trunk won't open

sweetride

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After trying everything my remaining options were to drill out lock tumbler then find a replacement or cut and remove x-member and crawl into trunk and try to release the latch . The local body shop guy removed the tumbler from the glove box and was able to decode most of the key for the trunk lock . Some playing around with a few blanks got a key that works . My apologies if this has been covered before .
 
Just my two cents but when I hit the keyfob, or button in the car I always have to hit the trunk with my hand, I usually hit it on either side, and the trunk pops up.
 
Just my two cents but when I hit the keyfob, or button in the car I always have to hit the trunk with my hand, I usually hit it on either side, and the trunk pops up.

I guess i should have highlighted 'EVERYTHING' .
 
Then dont ask for help sheesh!

Hmmm , well i don't think i was asking for help . I made the post to possibly help others in the future who have issues with the trunk release . I believe the very 'first' thing tried by 'everybody' when i mentioned my problem including myself was to 'beat' on the decklid . Now i can get the trunk open with a key but have yet to determine why the lock won't release electricly .

I wasn't trying to be a dick !
 
are you sure it's just not sticky?...mine releases but it sticks so even though its unlocked it won't pop open, i have to stick the key in, press down on the deck lid, then lift up using the key to open it.
 
are you sure it's just not sticky?...mine releases but it sticks so even though its unlocked it won't pop open, i have to stick the key in, press down on the deck lid, then lift up using the key to open it.


You have a trunk key ? Mine never came with a key that fits the trunk . A single key with each fob , fits the doors and ignition .
Not sticking , no sound of the latch releasing when using the remote , keypad or door release button .
 
yeah it came with one lol. its all metal except for a thin piece of plastic around the edge and it has the lincoln emblem on it.
 
yeah it came with one lol. its all metal except for a thin piece of plastic around the edge and it has the lincoln emblem on it.

Well that is interesting . I leased my LSC new , let it go when the lease was up then got it back 4 or so years ago . There was only ever 1 key with each fob and of course i never tried it in the trunk until this problem arose . The ignition/door key won't even slide into the trunk tumbler , the trunk/glovebox lock uses a key made from the reciprocal blank .
 
Did you check the wiring harness attached to the drivers side trunk support? These get moved a lot, and break very often. Look for some broken or crimped wires. My stopped woking and when I checked the wires, 4 were totally broke. A little re-connecting and everything is good as new.
 
Did you check the wiring harness attached to the drivers side trunk support? These get moved a lot, and break very often. Look for some broken or crimped wires. My stopped woking and when I checked the wires, 4 were totally broke. A little re-connecting and everything is good as new.

I had that happen where the wires passed over the trunk liner, cut one wire nice and clean. Have also had a problem with a "sticky" trunk, you'd hear the catch release but the trunk wouldn't open.. Sprayed the trunk latch down with some lube and that took care of the problem.
 
I'm hoping it is a broken wire and not the actuator . Of course you can't check for that until you get the trunk open . The first thing i noticed when i got the trunk open was the broken harness shielding where the harness attaches to the driver side trunk hinge . I opened the harness at that point but it appears ok , have to follow it further . It's not a serious issue now as i finally have a key .
 
I checked the new key that fits my trunk lock to verify that it works in the glove box then tried it in the door button for the trunk release and my actuator triggered and the taillights flashed . The trunklid was open at this time so i closed it to see if the actuator would trigger again with the lid down , no go . WTF

Did any other Marks come new without a trunk key , just mine ?
 
gen 2's come with one key but not sure if all gen 1's were 2 key or if they changed at some point. have you tried removing the trunk button in the door panel and jumping the 2 wires and see if that works......also try spraying some PB blaster in there and just keep trying, usually people use the fob or the in car button so the lock will seize and go unnoticed for years.
 
gen 2's come with one key but not sure if all gen 1's were 2 key or if they changed at some point. have you tried removing the trunk button in the door panel and jumping the 2 wires and see if that works......also try spraying some PB blaster in there and just keep trying, usually people use the fob or the in car button so the lock will seize and go unnoticed for years.

My gen 1 came with only 1 key and you are right , i had no idea it didn't fit the trunk lock until the car was 12 yrs old and this problem happened . Yep , tried jumping that button after removing it from the door panel and i sprayed the lock with lots of wd40 .
Now that i can get the trunk open i have found that the button on the door and the fob work fine if the trunklid is up but not if it is closed .
 
Sounds to me like the latch is too tight when the trunk is closed? You may need to adjust the striker.

Luggage Compartment Deck Lid Latch and Striker

The striker can be adjusted up and down for vertical adjustment, also rotated clockwise and counterclockwise for side to side adjustment. Before adjusting the luggage compartment deck lid striker make sure that the deck lid is properly aligned. The latch is not adjustable. Move the striker as required to enter the latch without deflecting the deck lid sideways, and tighten the retaining screws to 10.2-13.8 N-m (8-10 lb-ft). Move the striker up or down as necessary to provide proper deck lid seal between the deck lid and the lower back panel.
 

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