Ugh, this car is starting to piss me off!

[LaserSVT]

The car has been so good to me until I joined this site and now it seems to be falling apart.
You guys know about all the suspension work I have done. Then I started getting the transmission error and am 90% sure its do to heat so I am ordering a B&M cooler, the larger one they make thats not a tube/fin design so I don't have pressure issues.
Well today it decided to do three bad things. Out of nowhere I got a check engine light so I have to take it to Autozone tomorrow and have the code read. I bet its gonna be a bank one or two lean code. It gave them to me when I first got the car but then one day just stopped. I have checked all the vacuum lines and there is not a leak anywhere. The injectors and pump are new and there is never any pinging or running issues so IDK what it causing the lean condition.

Well then the cruise decided to stop working again. I think it came unplugged. I pulled on the cable and could see something moving around in the fender so tomorrow I will jack it up and pull off the liner and bolt it back up. I have been driving on some ruff roads lately and I think it rattled itself loose.


The really bad issue is the loud "POP" I heard followed by a wobbly seat. I just pulled the seat out and can see a crack all the way through the seat track where it snapped in half. Now I am gonna have to buy a new seat track. There goes my new exhaust for next week.

Damn car.

 

[rayner601]

Damn cuz....when it rains, it pours Sorry about your run of less than good luck. It will get better though

 

[LaserSVT]

Well I just got done going through the cruise controll.
Maybe you can give me a hand with this. I checked the fuse and its good (I think the climate control is on the same one anyway) I checked the switch that hooks to the brake pedal. I thought there was one for the brakes and another for the cruise cancel but they appear to be one in the same. Anyway my brake lights go on and off just fine so I assume the switch is fine. I checked the parking brake switch to make sure it was not triggering and its good too. I took off the splash shield and unplugged the cruise harness and cleaned the contacts ( what are contacts again? ). The cable is also fine and shows no signs of wear.

The cruise was working just fine and I got to my destination. When I started back up and went to engage the cruise it would not turn on at all.
So am I correct in assuming that either A: The switch went bad on the steering wheel, or B: the cruise module itself went out?

 

[02LS8Lincoln]

Laser u got full coverage on that baby?

 

[lincolnboy]

Well I just got done going through the cruise controll.
Maybe you can give me a hand with this. I checked the fuse and its good (I think the climate control is on the same one anyway) I checked the switch that hooks to the brake pedal. I thought there was one for the brakes and another for the cruise cancel but they appear to be one in the same. Anyway my brake lights go on and off just fine so I assume the switch is fine. I checked the parking brake switch to make sure it was not triggering and its good too. I took off the splash shield and unplugged the cruise harness and cleaned the contacts ( what are contacts again? ). The cable is also fine and shows no signs of wear.

The cruise was working just fine and I got to my destination. When I started back up and went to engage the cruise it would not turn on at all.
So am I correct in assuming that either A: The switch went bad on the steering wheel, or B: the cruise module itself went out?

our cars do have a recall on the cruise control...not sure what parts. i would call your local ford dealer and ask..

 

[lincolnboy]

its an 12 yr old car ...:q:q:q:q going to break....

 

[LaserSVT]

Crap! I did get a notice from Ford a year ago about a cruise control recall. Someone on Markviii.org said it was a fire issue but they 97-98s didn't suffer from it. So I just ignored it.

I completely forgot about the new service manual I got on here. I just looked it up and its very descriptive in how to troubleshoot the cruise on the car. So tomorrow I will take the splash shield off again and remove the plug and go through their procedure. If that don't work then I will call up the Ford dealer and ask if it still has the recall.

That service manual is unbelievably helpful, marked8 is teh man!

Wish it would give me an idea though for the "Check Transmission" warning but I am pretty sure that is just from getting too hot when stuck in traffic for a long time. A/C on max, 102* out, stock cooling system, sucking the hot air from the car in front of me was just too much and triggered the temp sensor for the trans. The new trans cooler should help that. Then I will either do the Griffin or Terminator rad modification with a 160* T-stat. Its Texas so I am sure the car can benefit from it.

 

[rayner601]

