Took it to the track

good job on shallow staging, that's a very hard thing to get consistant, sounds like your on the right track.

yes your RT's will get quicker as night falls because your "eye picks up the light faster"..

sounds like you've got a good handle on interpretitation as well..good job!

now... since you have a good idea of shallow staging.. we're gonna "kill your et" a little by having you go "a little deeper".

deeper staging will decrease your RT but your ET will increase because you are giving up some of the "rolling headstart" your getting by shallow staging.

key here is.. "leaving ON the third amber" not before.

Here is what you need to do..
when you are coming up to the tree.. roll slowly until the prestage light turns on..then STOP.

then by bumping the brake pedal, you are gonna inch forward until you "tickle the staged light" like you have been doing..THEN.. bump forward 2 more times.

on my car.. "each bump" is worth .020-.025 decrease in RT.

putting 45 lbs in the front will also decrease your "roll out" and will quicken up your RT, not at the expense of ET.

"rinse lather repeat as needed"

hope this helps, get it back to the track!

P.S. you can "practice bumping" in your driveway, with an observer watching your front tire.. what you want to happen is "each bump" only moves you 1-2 inches.. 1 inch being optimum.

normally I can "bump" 4 times between the prestage and the stage bulb.
usually on the 3rd bump the stage light isn't on yet, and the 4th bump lights it up. if you can get to that point.. it wont be hard to get you dialed in.
 
good times, and good advice on staging also. my stock 98 lsc w/159k hit 15.1's 2 runs in a row last year in full street trim, stereo etc. also a good cool down helps
 
XLRVIII said:
good job on shallow staging, that's a very hard thing to get consistant, sounds like your on the right track.

yes your RT's will get quicker as night falls because your "eye picks up the light faster"..

sounds like you've got a good handle on interpretitation as well..good job!

now... since you have a good idea of shallow staging.. we're gonna "kill your et" a little by having you go "a little deeper".

deeper staging will decrease your RT but your ET will increase because you are giving up some of the "rolling headstart" your getting by shallow staging.

key here is.. "leaving ON the third amber" not before.

Here is what you need to do..
when you are coming up to the tree.. roll slowly until the prestage light turns on..then STOP.

then by bumping the brake pedal, you are gonna inch forward until you "tickle the staged light" like you have been doing..THEN.. bump forward 2 more times.

on my car.. "each bump" is worth .020-.025 decrease in RT.

putting 45 lbs in the front will also decrease your "roll out" and will quicken up your RT, not at the expense of ET.

"rinse lather repeat as needed"

hope this helps, get it back to the track!

P.S. you can "practice bumping" in your driveway, with an observer watching your front tire.. what you want to happen is "each bump" only moves you 1-2 inches.. 1 inch being optimum.

normally I can "bump" 4 times between the prestage and the stage bulb.
usually on the 3rd bump the stage light isn't on yet, and the 4th bump lights it up. if you can get to that point.. it wont be hard to get you dialed in.
Click to expand...

Why not practice to get good at shallow staging for good R/T???get the best ET too.
 
Lux very impressive et's for a stock mark. do you have the times of the runs. and the exact location i would be curious to see the air density for that night. to compare to my own runs. keep it up. PS times of the day :)
 
kracker said:
Lux very impressive et's for a stock mark. do you have the times of the runs. and the exact location i would be curious to see the air density for that night. to compare to my own runs. keep it up. PS times of the day :)
Click to expand...

Thanks kracker, i feel it had more in it stock. It just goes to show you what maintaining your vehicle can do for its performance, first thing i did was change everything on it and it only had 54,000 miles on it, just to be safe. I bet i could of knocked it down another tenth letting it cool down some more, and doing some of the things tommy mentioned. I've already ripped the air silencer out and through a k & n in it, i've heard about throwing codes and what not but so far i've had no ill effects.

The times was 7pm and 830 pm, second run was 830, atco new jersey, i'd have to check the silps to see what other info was on there, i know the temperature reading at atco is messed up and it reads zero degrees on the timeslip.
 
The k&n will help stay away from the conical filter i put one on my and i really think it hurt my et. i am going today to get another air box and switch it back. people will have other opinions on the conical. so you can make your own decision. just my experience way better conditions and slower et. equals BAD IDEA
-2 tenth for kracker
 
Lux said:
Thanks kracker, i feel it had more in it stock. It just goes to show you what maintaining your vehicle can do for its performance, first thing i did was change everything on it and it only had 54,000 miles on it, just to be safe. I bet i could of knocked it down another tenth letting it cool down some more, and doing some of the things tommy mentioned. I've already ripped the air silencer out and through a k & n in it, i've heard about throwing codes and what not but so far i've had no ill effects.

The times was 7pm and 830 pm, second run was 830, atco new jersey, i'd have to check the silps to see what other info was on there, i know the temperature reading at atco is messed up and it reads zero degrees on the timeslip.
Click to expand...

