AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
Hey those of you with lsd's... how often do the clutch material inside them have to be replaced. What are the symptoms if they need to be replaced? Will one side pull harder than the other?
Traclok clutches - how often do they have to be replaced?
- Thread starter AbrahamLincoln
- Start date
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
It depends on how the car is driven and such...
At 70k the factory Tlock in my Vic was untouched and at 103k it will spin both tires on any surface...
At 70k the factory Tlock in my Vic was untouched and at 103k it will spin both tires on any surface...
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
Evidently I did too many john force st00pid burnouts.
About 180 track passes over the course of ~2-1/2 years and my track-lok needed rebuilt.
ladenblowfish
Well-Known LVC Member
I have had my trac lok in for about a year now and every time now I do a burnout, the right rear always pulls harder than the left. The backside slides out even on flat ground.
Evidently I did too many john force st00pid burnouts.
About 180 track passes over the course of ~2-1/2 years and my track-lok needed rebuilt.
Your power level, coupled with sticky tires and a stall convertor might have been a contriubuting factor.
My point was, the "hard on the brakes" part of the st00pid burnout.
I doubt you are one of those with your foot RAMMED down on the brake pedal during the burnout.
I only use enough brake to "barely hold the car" and sometimes it doesnt hold the car and I creep during the burnout.
My goal is to "not burn up the rear brakes, the trans or the rear end" so I am very cautious in the burnout box.
turborich
Dedicated LVC Member
I have never had a issue with any of the trac loc rear ends in my mustangs, even with well over 150,000 miles on them. They seem to last for quite a while. Just use a good gear oil & the friction modifier.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I've heard that putting straight synthetic oil in with no friction modifer can bring a dead tlock back to life... never tried it, just something I heard surfing the net lol..
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I think it might just be blue cars that wear them out faster...
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
we had to change the auburn in the camaro at about 70,000 miles the t-loc in my mustang was bad at about 100k and both should have been done before they got done I could break loc (so only one wheel would spin) in both cars with just 2 fingers but they would still do a posi burnout
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
this does help but they are so easy to replace why fix it half ass just replace the clutches
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
luxuryrules
Dedicated LVC Member
Replacing fluid is WAAAAYYY easier than swapping the clutches.
But everybody here is missing the boat: frequent rear end fluid changes are the secret. I had a TLok in one of my box Townies last 200,000 miles - and even then it was still good, the car just rusted out on me. How? Change the differential fluid every 30k.
Of course, the Blue Flame is our statistical outlier, but John puts that thing to more strenuous use than any of the rest of us, so a shorter service life is to be expected. For a car without substantial horsepower increases and frequent drag strip runs, frequent fluid changes should yield a life of 100k-200k for those clutches.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
setting gear lash isn't exactly easy?
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
Evidently I did too many john force st00pid burnouts.
About 180 track passes over the course of ~2-1/2 years and my track-lok needed rebuilt.
is that when you put in the locker?
Abe, rebuilding the track lok doesnt affect gear backlash or pinion depth.
actually setting up a rear end isn't difficult at all, it's just time consuming and usually people will "settle" rather than going thru the difficulty of taking the thing apart and adding, subtracting or swapping shims.
a good rear end guy will get it close the first time and nail it on the second time..where a noobie will not be close the first 3-4 times and will "settle" on the 5th time when it just "gets in the ball park".
it would probably take me 6-9 tries to get it the way I would want it.
The thing to remember is if you have to alter the pinion depth when you are setting one up... then you need a new crush sleeve and nut ($$$$)..and that's why people tend to "settle" rather than going the "full pull" and getting it right.
I cant remember the price of the crush sleeve and nut, but they aren't cheap once you have bought 5-6 of them while your dialing in your rear end.
Rear ends are really st00pid easy, they are one of the parts of a car that have changed very little since the beginning.
I think that you could set one up, given it wasn't the rear end out of your car {a spare housing) that you could take it slow and easy and get it PERFECT.
But you cant "abe your way" thru it, you have to follow instructions to the "T", there is no "fudge factor, or ASSUMING" when building rear ends.
replacing the clutch packs is less difficult than a trans swap, you dont have to repin the harness.. er nuthin
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
You can replace the clutches without removing the carrier from the housing...
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
I agree.
Yes, that's when I opted for the Detroit Tru-Trac and 4.30s.
Words of wisdom. I did get the pinion depth 'spot on' the first time and it took me 3 times to get the backlash 'just right'. Still, most would've settled for 'close enough'.
That's what I did with the 4.10 unit. It's now ready to transplant in the '96.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
Yea I took my car to an expert to have it all setup right. My car slides out to the right when I jump on it sometimes.... I don't know if this is normal or what... I'm sure it's fine I just was curious how often those clutches need to be done. You still have to remove the carrier from the car right to replace the clutches but you don't mess around with setting the gear lash?
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
yea my car. Does the from time to time; was hoping this was normal.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
usually that is from the crown in the road, not really indicating a problem with the car.
also the torque from the engine pushes down on one side of the car harder than the other,which transfers more weight to one particular tire giving it more traction, thus sliding the rear out to the side.
Also any time you push something "down" it tries to deflect to one side or the other, coupled with the engine torque is probably why it pushes the rear out to the side as well.