps and pulled them slightly beyond straight. Set the spring tension and the ramp system worked perfectly.
Straightened the ramps by bracing the top of the ramp to the wall with a 2 x 4. Drilled a hole and installed an eyelet through the outside wall. Hooked a come-along to the furthest point on the main ramps and pulled them slightly beyond straight. Set the spring tension and the ramp system worked perfectly.
9-23-2006
I figured out some of the dynamics of the crash by taking the trailer apart, piece by piece.
I couldn't figure out how the ramps got so badly bent. If you look to the upper left ramp you'll see the pulley that the garage door springs attach to. There's a perfect imprint of that pully in the white panel next to it.
What I can discern is that the Porsche stayed put until I hit the concrete median. It slid sideways with that impact, but didn't hit the wall. When I hit the guard rail the impact was much greater and the restraints tore loose allowing the passenger side of the Porsche to impact the inside of the trailer wall. That impact pulled the trailer top over so far that the opposite wall pushed the ramps out of whack. It also left the rear opening 3/8" out of square.
I used the same method I used to straighten the ramps to straighten the body. I made a "hand" that would grasp the top of the trailer and pull it up straight. I fitted a piece of wood to a piece of Unistrut. The "hand" would distribute its pull over a 24" area but I didn't want to scuff or dent the polished metal so I covered it in polishing cloths.
I installed it in the appropriated location and drilled another hole in the side wall to set an anchor to attach the come-along.
I had to pull the body back 3" in order to restore the 3/8" gap. The structure is so strong I could hardly get it to budge. After several attempts it sprung back into the proper configuration. All that to move the trailer 3/8".
I removed the damaged lower trim piece from the drivers side and hammered it out smooth and sanded it out in preparation for polish.
I figured out some of the dynamics of the crash by taking the trailer apart, piece by piece.
I couldn't figure out how the ramps got so badly bent. If you look to the upper left ramp you'll see the pulley that the garage door springs attach to. There's a perfect imprint of that pully in the white panel next to it.
What I can discern is that the Porsche stayed put until I hit the concrete median. It slid sideways with that impact, but didn't hit the wall. When I hit the guard rail the impact was much greater and the restraints tore loose allowing the passenger side of the Porsche to impact the inside of the trailer wall. That impact pulled the trailer top over so far that the opposite wall pushed the ramps out of whack. It also left the rear opening 3/8" out of square.
I used the same method I used to straighten the ramps to straighten the body. I made a "hand" that would grasp the top of the trailer and pull it up straight. I fitted a piece of wood to a piece of Unistrut. The "hand" would distribute its pull over a 24" area but I didn't want to scuff or dent the polished metal so I covered it in polishing cloths.
I installed it in the appropriated location and drilled another hole in the side wall to set an anchor to attach the come-along.
I had to pull the body back 3" in order to restore the 3/8" gap. The structure is so strong I could hardly get it to budge. After several attempts it sprung back into the proper configuration. All that to move the trailer 3/8".
I removed the damaged lower trim piece from the drivers side and hammered it out smooth and sanded it out in preparation for polish.
9-24-2006 Reassembly
After straightening out the wall bent outward by impacting the ramps, everything fell back into place. The door gaps are now correct and everything operates smoothly.
The side panel still has a couple of deep scratches but they are barely visable in the polished surface. The side marker light was pressed into the surface of the sheet metal. With the trim removed it was an easy matter to flatten the metal after removing its temper with localized heat. I've ordered a new light for each side.
Test fit the bumped and sanded lower trim piece and it fit perfectly. I'll polish it after it's been riveted. The rivet heads have a coating that needs to be polished off.
I should be able to start fitting sheet metal on the other side soon.
After straightening out the wall bent outward by impacting the ramps, everything fell back into place. The door gaps are now correct and everything operates smoothly.
The side panel still has a couple of deep scratches but they are barely visable in the polished surface. The side marker light was pressed into the surface of the sheet metal. With the trim removed it was an easy matter to flatten the metal after removing its temper with localized heat. I've ordered a new light for each side.
Test fit the bumped and sanded lower trim piece and it fit perfectly. I'll polish it after it's been riveted. The rivet heads have a coating that needs to be polished off.
I should be able to start fitting sheet metal on the other side soon.
9-25-2006
Went to visit the Porsche today. I'd say it's coming along nicely. The front suspension has been repaired and they are still searching for a new aluminum drum. I've decided to have the entire car stripped and repainted. I'm being told that the paints they are allowed to use today are incompatable with blending into a lacquered finish.
If the rest of the car is as rust free as this side it'll be worth it to have a flawless paint job.
Went to visit the Porsche today. I'd say it's coming along nicely. The front suspension has been repaired and they are still searching for a new aluminum drum. I've decided to have the entire car stripped and repainted. I'm being told that the paints they are allowed to use today are incompatable with blending into a lacquered finish.
If the rest of the car is as rust free as this side it'll be worth it to have a flawless paint job.
cavemansmarkviii
Well-Known LVC Member
Barry, you obviously don't live on the coast because rust free isn't in our vocabulary around here.
Lots of water near-by but no saltwater. We get a healthy dose of salt on our roads though. This car will be put away all winter. They may have it all winter.
9-26-2006
A 48" x 144" sheet of Alclad showed up today. It was rolled into an 18" diameter cylinder. I took it to my local fab shop where they dropped everything and chopped it into the three pieces I need to repair the walls and reskin the rear door.
I ordered the aluminum with a protective film to protect it in handling and installation. I used the damaged panel as a template, I had the fab shop run it through a roller to flatten it.
I secured the new studs to the baseplate with some angle iron brackets. The entire rear area is now prepped to accept the new sheet metal. I've drilled out all the rivets so that I can slip the new metal underneath the cut edge creating a new overlapping seam. Two new rivets will be installed in-between each existing rivet location duplicating the pattern in the seam above.
9-26-2006
A 48" x 144" sheet of Alclad showed up today. It was rolled into an 18" diameter cylinder. I took it to my local fab shop where they dropped everything and chopped it into the three pieces I need to repair the walls and reskin the rear door.
I ordered the aluminum with a protective film to protect it in handling and installation. I used the damaged panel as a template, I had the fab shop run it through a roller to flatten it.
I secured the new studs to the baseplate with some angle iron brackets. The entire rear area is now prepped to accept the new sheet metal. I've drilled out all the rivets so that I can slip the new metal underneath the cut edge creating a new overlapping seam. Two new rivets will be installed in-between each existing rivet location duplicating the pattern in the seam above.
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm also glad to see that your getting everything fixed up. good luck with it.