Transmission rebuild and still having issues

DaleGrib

DaleGrib

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Had my transmission rebuilt on my 2003 Lincoln LS 3.9 V8 and I have barely put 700 miles on it since the rebuild. However, I am noticing jerking at 15, 25, 30, and 55 at random still. Was assured when they did the rebuild it would cover the valve body and solenoid pack being replaced on top of everything else. However, it's looking like they did not do anything to the solenoid pack nor the valve body. Once I can confirm it was not done should I use the Sonnax Rebuilt valve body that uses the upgraded parts and should I also use the Sonnax Solenoid pack that has also been upgraded or should I go with OEM?

They tried to tell me there was a break-in period after the rebuild but I really have my doubts on how it's doing the jerking at the same speeds as before just not as harsh by any means. I will also say that I did replace the solenoid pack with a new OEM one right before the rebuild like one month prior. Just not sure if it needed to be done again being the condition of that fluid. Also, I have had the car back at the shop for it's 500 mile checkup and I told them my concerns of how it was driving and they said nothing was wrong and it all checked out on their tests.
 
How does the level of the fluid on the trans dip stick look? Would they have placed the wrong fluid in the trans by any chance?
I know that the LS is a very unique vehicle, maybe they overlooked something like the fluid?

Reason why I bring this up is they say they checked it out based on their tests. You and I both know what that means.
 
Svets96 said:
How does the level of the fluid on the trans dip stick look? Would they have placed the wrong fluid in the trans by any chance?
I know that the LS is a very unique vehicle, maybe they overlooked something like the fluid?

Reason why I bring this up is they say they checked it out based on their tests. You and I both know what that means.
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The LS does not have a dipstick sadly. They checked the fluid 200 miles ago and they said it was still nice and new looking. I am considering in the future changing the pan so it will have a dipstick as there are kits for the 5r55s that have them. Just the pan ends up being a little bit deeper and you have to use a long neck filter.
 
I don't recall any transmission break-in period with any jerking when my LSes were new, nor after the transmission rebuild on my 06.
 
joegr said:
I don't recall any transmission break-in period with any jerking when my LSes were new, nor after the transmission rebuild on my 06.
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So should I suspect valve body? And if so should I replace the solenoid pack again? I honestly doubt at this point I will get anything honest out of the transmission shop so I just wanted to see what my best options are in trying to make some dang lemonade out of them damn lemons!
 
Maybe it has something to do with your U1262 DTC.

With all the quirks your '03 is having... I'm starting to wonder if it was a flood vehicle.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Maybe it has something to do with your U1262 DTC.

With all the quirks your '03 is having... I'm starting to wonder if it was a flood vehicle.
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I don't that it was a flood car, I have had several people check the car out for that and they can't see anything that would indicate that. I just think I have really bad luck in general! I guess I am going to pay a shop to diagnose the issue next week. Maybe the car has a defective body control module or maybe even the PCM. I am going to try to go outside today once this rain stops and use Ford IDS and attempt to start testing the modules and see if I can get any info from the test in the meantime while I wait for a shop to check it out.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
You mention jerking at specific speeds. Are these shift points? What is the Tach doing/showing at these speeds?
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RPM's Jump up when it happens slightly. I am not sure what the shift points and such are on the LS so I am not sure on that. I just notice the issues at the speeds I mentioned. It also does feel like at times it does it on down shift as well but it's just a slight jerk when that happens. I am trying to get my OBDLink MX+ to work on recording live data and once it does I will share it here. I have a very crappy smartphone so the phone is not wanting to work correctly with it.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Again... is this when it shifts, or is it random?
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Seems to be when it shifts I would guess, but I am not sure what speeds the LS should be shifting gears. It is not at random speeds though it's only at the speeds I mentioned. Happens only at 15, 25, 30, and 55.
 
DaleGrib said:
Seems to be when it shifts I would guess, but I am not sure what speeds the LS should be shifting gears. It is not at random speeds though it's only at the speeds I mentioned. Happens only at 15, 25, 30, and 55.
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Do you have an rpm gauge? If that moves a bunch at one time it means it shifted. Watch it at those speeds and when it shifts and see if it's the same times. You should also be able to feel slash hear it if you have your radio low enough
 
The vehicle speed at which the tranny shifts is throttle dependent. Heavier throttle should result with those shift speeds being higher.

Don't baby the tranny. Drive the car like you normally would.

