So I went to a trust worthy auto shop to get my car checked out and the guy took a look at it and he told me for a turn up, oil change and rear brake change labor it will cost almost a grand ($925). I was just wondering if this is a reasonable price or should I go somewhere else. I don't want to do it myself cause I have no idea what I'll be doing lol
Tune up prices
- Thread starter Becky04LS
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Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
I t has been decades since I had a full tuneup, brakes and oil change at a dealer but this CAN BE about right depending on what they do.
Wild guess is that they are replacing the spark plugs. If they did that , they have done 90% of the work required to change the COPs(ignition Coil On Plug), a GOOD idea if it hasn't been done in the recent past. COPs have to be removed to replace the plugs so might as well do it. I have heard doing the coils is around $1,000 itself at dealers. Something like $400+ just in parts depending OEM etc. This is a time consuming pita job but any decent mechanic can do it. If you have a significant other, this would be a good opportunity for him to prove his mechanical and amorous metal.
A brake job can be as low as say $100 to over $1000 for front and rear so assuming just rears I would guess you are paying for a "normal" brake job, ie no new components other than pads and maybe turning the rotors. Parts alone would be $50 to $100 depending. Turning rotors I think is around $25 each, depends.
Oil Change at this point is almost a gimme. Usually dealers charge about $50 for quick change regular oil or maybe $100ish for synthetic. Do it yourself is maybe $50 total with semi syn or full syn. This is one of those jobs everyone is capable of and can be taught or talked thru.
For a grand I would guess you are getting a quickie oil change with the semi synthetic(good stuff BTW), at least plugs and maybe the coils, maybe a quick "tuneup in a can" and a simple no frills rear brake job.
So probably about right if they are doing what I said. There is a wide range tho due to what parts are replaced, new or used and hourly rates.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Wild guess is that they are replacing the spark plugs. If they did that , they have done 90% of the work required to change the COPs(ignition Coil On Plug), a GOOD idea if it hasn't been done in the recent past. COPs have to be removed to replace the plugs so might as well do it. I have heard doing the coils is around $1,000 itself at dealers. Something like $400+ just in parts depending OEM etc. This is a time consuming pita job but any decent mechanic can do it. If you have a significant other, this would be a good opportunity for him to prove his mechanical and amorous metal.
A brake job can be as low as say $100 to over $1000 for front and rear so assuming just rears I would guess you are paying for a "normal" brake job, ie no new components other than pads and maybe turning the rotors. Parts alone would be $50 to $100 depending. Turning rotors I think is around $25 each, depends.
Oil Change at this point is almost a gimme. Usually dealers charge about $50 for quick change regular oil or maybe $100ish for synthetic. Do it yourself is maybe $50 total with semi syn or full syn. This is one of those jobs everyone is capable of and can be taught or talked thru.
For a grand I would guess you are getting a quickie oil change with the semi synthetic(good stuff BTW), at least plugs and maybe the coils, maybe a quick "tuneup in a can" and a simple no frills rear brake job.
So probably about right if they are doing what I said. There is a wide range tho due to what parts are replaced, new or used and hourly rates.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Yeah he talked to me about it. Pretty much walked me through it verbally. He said it's the plugs plus 2 coils that need to be changed. And he said the front tires are fine probably 15k more miles. I do use synthetic oil when I get it changed. So I guess you're right lol. Thanks so much for the detailed feedback. I do appreciate it.
Whoa, what?
Dude, you can change your own plugs and coils for MUCH cheaper than they can. I went to Ford to get an oil change with a synthetic blend for $40. And brakes are also EASY to do yourself and MUCH CHEAPER assuming nothing major needs to be replaced outside the shoes. You could do all this in a days work for a FRACTION of that $925. I'm not exactly an ace mechanic but I can at least do those simple things. And if you don't yet know how this would be a great opportunity to learn. Save a TON of money doing these things yourself!
Dude, you can change your own plugs and coils for MUCH cheaper than they can. I went to Ford to get an oil change with a synthetic blend for $40. And brakes are also EASY to do yourself and MUCH CHEAPER assuming nothing major needs to be replaced outside the shoes. You could do all this in a days work for a FRACTION of that $925. I'm not exactly an ace mechanic but I can at least do those simple things. And if you don't yet know how this would be a great opportunity to learn. Save a TON of money doing these things yourself!
2002_lincolnLS
Custom User Title
you are putting shoes on your disc brakes... Let me know how that works out for you.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
you are putting shoes on your disc brakes... Let me know how that works out for you.