Ya left out the wednesday car bit.
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
Why not practice to get good at shallow staging for good R/T???get the best ET too.
Click to expand...

That is part of the "overall process".

When you make adjustments to get better, with time.. you actually GET BETTER.

The more you hit the tree.. the better your reactions become..it's a really amazing thing called "practice".

A few years ago, I needed a "couple of bumps" to put me in the .500-.000 range, after time went by I started redlighting, and thus not bumping in twice, I'd only bump in once.

Then, as I got better... so did my reaction times.

now I need "no bumps" to get into the "ohs".


What I am saying for the original poster, is.. you have to be "consistant" in every aspect of staging and launching IF your gonna "work" on getting a better Reaction time.


Did you know that lining up "not in the center" of the lane ALSO affects your RT.. not by ALOT but it could turn an .003 into a red light.
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
Why not practice to get good at shallow staging for good R/T???get the best ET too.
Click to expand...


Also, "deep staging" while it "does slow your ET" down it's not by very much.

Unless you are running 14.0s and trying for 13.99's would a deep stage hurt your ET enough to worry about.

Maybe .01-.03 lost ET due to deep staging... which is very important to know if you are bracket racing, or shooting for "absolute low ET".

you could run a string of 14.0's.. using a deep staging technique.
Then.. if you wanted to "hit that 13.99" then use a shallow stage to "run the number".

Sometimes.. also in a bracket racing scenario.. it might be "benifitial" to "drop" a couple of hundreths.. by "going deep" if your car has cooled down more than you had anticipated. but I dont really suggest "adjusting ET by staging" it's easier to "wipe off the dial".. unless you are "past the point" they allow you to "change your dial", then you might "take a little off the run by bumping in once". {just a thought from the far side)

IMHO, there is alot more to drag racing than running "low et".

If I can "kill" my opponent on the tree, they usually have a hard time "making up that ground"..because "they are behind, and will over rev, miss a gear, spin..etc

I'll give up .01-03 in ET, to get .2 -.3 RT advantage out of my opponent "on the tree".
 
mafioso what are you into today i am proubly going to be installing heated seats in the mark sorry off topic
 
kracker said:
mafioso what are you into today i am proubly going to be installing heated seats in the mark sorry off topic
Click to expand...

Subtract .05 in ET

Your working real hard at slowing that car down.. aintcha.
*LMAO*

On a positive note.. you can pick up .1 in ET if you "SAW YOUR LEG OFF".

HAHA
 
XLRVIII said:
That is part of the "overall process".

When you make adjustments to get better, with time.. you actually GET BETTER.

The more you hit the tree.. the better your reactions become..it's a really amazing thing called "practice".

A few years ago, I needed a "couple of bumps" to put me in the .500-.000 range, after time went by I started redlighting, and thus not bumping in twice, I'd only bump in once.

Then, as I got better... so did my reaction times.

now I need "no bumps" to get into the "ohs".


What I am saying for the original poster, is.. you have to be "consistant" in every aspect of staging and launching IF your gonna "work" on getting a better Reaction time.


Did you know that lining up "not in the center" of the lane ALSO affects your RT.. not by ALOT but it could turn an .003 into a red light.
Click to expand...

I see what your saying. A practice method I guess.

I can honestly say my first 100 passes I focused more on how the car wanted to be launched. I would always shallow stage the same to get consistent so the 60' was something to learn from. 2.12-2.14 ideal but anything above 2.175 (this was before my gears) was bad. Once I could 60' consistent and I got the most out of it driving wise, I now like to turn a good light too. After a few passes I was good to .0 some in a average night sometimes the rest of the night.

Probably alittle rusty now.
 
kracker said:
mafioso what are you into today i am proubly going to be installing heated seats in the mark sorry off topic
Click to expand...

Im game to come help, I lost my job friday due to the economy so I have all the free time I can handle.
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
I see what your saying. A practice method I guess.

I can honestly say my first 100 passes I focused more on how the car wanted to be launched.


After a few passes I was good to .0 some in a average night sometimes the rest of the night.

Probably alittle rusty now.
Click to expand...

Well after 100 passes, I'm not suprised that it only took you a "couple of passes" to adjust your RT.

You would be suprised at how "rust free" you actually are.

I made two races this year, the last race..was the first race with the new car.
cutting low "ohs" came easy during time trials, I was quite suprised.]

I made it to the semi finals in the jackpot race, and Won the street stock race.. first time out with the new car.
 
Sweet the only thing on my agenda is getting the carpets in the lincoln shampooed,

I got into a fight with a doggie bag and lost.
 
XLRVIII said:
Also, "deep staging" while it "does slow your ET" down it's not by very much.

Unless you are running 14.0s and trying for 13.99's would a deep stage hurt your ET enough to worry about.

Maybe .01-.03 lost ET due to deep staging... which is very important to know if you are bracket racing, or shooting for "absolute low ET".

you could run a string of 14.0's.. using a deep staging technique.
Then.. if you wanted to "hit that 13.99" then use a shallow stage to "run the number".