It could be one of a few things. First that stands out in my mind is the clockspring. You can have a broken circuit in the clockspring and not trigger the air bag light. If the horn works, then the circuit to power is good. You will need to check the circuit from the CC module to the clockspring to see if the other side is good. Disconnect the battery. Wait 5 min and then remove the driver's airbag. Behind the airbag, there's a connector that has a O and a R/BK wire in it. Disconnect this connector and place the + lead of a Volt/Ohm meter on the O wire going TO the cc switch assy. Then place the - lead on the R/BK wire going to the cc switch assy. Place the Meter to the Ohms position. Without pressing ANY buttons you should be reading OL or infinity or the needle (if you have the cheapie or older one) will be all the way to the right of the scale. Press the RESUME button. You should get 2200 ohms. Press the SET/ACCEL and you should get 680 ohms. Press the COAST button and you should get 120 ohms. If you get any reading that is not within 5% of those values for the button depressed, replace the switch. If those are good, connect that connector and find the connectors under the column on a black junction box that is clipped to the column. Look for 2 wires, one is O and the other one is LB/BK. They will be in the same connector. You can leave the connector connected and backprobe the wires and get a good reading. Press each of the switches as above and note the readings. The on switch will give a "open" or infinity or OL reading. The off switch will give a 0 ohm reading when pressed. The values should be the same or within 5% as they were when you checked them at the switch. If they are not, then replace the clockspring. If so, move to the CC module. Find the O and LB/BK wires. Disconnect the connector and connect + probe to O and LB/BK to -. Repeat above switch depression sequence. The readings should be the same or within 5% of the first test. If not, you have an open/short between that connector and the clockspring junction box connector. If they are good, then replace the CC module.

Now with all that being said, and now it hits me that this and the flashing OD light may have something in common, the VSS.

Oh, yeah, O=orange, LB/BK=light blue/black, R/BK=red/black

Sorry for the long post, I didn't know your electrical skills and didn't want to talk over your head

Need anything else, just holler....

 

[LaserSVT]

its an 12 yr old car ...:q:q:q:q going to break....

I know and expect it. I just hate it when I don't know what the cause is.
It also is a bummer because until a couple months ago I could always say how reliable and problem free my Mark has been. This site jinxed me cause ever since I became member stuff has been breaking left and right. :lol:

ITS ALL YOUR GUYS FAULT!! rabble rabble rabble!


JK, you guys have been great and I know its just timing. The check engine light was something that went away a long time ago so I knew it would come back. That one bugs me cause I cant figure out why it gets the random bank two lean code and about 1/3 as often it gets the bank one lean code. The trans issue should be fixed next week and at least the trans shifts perfect all the time. The suspension is all new as are the bushings. The reason the seat broke is I am a fat ass and plop in the seat when I get in. The motors were worn anyway so now I have an excuse to replace it.
The only issue left is the cruise and it just bugs me cause I don't know whats wrong yet but after I run the checks tomorrow I should be in teh know.

 

[LaserSVT]

It could be one of a few things. First that stands out in my mind is the clockspring. You can have a broken circuit in the clockspring and not trigger the air bag light. If the horn works, then the circuit to power is good. You will need to check the circuit from the CC module to the clockspring to see if the other side is good. Disconnect the battery. Wait 5 min and then remove the driver's airbag. Behind the airbag, there's a connector that has a O and a R/BK wire in it. Disconnect this connector and place the + lead of a Volt/Ohm meter on the O wire going TO the cc switch assy. Then place the - lead on the R/BK wire going to the cc switch assy. Place the Meter to the Ohms position. Without pressing ANY buttons you should be reading OL or infinity or the needle (if you have the cheapie or older one) will be all the way to the right of the scale. Press the RESUME button. You should get 2200 ohms. Press the SET/ACCEL and you should get 680 ohms. Press the COAST button and you should get 120 ohms. If you get any reading that is not within 5% of those values for the button depressed, replace the switch. If those are good, connect that connector and find the connectors under the column on a black junction box that is clipped to the column. Look for 2 wires, one is O and the other one is LB/BK. They will be in the same connector. You can leave the connector connected and backprobe the wires and get a good reading. Press each of the switches as above and note the readings. The on switch will give a "open" or infinity or OL reading. The off switch will give a 0 ohm reading when pressed. The values should be the same or within 5% as they were when you checked them at the switch. If they are not, then replace the clockspring. If so, move to the CC module. Find the O and LB/BK wires. Disconnect the connector and connect + probe to O and LB/BK to -. Repeat above switch depression sequence. The readings should be the same or within 5% of the first test. If not, you have an open/short between that connector and the clockspring junction box connector. If they are good, then replace the CC module.

Now with all that being said, and now it hits me that this and the flashing OD light may have something in common, the VSS.

Oh, yeah, O=orange, LB/BK=light blue/black, R/BK=red/black

Sorry for the long post, I didn't know your electrical skills and didn't want to talk over your head

Need anything else, just holler....

Excellent info man. Thanks allot and I am pretty good with automotive electronics. I did car stereos for over 15years at the #1 shop in Hawaii.
I was wondering about the VSS and didnt know if it also effected the cruise controll. I can go through all the test procedures tomorrow and if they all come back clean then I will get a new VSS as they are fairly cheap.

Thanks again buddy.