Yes, brakes are not something to learn on, without experienced help for the first time or two.
I think that $925 is pretty reasonable for the total work mentioned. Of course it would be less as a DIY, but not every can, has time to, or wants to DIY.
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
"He said it's the plugs plus 2 coils that need to be changed."
Experience with other guys on this webpage is that if one coil is going the others may not be far behind. IF You have the Money now, it will save you cost and trouble in the future to change all the coils at the same time, maybe have him keep the good used ones for the future.
I had coil issues back around 20K miles. I am starting to have some stumbles now at 120K miles, which make me think it is happening again. I am almost sure heat is a problem for our coils. The first time I had coil issues at 20K, it started right after I was stuck on the freeway, dead stop, on a 105+ degree day for 90 minutes with the AC on. The engine did not over heat, but right after traffic got moving again, I had a bad stumble.
The reason I say I am almost convinced is that this year I replaced all the plugs and saw no issues with oil contamination of the coils, a common problem. Now, at 120K miles I have had some slightly rough running and even a good stumble with a flashing check engine light(Means your coils or plugs are misfiring). It has been in the 105-110 range for the past 2 weeks and I had the stumble last week right at the peak of high temps. It is cooler now, low 90s, and I only have an occasional rough running. So I am guessing the heat pushed my "old" coils over to run rough and even stumble on the hottest day.
Anyway, babble babble, The COPs are worth changing all in one shot if you have the money. They are just going to fail one at a time in the reasonable future. The main cost is the coils, since you already had to remove them to change the plugs.
Ditto the shotgun approach when you start having leaking cooling system parts. When one part dies, usually the degas tank, the rest are waiting to follow.
Plugs and coils are something anyone can do, it is just a real time eater due to tight spaces. Brakes are easy IF YOU KNOW what to do. Oil change, a no brainer.
If you are inclined, you might look into one of you local high schools or community colleges for a basic auto mechanic class for women. Usually you will learn everything we have talked about here and you will understand how to talk mechanese(not get ripped off).
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Experience with other guys on this webpage is that if one coil is going the others may not be far behind. IF You have the Money now, it will save you cost and trouble in the future to change all the coils at the same time, maybe have him keep the good used ones for the future.
I had coil issues back around 20K miles. I am starting to have some stumbles now at 120K miles, which make me think it is happening again. I am almost sure heat is a problem for our coils. The first time I had coil issues at 20K, it started right after I was stuck on the freeway, dead stop, on a 105+ degree day for 90 minutes with the AC on. The engine did not over heat, but right after traffic got moving again, I had a bad stumble.
The reason I say I am almost convinced is that this year I replaced all the plugs and saw no issues with oil contamination of the coils, a common problem. Now, at 120K miles I have had some slightly rough running and even a good stumble with a flashing check engine light(Means your coils or plugs are misfiring). It has been in the 105-110 range for the past 2 weeks and I had the stumble last week right at the peak of high temps. It is cooler now, low 90s, and I only have an occasional rough running. So I am guessing the heat pushed my "old" coils over to run rough and even stumble on the hottest day.
Anyway, babble babble, The COPs are worth changing all in one shot if you have the money. They are just going to fail one at a time in the reasonable future. The main cost is the coils, since you already had to remove them to change the plugs.
Ditto the shotgun approach when you start having leaking cooling system parts. When one part dies, usually the degas tank, the rest are waiting to follow.
Plugs and coils are something anyone can do, it is just a real time eater due to tight spaces. Brakes are easy IF YOU KNOW what to do. Oil change, a no brainer.
If you are inclined, you might look into one of you local high schools or community colleges for a basic auto mechanic class for women. Usually you will learn everything we have talked about here and you will understand how to talk mechanese(not get ripped off).
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
dNyce LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Bah, you know what I meant! 
But yeah, I learned brakes on my 88 Town Car. It had disc and drum. Brakes are easy really once you do it once.
I guess almost a grand just seems high to me, too high to justify a few odds and ends really!
But yeah, I learned brakes on my 88 Town Car. It had disc and drum. Brakes are easy really once you do it once.
I guess almost a grand just seems high to me, too high to justify a few odds and ends really!
Lol sorry guys I havent been on in awhile. But yes I am a woman and yes my car was skipping, a lot. Especially at red lights or just when I stop in general. I got all the work done and haven't heArd or felt any skipping since. The only thing is now all the lights are still on. The advanrac light, brake light, engine light and ABS oneida believe. Also I get a couple messages like etc failsafe mode, check transmission, check park brake and Check advantrac. I asked here before and a lot of people were saying it's a failing battery. So does this mean I need a new one? Can I just charge it? Could it be anything else? The guy told me to call him if all the lights remained on after he fixed it so I was going to call him sometime this week. Just wanted to see what you guys think..
