Trans flush

[ONLYTONY]

I'm going to get the trans fluid changed on my 95, with 50K on the fluid now. It was done in 1999. I want to make sure it has mercon V in it. My local dealer quoted me $190. He said it was a complete flush. When I asked if that was for a new filter too, he said no, we would have to pull the pan. He said the flush would clean everything like new. Is this the new way to do this? To me it sounds like the only think getting flushed is my money. The 95 has 113K on it. In 99 the trans was installed with 52K They told me it was a new one, done under waranty. It works great,just want to keep it that way Thanks TONYyyy

 

[NoLimit95]

I would expect a filter to be changed too. The pan has a re-usable seal on it unless it was changed in 1999. The magnet inside needs to be cleaned off. I would find someone else that feels like working.

 

[purpony]

On the newer fords, thats what they do, back flush it and NO filter change..

personally i would want a new filter....

 

[ONLYTONY]

flush

I did'nt think flushing would clean the filter. It's got to leave junk behind. Looks like the pan has got to come off,the old school way. Thanks guys.

 

[thaywood]

Personally, I wouldn't do it without a guarantee that the filter is replaced. What's the point of changing/flushing the fluid if you're going to leave a dirty filter in there? That's stupid. I do my own trans fluid/filter changes. It's not that bad. I put a drain plug in my pan so I can drain the fluid first to avoid the mess. Drop the pan, replace filter and put the pan back up. On these transmissions you can also drain the torque converter. There's a rubber plug on the bottom of the bellhousing. Remove the plug, rotate the engine until the drain plug is over the hole, remove plug and drain TC. Draining the case and TC gets most of the fluid out of the transmission. Last time I did mine, I think I put about 10 quarts back in. It's almost as thorough as a complete flush, and a LOT cheaper.

 

[Don Pfau]

Transmission filters only filter a percentage of the fluid being pumped and the particles trapped in them generally fall back into the fluid when you shut it off. So replacing them is not as important as I or most people use to think. If done right and if done with more fluid than is needed it is actually a good way if you are changing the fluid type.

 

[thaywood]

Transmission filters only filter a percentage of the fluid being pumped and the particles trapped in them generally fall back into the fluid when you shut it off...

If that is the case, what's the point of having a filter in the first place?

 

[Psychostang]

To keep particles from getting into the pump and valve body. As long as they stay in the pan, there is no problem.

 

[Don Pfau]

I often wonder about that also. Obviouly the best would be doing both. And some places offer that. Cleaning out the bottom of the pan for contaminants is probably the most important thing missed by a flush only. A fluid and filter change does not change a lot of the fluid. Niether should be done on a old working transmission that has not be serviced and maintained properly. But if your changing fluid type I'd prefer the flush if you can't do both.

 

[thaywood]

I change the filter every time I change my transmission fluid. I got my '97 LSC with 173k miles on it. Trans fluid/filter change was one of the first things I did. As soon as I dropped the pan I knew it had never been off before. The little plastic dipstick plug was still in the pan. It is possible it may have been "flushed" before, but the filter had never been changed. I changed the filter and drained the case and converter and refilled it with Mercon V. I could tell a BIG difference in the smoothness of the shifts after that first change. Since then I've changed the fluid/filter at least 3 times (I know that sounds like overkill, but I wanted to make sure it was cleaned out). The car now has 207k miles and shifts fine for the most part. The last time I changed it was about 15k miles ago. I can tell it's due for another change though because it is starting to act a tad funny. Every time it does that, a fluid/filter change fixes 'er right up and she's good for another 15-20k miles. The last couple of times I changed it, there was not much more than a dark film on the bottom of the pan and a thin film of crud on the magnet. And the fluid is always nice and red.

 

[NoLimit95]

I'm like thaywood, I can handle changing my own fluid and filter. If you can't remove 18 bolts, drain and replace the filter and drain the TC, something is wrong. It's not that difficult. I'm also going to tap my pan for draining but it's only to eliminate a mess.

Then there is also another way. You can remove the line from the radiator and crank the car. The fluid will flow through the line and into a bucket that you have ready for it. I just do it by pan removal and cranking the engine with a pull bar and socket to see the TC drain bolt. I let it drain for about 30 min and lower the jack so it drains and two different angles to get the most out. Replace the TC drain bolt, filter with new one, clean off magnet, put the pan back on with a cordless drill and socket. Set the torque on the drill for a low torque, depending on the drill you have and then follow up yourself by hand. Check again in 2 weeks for any loose bolts.

 

[JAX.TRUX]

What He Said

If that is the case, what's the point of having a filter in the first place?

:iconcur: :I :Bang :Bang :Bang :headbang:

 

[JAX.TRUX]

filter

I think now days they call it a [screen]. If you have ever had a pan off and looked at that gray mess that's in the bottom - you take the old brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner - ether will do - and wash that crap out of the pan,,, watch that stuff hit the wash pan with amazement,,,, and clean it up i'm sure everyone will agree that it's a good thing to get that stuff out of there - it can't be good and i doubt a flush will get it. not all of it.