 

[lincolnboy]

I know and expect it. I just hate it when I don't know what the cause is.
It also is a bummer because until a couple months ago I could always say how reliable and problem free my Mark has been. This site jinxed me cause ever since I became member stuff has been breaking left and right. :lol:

hell my big dog motorcycle was a :q:q:q:q from the get go. big dog wiring is crap and alot of BD have to have the whole wiring redone...and its only a 5 yr old bike. my headlight went out..on it and could be many thing .at time it just dies while riding and just starting not starting at start up.....then it can run fine for hours and days..then to :q:q:q:qs one day

 

[rayner601]

Crap! I did get a notice from Ford a year ago about a cruise control recall. Someone on Markviii.org said it was a fire issue but they 97-98s didn't suffer from it. So I just ignored it.

The 97s are included and do pose a fire hazard. If it's leaking, that may stop your cruise as well. I forgot about that switch and would advise you to check it for leaking first.

Wish it would give me an idea though for the "Check Transmission" warning but I am pretty sure that is just from getting too hot when stuck in traffic for a long time. A/C on max, 102* out, stock cooling system, sucking the hot air from the car in front of me was just too much and triggered the temp sensor for the trans. The new trans cooler should help that. Then I will either do the Griffin or Terminator rad modification with a 160* T-stat. Its Texas so I am sure the car can benefit from it.

If the trans is overheating, the M/C will display TRANSMISSION OVERHEAT the CHECK TRANSMISSION is displayed when the PCM detects an internal fault in the trans.

 

[LaserSVT]

The 97s are included and do pose a fire hazard. If it's leaking, that may stop your cruise as well. I forgot about that switch and would advise you to check it for leaking first.

Leaking? So the recall is for the VSS? I thought it was the brake fluid level sensor that was the fire issue.

If the trans is overheating, the M/C will display TRANSMISSION OVERHEAT the CHECK TRANSMISSION is displayed when the PCM detects an internal fault in the trans.

Dont tell me that, I could cry. I cant afford to do a trans rebuild right now.
When I say the trans works perfect I do mean perfect. It does not do anything at all to indicate a failure.

I hope you are right with the other part instead. Since the cruise is not working and I had that flashing OD light when I got the error then I hope its justthe VSS. Hell they are only $20 and I still have $10 left on my O'Reilly card so I could go buy that anyway and keep my fingers crossed.

 

[rayner601]

Naww, the CC brake switch is the fire hazard (above the air ride compressor in the hard brake line).

Does the speedo get nuts at times? If it does, that's a sure sign of a bad VSS.

The check trans message could be anything from excessive t/c slip, bad temp sensor, bad vss, bad solenoid, you name it if it's monitored by the PCM. I really really really hope that it's nothing major.

 

[LaserSVT]

No, the speedo never goes crazy at all. It cant show speed below 5mph though. Under 5mph causes it to bounce between 0 and 5 but its rock solid after that.

I thought the VSS was only for the computer in these cars. I thought the speedo got its reading from the wheel speed sensors.

The solinoid is newish and I watch my gauges like a hawk so I know it was not slipping the TC any more or less then usual. If it was a bad temp sensor then wouldnt it cause a transmission temp warning instead of a check transmission warning?

Like I said, I will just run the pin test that the service manuel says to do and if it all checks out then I will get a new VSS from O'Reilly tomorrow. Ifthatdont work then I am not sure what to do next but I will cross that bridge when I get there.
I am still going to get the trans cooler next week as it just makes sense to have one on a car that size and in this heat.

 

[Frogman]

Get yourself a tranny cooler for a 6 Liter Powerstroke. You'll never have tranny temp issues again... providing something else isn't broken.

Max has a very good price on them. I can't remember what I paid for one when I bought it from him, but IIRC it was less than 200 clams.

 

[rayner601]

No, the speedo never goes crazy at all. It cant show speed below 5mph though. Under 5mph causes it to bounce between 0 and 5 but its rock solid after that.

That's normal

I thought the VSS was only for the computer in these cars. I thought the speedo got its reading from the wheel speed sensors.

Actually the speed sensor is feeding the CC and ABS modules directly. The ABS module then buffers and converts the speed signal from a variable frequency A/C signal to a pulsed DC signal and sent to the PCM

If it was a bad temp sensor then wouldnt it cause a transmission temp warning instead of a check transmission warning?

An open or shorted temp sensor won't set the overheat warning

I am still going to get the trans cooler next week as it just makes sense to have one on a car that size and in this heat.

I need to get off my but and do that to mine as well.

Ok, I'll leave you alone for a while

 

[LaserSVT]

rayner you have been a tremendous help! Frogman has been great too. I am gonna do all this tomorrow. First I will do the sitch test to make sure the steering wheel controlls are good, thanks for the ohm readings to look for. If thats cool then I will do the pin test as the service manual says to do. Gotta get to the module in the fender again to do the testing but it shows which pin should have power and has a nice menu setup to guide you for each step if there is power or not on each test point.

