NetKeym
Dedicated LVC Member
If you suspect your MLPS may be bad, here is some good info for testing.
Specs - MLPS Voltages and Resistances (Gear, Volt, Ohms):
Park, 3.97-4.85v, 3770-4607 ohms
Reverse, 3.25-3.96v, 1304-1593 ohms
Neutral, 2.55-3.11v, 660-807 ohms
Overdrive, 1.88-2.30v, 361-442 ohms
Second, 1.23-1.51v, 190-232 ohms
First, 0.61-0.75v, 78-95 ohms
For the backup lamps, the switch must make continuity between pins 2 (Pink/Orange wire) and pins 3 (Black/Pink wire).
For instance, my car was the following (which is a working MLPS):
P - 4.410v
R - 3.615v
N - 2.860v
D - 2.105v
2 - 1.390v
1 - 0.675v
Specs - MLPS Voltages and Resistances (Gear, Volt, Ohms):
Park, 3.97-4.85v, 3770-4607 ohms
Reverse, 3.25-3.96v, 1304-1593 ohms
Neutral, 2.55-3.11v, 660-807 ohms
Overdrive, 1.88-2.30v, 361-442 ohms
Second, 1.23-1.51v, 190-232 ohms
First, 0.61-0.75v, 78-95 ohms
For the backup lamps, the switch must make continuity between pins 2 (Pink/Orange wire) and pins 3 (Black/Pink wire).
For instance, my car was the following (which is a working MLPS):
P - 4.410v
R - 3.615v
N - 2.860v
D - 2.105v
2 - 1.390v
1 - 0.675v