got that shudder low rpm's 3rd to 4th.Feels like your diving over a set of rumble strips every 50ft at 50-^ mph.50 ft its there 50 ft its not and so on.If you get on it and downshift it goes away until it hits 4rth gear then its back.Wanting to sevice the tranny tommorrow before labor day trip.Figured on a new filter and some of that shudder stop stuff.Is it 14 qrts i will need of merconV?For those of you that have done it before when pumpint tranny fluid out of coolant lines can you give me and info on how this is done?Or should i just drain it all from the pan and tc?Got a slight misfire now also.Figuring on replacing plugs before trip.Autolite 764's correct? gap.048 to .054? My car is a 95 with 90k.Should i go ahead and replace wires while im there?Any recommendations on a brand?I have had the car for 9-10 months now and have never done better than 22mpg. According to geno during a phone conversation awhile back he stated i have a problem and I should check fuel filter due to low mpg.Any suggestions? Thanks
tranny flush or drain?
- Thread starter BuddyL
- Start date
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
If it were me, I would only drain the pan and TC. Make sure not to forget to put the TC drain bolt back in. Most times, you can use the same gasket that is on your current pan if it has never been leaking but some would go ahead and change that too. I didn't and there are no fluid leaks.
Mercon V is correct and 764's is correct. If you have the cash flow for the plug wires, it never hurts to change them also. Try to get 9mm wires at least.
I use Motorcraft plugs and some use Autolite's. Everyone also has their own gap preference. Search for what most use and go with it.
Someone on here said the Lucas Tranny fix stopped their shudder. This is all I know.
Oh yeah, clean off the magnet inside the pan too. Should only be a slight dark sludge around it with no metal shavings. Magnet pulls out completely.
Mercon V is correct and 764's is correct. If you have the cash flow for the plug wires, it never hurts to change them also. Try to get 9mm wires at least.
I use Motorcraft plugs and some use Autolite's. Everyone also has their own gap preference. Search for what most use and go with it.
Someone on here said the Lucas Tranny fix stopped their shudder. This is all I know.
Oh yeah, clean off the magnet inside the pan too. Should only be a slight dark sludge around it with no metal shavings. Magnet pulls out completely.
you dont want to do that... you risk starving the pump for fluid and that is not a good thing.
If it were me, I'd either drop the pan and drain the TC.
OR.. take it to a lube shop and have them pump the trans full of clean fluid AFTER they change the filter.
your gonna pay in the neighborhood of 200.00 for a filter change and to have them pump it full of clean fluid.
if you drop the pan and drain the TC yourself it's about 75.00 in parts, filter and fluid.
k9t8m
Rollin' Twankies
I still think its a Torque converter shudder. Mine was doing the EXACT same thing. I tried flushing, reprograming the trans (per the TSB) and it was still there. I got a marauder converter from BOC and the problem was gone, and it drives like new now.
After work today i pulled car in shop and put up on lift.Got the rubber plug off to begin searching for plug on tc.Had a coworker turn it over to find it.No plug,and convertor according to coworker has been replaced.He says since its been painted blue and there is no plug it is a remanufactured tc.Honestly the fluid didnt look bad at all.Anyways we pulled the lowest cooling line off at radiator and i put a cut off peice of old 3/8's rubber air line and attached it to it.I had him start it up and kept my eye on it till i started to notice it spitting instead of a steady stream.Had him shut it off and hooked line back up.Then went to pan and pulled it,And to my surprise there was maybe 1/2 of a qrt in there.Now i was using a 5 gal pan and my total i could get out wasnt even half that.Maybe a total of 6 to 7 qrts total.We both kinda lokked at each other and decided what else?It is what it is don't know how to get anymore out.He had to go and after he left i begin to wonder Should i have placed it neutral instead of park when i had line unhooked?I dunno been a long day.So i go to put some castrol merconV in and get to 5 qrts in and went ahead and checked it.It looks to me almost like it overfull.Car was warm when i checked it and i ran it through all gears twice and leaving it in each gear with foot on brake 5-10 secs.So i stop there clean up mess and put away my tools and head home.I have a 40 mile trip to and from the mits plant.I would say 75-80% of "shudder" is gone.Stopped by auto parts store to get refund for unused i box of 6 qrtrs and pick up a qrt of RISLONE stabilizer and put half in then drive home.Got to go to dunlap tommorrow for boy's football game then after drive to Evansville Indiana (330 miles).Tommorrow morning early I am going to change plugs to autolite 764 copper and change air filter.I'll let ya'll know on how tranny does and how car is doing with performance and mpg.Thanks again to all that replied and thanks LVC.~BuddyL
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Awesome converter for the price....
I have never changed fluid on an Auto before. All my cars were stick and the ones that were auto I sold before they were due for service.
So to do a proper change I need to get access to the TC and remove its drain plug? I never looked but I assume there is an access pannel to it under the car. Also if the plug isnt visiable I have to bump the engine till it is?
It sounds like I will need apx 7 quarts for this fluid change?
So to do a proper change I need to get access to the TC and remove its drain plug? I never looked but I assume there is an access pannel to it under the car. Also if the plug isnt visiable I have to bump the engine till it is?
It sounds like I will need apx 7 quarts for this fluid change?
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Laser, the plug is located at the bottom of the trans. You should see a rubber grommet dead center on the bottom. Pull it off by hand. Get a pry bar and whatever socket that fits the crank bolt (remove the belt) and turn it until you see the bolt show on the bottom. Two people helps a lot when doing this. If you bump the engine looking for it, you could be days trying to find it through that little hole lol. You might get lucky and pull the rubber piece out and be right there at the bolt but very unlikely.