turn Ignition key, nothing

M

mmtphoto

Well-Known LVC Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
446
Reaction score
0
Location
glenside
I was doing a lot of driving in my 96 mark yesterday, and it was fairly hot
here yesterday, 93 degrees-the temp gauge ran up around the 'R', but it ran pretty good all day. I have added recently a new MLPS switch, and a new
intake tube with a cone filter instead of the enclosed factory box. I also removed the factory mufflers and now just have 2 1/4 pipes with new split tips in their place.

When it started to run 'hotter' than it usually does (it usually runs around the 'A' or 'M'), I periodically turned off the AC, and it did seem to cool it off, dropping the reading from the high side of 'R' to the high side of 'M'. In between stops, the car sat for anywhere from 20 minutes to maybe an hour and a half. When I got to the final location, I parked, and it sat for maybe 10 minutes and I went to start it to move it to a different location in the parking lot-turned the key, NO starter. I was in park. I moved it to neutral and tried it again-nothing. I did have battery (radio worked), and interior light was on. After about a half hour, I tried again, and it started right up, no problem.

Starter blanket needed, maybe? Is the starter relay on the starter itself? Is the starter fairly easy to get to/remove? Could the new MLPS be the problem? It was kind of a bitch to install with the exhaust in the way, but I did have it lined up to the neutral line, however it did change the way the trans acts-when i take it out of 'D' and put the shifter in '1' or '2', it seems to be in second only and I have to put the shifter back in 'N' to get the trans to shift normally..

Aside from the fact I like this car, it has to be dependable-I was working and have to be able to get from A to B without fail-it did not affect my job yesterday since I was already at the location I needed to be at, but if it happened under other circumstances, it would be a major problem.

No MIL, but I am going to scan it to see if it has any codes stored anyway. Any advise is appreciated-thanks.
 
Hey MMTPHOTO, Sure sounds like the MLPS switch, (neutral safety switch and a little more). On my 93 I changed to the newer one, better gasket and sealed better than the 93's and 94's, but if they take a fit, you can turn the key to start and you get nothing. The starter is on the lower passenger side and I think you can get it from underneath but if I remember correctly, when I had the passenger wheel well liner out it looked a bit easier to get at and if you meant the solenoid, it's on top of the starter.
I still have the chip that you sold me out of your blue 93, didn't you chip the 96? It should sound good with the new intake and the exhaust that you did. Hope you find the problem with that great looking red 96.:)
 
Hey John, thanks for the reply-I just checked to see if I got any codes, nada-
I am going to remove and check the MPLS again to see if I had done something wrong, like thinking I have the neutral lined up when it's not, while I'm under it I am going to look at the starter to see how many years it'll take off my life if I decide to remove it-I might still do some sort of blanket for the starter if it looks possible and easy, since that seems to be what caused the problem (when real hot, no start, no nothing-I have a GTO that did that until I blanketed it)
I did chip this one, and with the exhaust and intake, it does sound great-my wife thinks it's too loud, so it is probably just about right...I am going to put up some photos later, it's getting there-Mike
 
quick question, when I remove the MPLS and line up the line for neutral with the mark on the housing, I have to have the shifter in neutral, correct?
 
removed the MLPS and it was slightly off (barely)-i reinstalled it and now it will shift manually (going through 1. 2 and D all work as they should), so I hope this was the reason for the 'no start' yesterday-
I did look at the starter and it does look like it could use a blanket, the membrane paint that was on it is all flaked off and the casing is rusted-might just pull it and get it redone by a guy I know in the business. The starter looks like it's not too bad to replace, has anyone ever done a remote solenoid on one of these? thanks
 
Similar thing happened to me. I drove to the store. Parked the car did my shoppin got in and no start. The lights and radio worked. I then got out of the car closed the door used the key to lock and then unlock the car and it has never happened again?????
 
Ya know, Sal, I never thought of that-maybe it did have something to do with the alarm interlock?
It seemed kind of strange, i havn't had this one that long and have only put about 2000 miles on it since last September-It ddn't have the solinoid 'click' like it was a bad or low battery, just nothing. I recently replaced the MLPS hoping it would improve the sloppy shifting, and havn't driven it much since taking it out the other day and realigning the neutral notch. I have a job pretty far away coming up in mid june and was going to take it, but if I got stuck in the middle of it, it would be a disaster-If it happens again before then, I'll try that too-thanks
 
My 93 is doing the Turn Ignition nothing also, like one start in 8. Had the lock clylinder removed and the tab is still their, just has some play.
Should I replace the MLPS? Dont want to throw parts at it I dont need.

David
 
this is an old post, i never did find out what caused that no start back in May-it did it once. I did realign the Mlps that I had just installed back then, that may have caused the problem, and the other suggestion about the alarm is valid since it seems to happen to others on this forum. if this happens once in eight tries like you describe, I'd be suspicious of a battery connection, or a bad solinoid possibly.
 
Its either the starter or starter solenoid. Replace the starter and starter solenoid at the same time and I bet the problem is solved. I went through the exact same thing on a 94 GT I had and the 97 LSC I have now.

Both cars would start fine 90% and then when I would be in a hurry the starter wouldn't turn at all.
 
I double checked my battery connections and the positive lead was connected with one loose bolt, it was all wraped up with electrical tape and peeled it all back, cleaned some corrosion off and reattached with both bolts. Mark was dead in the driveway, been starting several times now.
If it acts up again will lean towards the starter.

David
 
Does it sound like it is trying to start, but either not getting fuel, or not getting spark? If that is the case it could be the cam sensor and or the crank sensor going bad. Both parts are like $20-30 each, and very easy to replace. If that is the problem, I would replace both of them. Also, some members have found out that the wiring for one or the other has gone bad as well. I would look there.
 
When it acts up, every system is dead, it clicks one time and then every thing is black.
Today after cleaning the batt connectors it is still starting normally, when the car is dead the batt is still showing 12.5.
Not sure if a bad starter would zap every system.
Sorry if I sound like a pilot, but I are one.

David
 
Sorry, my response was to the original post. But, yours is most likely due to bad connections at the battery. If you turn the key and nothing happens, and then see that the battery has 12.5 volts, then it is a connection problem with the terminals. I found that my factory ones were not doing a good enuf job (felt tight, but you could twist them anyways), so I replaced mine with some aftermarket stereo units.....problem never came back.
 
check the connections at the starter the batt + and the "s-wire" (the small wire at the starter) sounds like high resistance down there to me
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 130 (members: 0, guests: 130)
Back
Top