But the more I think about it the more I want to lean towards the VSS. Cause the last time the trans warning came on my cruise controll didnt work eaither so I though for sure it was related but then the next time I got the trans warning my cruise still worked. Today the cruise stopped working but I havent gotten a "Check Transmission" warning.

Damn car is screwing with me.

 

[LaserSVT]

I went and did the testing this morning and it is the deactivation switch that has gone bad. It also is the recall issue so it looks like it will be fixed by Ford for free.

 

[rayner601]

WHOOO HOT DAMN!!! At least it isn't gonna cost you $$...Maybe your luck's changing, I hope

 

[XLRVIII]

Crap! I did get a notice from Ford a year ago about a cruise control recall. Someone on Markviii.org said it was a fire issue but they 97-98s didn't suffer from it. So I just ignored it.

You should you yourself a favor and delete that site from your bookmarks.

They gave you very very bad and dangerous information.

ALL fords use the same danged CC deactivation switch.

the misinformation you received from that site could have cost you
1 your car
2. your house if it's a garaged car
3 your LIFE if #2 applies

Markviii.org FTL!!!!!

 

[LaserSVT]

Alright I just got back and Ford replaced the recall CC deactivation part. I saw the service tech go out with a new wire harness but didnt see any sensors to go with it. In any case they swapped it out in under 20 minutes.
While I was waiting I was looking at the new Mustang GT and a salesman comes out and starts his spiel. I explained I am not buying a new car just waiting for mine. I did say how much I liked the new GT I was looking at and this ass hat says "Yup, thats the new GT500 with 500 HP" I looked at him and laughed in his face! I said "No, this is a GT that does not even have the Premium package. It has a 3V 4.6 SOHC with 315hp. The GT500 has a different facia, rear bumper, hood and most importantly it has a 5.4 DOHC with a supercharger and makes 540HP not 500." then they paged me to say my car was done. :lol:



Anyway back to the topic at hand. The recall did not fix my problem. On the way to the Ford dealer the cruise did work but varied about 5mph in its setting. Then I got the check trans followed by check engine and the cruise stopped working. I went to O'Reiily and purchased a VSS and then went to Autozone to have the code read. The scanner said VSS mailfunction so that seems to be the problem. After the car cools off I will go slap in the new one and give it a test drive. I am fairly certain this will correct my issue though.
Fortunatly there was not a lean code only the VSS so I think it will be all good.

I also saw the exhaust shop and showed him the break in the seat. He said if I pull it apart he will weld it up for $15

I also told him about the exhaust I am gonna get and he said $100-$120 to install it if all he has to do is cut the new pipes to length, weld on new hangers and make a short section of pipe to go from the cats to the new double x pipe from Geno. So it sounds like a good deal. $280 for the exhaust from Geno, $120 for the pre bent pipe kit that goes from the x pipe to the mufflers and another $120 for installation. I think its well worth it.

 

[XLRVIII]

Alright I just got back and Ford replaced the recall CC deactivation part. I saw the service tech go out with a new wire harness but didnt see any sensors to go with it.

They dont replace the actual part that fails, they only replace the wire loom that leads to the defective part.

The new upgraded wire loom has a fuseable link in it, so when/if the pressure sensor fails it wont short out and burn down the car.

You may still have a bad brake activation sensor.

 

[rayner601]

If it is leaking they will replace it. If not then Tommy's right, they won't. Guess it's Ford's way of saving a buck or two, but I don't blame them. That buck or two would add up quick.

 

[LaserSVT]

Well the VSS was the problem.... only it wasnt the problem.

When I took off the old one it was a little wet with trans fluid. It was readily apparent the o-ring on the old VSS was cracked and leaking a very minute ammount. The last 1" of exposed wire no longer has a jacket on it and the wires were touching, guess the heat and trans fluid ate the wire jacket where it was not protected by the wire loom. I cleaned it all up and wrapped each side individually with electrical tape then wraped them both with a third layer of tape and then a zip tie so that the heat and moisture does not cause the tape to fall off. Since I had it and the old ones o-ring was bad I still put in the new VSS and took it for a ride. Cruise worked perfectly without fluctuating at all and no more error lights. I was able to trigger the "Check Transmission" light before by turning off the TC and lighting up the tires so I tried that again a few times and still no light or errors.

After seeingthe exposed wires touching each other I knew that it would fix the issue. I still have to do the same for the power steering connection too. I noticed when changing the strut rod bushings that the last 1/2" was exposed and they were tuching. I seperated them but forgot to tape them up as well.



That reminds me, the power steering line that connects to the bottom of the pump and then runs across the nose under the radiator is loose and leaks a little at the pump where it connects. I cant make it any tighter at all but the hose moves freely by hand. I know it was a PITA to heat up the teflon washer to fit on that damn thing and obviously its not sealing. Can I just fit an o-ring on the fitting or it the line just worn and I need to get a new one or what?