Sometimes.. also in a bracket racing scenario.. it might be "benifitial" to "drop" a couple of hundreths.. by "going deep" if your car has cooled down more than you had anticipated. but I dont really suggest "adjusting ET by staging" it's easier to "wipe off the dial".. unless you are "past the point" they allow you to "change your dial", then you might "take a little off the run by bumping in once". {just a thought from the far side)

IMHO, there is alot more to drag racing than running "low et".

If I can "kill" my opponent on the tree, they usually have a hard time "making up that ground"..because "they are behind, and will over rev, miss a gear, spin..etc

I'll give up .01-03 in ET, to get .2 -.3 RT advantage out of my opponent "on the tree".
Click to expand...


ok.... I can pull 2.12-2.15 consistent and run .02-.05 lights pretty normally..... but I'm sooooooooooo lost in this thread. I missing my Drag racing lingo to English dictionary. Can someone fill me in on this?
 
"wipe off the dial"..
In a bracket race you have to "dial in your car", usually using a window chaulk or shoe polish.
your "dial in" is your predicted ET.. if you go faster/quicker than your dial in.. YOU LOSE.

So you may want to "wipe off the dial" if your car got more or less cool down time than you anticipated which will affect your cars ET.. and you need to "adjust your dial in"..thus "wiping off the dial in".

"Deep staging" is when you roll "further into the beams" after both the prestage and stage lights are lit.
Deep staging gives better Reaction times at the minor expense of a little Elapsed time.

"bumping" is how you "deep stage".
Once you light the prestage light, you begin "bumping the car" using the brake to move to the "staged position".. once the stage light burns you can "USUALLY" bump in 2,3 4 times before the "prestage light goes out".
You dont want to "turn out the top light".. so becareful when deepstaging.
 
NHLSV8 said:
ok.... I can pull 2.12-2.15 consistent and run .02-.05 lights pretty normally.....
Click to expand...


Your "right in the sweet spot".. I wouldn't change anything.. and if you cut .03-05 lights "bumping into the staged beam" wont help.. it'll probably make you redlight.

Keeping in mind there is .02-03 difference between daylight RT's and night time RTs.

On MY car, a "bump" is worth about .03 on the tree, so if I'm cutting .030 lights in the daylight and the actual RACE is at night.. I dont adjust.

If I'm cutting .05 lights in the day light, and the race is at night, then I wont bump, because the .030 difference between day and night will "fix the RT".

NOw.. if I'm cutting .060 lights in the day, and the race is at night.. then "I need a bump" to get into the .020-.030 range.


you sound like your car is "dialed in"
you should get yourself into the local "jackpot bracket race" and start WINNING THE MONEY!!!
:eek:
 
Last edited:
XLRVIII said:
"wipe off the dial"..
In a bracket race you have to "dial in your car", usually using a window chaulk or shoe polish.
your "dial in" is your predicted ET.. if you go faster/quicker than your dial in.. YOU LOSE.

So you may want to "wipe off the dial" if your car got more or less cool down time than you anticipated which will affect your cars ET.. and you need to "adjust your dial in"..thus "wiping off the dial in".

"Deep staging" is when you roll "further into the beams" after both the prestage and stage lights are lit.
Deep staging gives better Reaction times at the minor expense of a little Elapsed time.

"bumping" is how you "deep stage".
Once you light the prestage light, you begin "bumping the car" using the brake to move to the "staged position".. once the stage light burns you can "USUALLY" bump in 2,3 4 times before the "prestage light goes out".
You dont want to "turn out the top light".. so becareful when deepstaging.
Click to expand...

thought I was familiar with brackets..... never know you could change your dial..... is there a protocol or etiquette to that process?
 
NHLSV8 said:
thought I was familiar with brackets..... never know you could change your dial..... is there a protocol or etiquette to that process?
Click to expand...


each track is a little different.

At MOST tracks.. once you've been "paired up" with your opponent and head for the "burnout box" you cannot change your dial in.

The reason is.. by "this time" your and your opponents dial in is already logged into the computer... if you change it.. THEY have to change it in the tower as well.

At our race.. once you pass the "ready" line, heading to the burnout box.. your dial in is SET IN STONE.

At some races.. I will run my round 1 dial in ALL NIGHT LONG..

And at other races, I wait until AFTER I know who I'm racing to "set my dial in".
Most of the time.. unless something drastic changes.. I just "let it ride"..because I am pretty familiar with my car.
 
Funny thing...
at a recent race.. I "recruited" a Test and Tune racer to come run in our street stock race.

I tried really hard to "bring the newbie" "up to speed".

I got him "dialed in" for round one.. and worked on getting myself dialed in.

In the final round.. it was "him and me".. and he still had his round 1 dial in!
(my bad)
I forgot to tell him he "could" change his dial in.. but..
HE DID WELL REGARDLESS!!!
 
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