Unhooking sway bars for dragging

MrWilson

MrWilson

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I have a few oppinions on this topic, and i am kind of swayed (pun intended, :P) to one side of the argument myself. What is the general consensus about unhooking the swaybar links on the rear bar, and taking off the front bar for dragging? Is the gain worth the effort, little as it may be? Has anyone tested the theory out on the mark?
 
I haven't done any experimenting with my swaybars at the track.

The oldschool training would say to pull the front swaybar, both for reaction and weight savings. You're not gonna be able to do that AT the track and I'm not sure I would want to ride on the street with no front swaybar, so the only alternative is to disconnect the endlinks and tie the ends of the bar up.

I do not know, but I have been told to disconnect the rear bar as well as the IRS torque reaction at launch is different from a solid axle vehicle.

As far as being worth it, ANY gain at the track is an advantage when you're measuring victories in the hundredths and even thousandths of a second. ;)
 
driller said:
As far as being worth it, ANY gain at the track is an advantage when you're measuring victories in the hundredths and even thousandths of a second. ;)
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Most definatly
driller said:
I do not know, but I have been told to disconnect the rear bar as well as the IRS torque reaction at launch is different from a solid axle vehicle.
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I tried that on one run last night, it did feel diffrent, and i didnt spin at all, so i think im gonna fool arround with disconnecting the rear bar again.
 
With a lowered car (tires barely into wheel wells) and a 1 1/4" rear bar, with proper length bolts the rear of the car firms up quite a bit. Disconnecting the bar IMO would allow the rear of the car to squat ALOT more helping aid your wheelspin.

Lol I've actually been thinking about that myself after noticing how firm the rear is after I replaced the bolts to level the swaybar out after lowering. With the 275's I can corner like I'm on rails- which is nice on the street but, wouldn't be beneficial at the track I'm not thinking.

I have a friend with an '86 buick grand national, 455. Hot Rod magazine left a very short note about his car after seeing him at the track explaining that he helped his E.T's by taking out the front shocks, and rolling down the track on just springs. The front tires stay on the ground for the most part while the whole front of the car touched the sky, shifting nearly all the car's weight to the rear. I'm sure disconnecting the front bar would also help in the same manner.
 
torquemonkey said:
Yes, disconnect the front anti-sway bar, it is worth the effort.
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???? anyone experiment with this at all?????

just to clarify, this is the bar that his higher, there are two bars in the front, one goes through the LCA (the bottom bar) we're talking about the top bar correct.?
 
Lol. Yes! The sway bar is that big thick one that runs from one side of the car to the other, those other bars you mention are your strut rods - there to support the LCA. DO NOT remove those!!!
 
93' Blue on blue said:
Lol. Yes! The sway bar is that big thick one that runs from one side of the car to the other, those other bars you mention are your strut rods - there to support the LCA. DO NOT remove those!!!
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so unhooking the sway bar... whats the verdict? if its neccessary for alignment or just plain neccessary ??
 
I can't see a sway bar being needed for doing an alignment check, but why would you wanna un hook it? It will mess up its street handling.
 
i dunno! good question, i searched and stumbled upon this post. as far as the alignment - thats what the shop wrote, maybe they wanted to have it all fixed up right before they align it. makes sense.... but unhooking the front sway bar for drag racing ???
 
yea, sway bar links will be on asap - its crappy weather out, im not driving it hard, thats what the jeeps for :-)
 
Leave the sway bar alone. Seriously, have you guys ever work on the front end of one of these cars? It's not like you can just pop it off an on at will. I don't think you can even detach the end links from the spindle without releasing the spindle from the upper control arm.

Thomas
 
Thomas A said:
Leave the sway bar alone. Seriously, have you guys ever work on the front end of one of these cars? It's not like you can just pop it off an on at will. I don't think you can even detach the end links from the spindle without releasing the spindle from the upper control arm.

Thomas
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well my whole dilemma is that my car does not have the end links, so the sway bar is detatched. The shop wanted on them on before they did an alignment. so after reading this thread about someone actually disconnecting them for performance i become a skeptic:shifty:

then it became a thought ok, if im going to put these end links back on to reattached the sway bar - which brand to buy? anyone go with a less expensive brand except for TRW or MOOG? - theres this brand called falcon - they're website looks pretty good, A&A autoparts only carries these and they are half the price and supposed to be "improved":)
 
I wouldn't want to drive my car down the road without the end links there. Just get the TRW's and be done with it. I have rebuilt several different cars front ends and use all TRW stuff, and haven't had any issues.

Thomas
 
You trying to be cheap again Abe? Lol.

Sure, they both do the same thing but im willing to bet the expensive ones will last alot longer!
 
93' Blue on blue said:
You trying to be cheap again Abe? Lol.

Sure, they both do the same thing but im willing to bet the expensive ones will last alot longer!
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Lol i agree, buttttt

they both do the SAME thing. They have a LIFETIME warranty... hmmmmm plus i have some sources that tell me its ok to go "cheap" this time.

and it looks like a breeze to install.
 
No, most people choose not to install junk parts on there cars. When it comes to front end parts on these cars, you get what you pay for.

/thread

Thomas
 
Thomas A said:
No, most people choose not to install junk parts on there cars. When it comes to front end parts on these cars, you get what you pay for.

/thread

Thomas
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sarcasm, funny :D

"junk" is a strong word for a part thats not a brand name. It's like drinking RC cola instead of Pepsi or Coke...

front end parts yes, i bought the TRW lower control arms - 55 bucks each in my opinion is pretty fair. But 100 bucks for a part that isnt really that neccessary for driving (bring it on ive driven 6K with out them no problem) i dont think a part that just because its half the price is "junk"
 
Seems to me that you have already made up your mind, so there really is not point in asking what others would suggest.

Thomas
 
Indeed! Abe: you're a stubborn bugger! Lol.

By all means, get the cheap ones, just be aware that they will likely not last as long / possibly FAIL - you always get what you pay for when it comes to precision engineered products.

I guarantee your car does not handle or corner as well as a car with a CONNECTED sway bar, therefore it is a neccessary thing - especially when an unplanned evasive maneuver is required!

I had a front sway bar snap once on a Nissan i owned - the sudden imbalance sent me sideways at around 100 mph! Lol. They are a CRITICAL load bearing part! Anyway, your car will handle better when its connected, regardless of the links you choose.
 
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