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I think that it's more likely that you have multiple problems. You probably have something going on with the ABS system like a bad wheel speed sensor, and you likely still have one or more marginal COPs (#4 being the best suspect).
Take it back to the "mechanic." He shouldn't have returned it to you with any lights on that weren't on before you took it in, or that he promised the work would turn off.
If your 04 has less than 100K miles on it, a Ford/Lincoln dealer will find and replace any marginal COPs at no charge to you.
xford
Well-Known LVC Member
Agree with Joegr...
As far as the battery goes is it the original OEM? If so you are near or past its normal life expectancy. You can call around a few major parts stores in your area (i.e. NAPA) and see which ones offer free battery testing. Batteries are not too expensive and a new one is good insurance as far as I am concerned. Many here like the Motorcraft OEM for around $100.
As far as the battery goes is it the original OEM? If so you are near or past its normal life expectancy. You can call around a few major parts stores in your area (i.e. NAPA) and see which ones offer free battery testing. Batteries are not too expensive and a new one is good insurance as far as I am concerned. Many here like the Motorcraft OEM for around $100.
By speed sensor do you mean the spedometer? Lol cause when all those lights come on, my speed drops to 0 like the speedometer just died. But I'll be doing like 40 and it doesn't even tell me how fast I'm going. I'm assuming this is cause of the failsafe mode but I'm not sure. Anyway, I'm taking it back to the mechanic on Friday. If anything I'll take it to the dealer as well.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
There are two LS "failsafe" modes. It doesn't sound like you are describing either. In that case, my advice about the COPs is likely wrong. I thought that you actually meant failsafe mode.
1. ETC failsafe mode - You get a message on the dash saying ETC failsafe mode and you are unable to go more than a few miles per hour.
2. Failsafe cooling mode - You get a different message and you are at half engine power and it runs very poorly at that. You also get a maximum temperature indication.
You are not describing failsafe mode. You are describing the failure of wheel speed sensors and/or the ABS electronics module.
SteveSC
Well-Known LVC Member
If the speedo is dropping to zero I would say it is the speed sensor.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
There is no "the speed sensor."
There are four wheel speed sensors. The ABS module uses them to generate a vehicle speed signal.
trickett90
Well-Known LVC Member
Haha, I love how you keep making this guy look stupid. I'm sure you're not doing it just to be a dick and you just want to make the correction to minimize confusion. Or maybe you do just want to be a dick. Either way it is funny. Second thread tonight.
SteveSC
Well-Known LVC Member
If there is no speed sensor, where does the signal for the speedo come from? All four ABS sensors? If that is the case then when the ABS kicks in the speedo will go crazy!
SteveSC
Well-Known LVC Member
trans speed sensor
The speedo gets the signal from the transmission speed sensor. If the speedo goes to zero this is the most likely source. If the readings from this sensor are incorrect it will cause issues with the tracs system.
The speedo gets the signal from the transmission speed sensor. If the speedo goes to zero this is the most likely source. If the readings from this sensor are incorrect it will cause issues with the tracs system.
SteveSC
Well-Known LVC Member
But hey, I've only been a mechanic for 20 years so what the hell do I know!
SteveSC
Well-Known LVC Member
I do agree that if it is the original battery you should get a new one as it is now 8 years old. To be safe it should be tested.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Apparently nothing about the LS.
I can say for 100% fact that it does not get vehicle speed from the transmission sensor!
Perhaps you should read some of the tech service manuals on the LS electronics. Perhaps you should have worked with someone who did the PCM diagnostics programming for Ford. Just maybe someone who designs some of this stuff might know more than someone who is a mechanic.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Tell you what. Go unplug the ABS. Watch the speedometer go to zero and stay there until you plug it back in. The ABS knows how fast the car is going. If equipped with AdvanceTrac, it even knows what direction it is going in.
SteveSC
Well-Known LVC Member
So where does the feed for the speedo come from then, certainly not from the ABS sensors, not all four anyway. What does the transmission speed sensor do then?
SteveSC
Well-Known LVC Member
Actually the ABS sensors do not "know" how fast the car is going. It gives a value to the ABS computer. The ABS computer uses this value to compare all four signals and determines if all four wheels are spinning at the same speed. And if the ABS sensor gives the speed to the computer, then tell me what is the transmission speed sensor for?