If there is an rpm surge when the tranny shifts, then that sounds like something is out of adjustment. Possibly the Transmission Range Sensor, (DTR), or the drive bands.

From the internet... since it could desribe the issue better/more briefly than I can:

"Shift flare is when the engine RPMs rise after an upshift before settling down to a lower number. It typically is a sign of clutch or band failure in an automatic transmission."

I think the tranny shop may not have adjusted the bands properly. Shouldn't be a valve body issue unless they didn't sleeve the original valve body like you said they were going to do.

Did they install the Sonnax vb like you talked about?
 
SultanGris said:
Do you have an rpm gauge? If that moves a bunch at one time it means it shifted. Watch it at those speeds and when it shifts and see if it's the same times. You should also be able to feel slash hear it if you have your radio low enough
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If that is the case then it's happening when it's shifting as I said I noticed the rpm increase at them speeds.
04_Sport_LS said:
The vehicle speed at which the tranny shifts is throttle dependent. Heavier throttle should result with those shift speeds being higher.

Don't baby the tranny. Drive the car like you normally would.

If there is an rpm surge when the tranny shifts, then that sounds like something is out of adjustment. Possibly the Transmission Range Sensor, (DTR), or the drive bands.

From the internet... since it could desribe the issue better/more briefly than I can:

"Shift flare is when the engine RPMs rise after an upshift before settling down to a lower number. It typically is a sign of clutch or band failure in an automatic transmission."

I think the tranny shop may not have adjusted the bands properly. Shouldn't be a valve body issue unless they didn't sleeve the original valve body like you said they were going to do.

Did they install the Sonnax vb like you talked about?
Click to expand...

I have been driving it normal and not babying it. I even notice the harsh shifting at some of them speeds if I floor it as well. It appears by the invoice now that I see that they did not do the valve body. They lied to my face if this is the case. Cause the last day I was there dropping it off I wanted to confirm all that would be done and he said Sonnax for valve body rebuild and superior for the bands and such and a rebuilt torque converter. But as I can see on this invoice it breaks it down a little bit and there is 0 mention of valve body. That is why I was assuming I was having this shifting issue now.
 
I am aware, however it says RPM on the gauge itself and if you are not aware then you will never find the tachometer. ;)
 
Well... if they didn't actually install a new valve body, and the bores are worn... that could (possibly) be the cause of your symptoms.

Or... the drive bands are adjusted too loose. Proper adjustment of the bands are as follows.

Loosen lock nut on band adjustment bolt. Tighten bolt with torque wrench to 10 foot pounds, (or pound feet). back bolt off 2 full turns and tighten lock nut. (while holding bolt stationary with a wrench)

Since there is very little room to adjust the bands with the tranny in the car. I use a short inch pound torque wrench set at 120.

Again... since there is very little room... you will never get a socket (and ratchet) on the bolt to get the proper torque.

In this case... you need what is called a tool called a "torque adapter". It's a small box end looking wrench that had a square drive on the back end... for the ratchet to lock into.

Then... you need a "torque adapter calculator" formula (found on the internet) because the extra length of the torque adapter will will throw off the numerical setting on the torque wrench.
 
Here's the torque adapter calculator I use.

Extensions Calculator

Keep in mind that the length of the actual torque adapter wrench... is measured from the centerline of the square drive... to the center of the "socket" end.

And the other measurement is from the center of the handle on the torque wrench... to the center of the square drive on the torque wrench.
 
And keep the torque adapter wrench in-line with the torque wrench when making the adjustments... or it will over torque the bolt due to the increase of leverage of the offset.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
I hope I made all that clearer than mud. :rolleyes:
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Yeah, you did thanks! I just can't do any of that cause it would void the warranty I have. I am going to be forced to let them handle whatever is wrong with it most likely. I was just trying to get an opinion on what to do overall in this situation. They claimed to have checked it all at the 500-mile check and they said it is all in line and within specs. But obviously, something is wrong cause it does not feel smooth enough on the changing of gears. Since it seems they did not do the valve body my gut is telling me that is the cause of the issue. I know there is a chance they could have done something wrong but still, if they didn't rebuild that valve body it's highly suspect to say the very least.
 
And if the valve body does fix my issues after replacing it then my gut tells me I could have gotten many more miles on it before actually having to rebuild the transmission. It is hard to find honest transmission shops it seems. If you go in for a check it seems their goal is a rebuild no matter what. Then you tell them the same issues after the fact and they say it's normal. It's a Bizzaro world, to say the least.
 
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