Timing Chain Replacement

J

JerzyHustler

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Okay guys, I want to say sorry first off, for only coming here in times of need. But you guys seem to be the only real source of information for me when it comes to my Lincoln, the dealers give me the run around trying to milk me for more money, and the local guys are just clueless. So recently, my engine has been running really rough and gas mileage is in the toilet. Then my CEL came on and I got the codes read and it was Engine Running lean and Misfire on Cylinder 4. *Sidebar, I am not a mechanic @ all, I am a computer guy, so I understand and know how to take things apart and put them back together very well. So I change the ignition coil and replace the plug, I know you guys recommend to get all changed at the same time, but my money is really slim right now. After dumping close to 5k into this car over the last year, I am resorting to performing the work myself. So, after the replacement, the misfire came back and the lean code did as well.

Next I decided to replace all plugs, initially ran alittle better but codes came back. Then I changed the MAF Sensor, when I changed that the car was running very well for about 1 week, then the CEL came back on and this time I got a multiple misfire code and the same lean code. That brings me to the point I am at today. After I couldn't do anything with it to repair it I took it to the dealer, $175 later he tells me that the timing "could" be off, but it would cost another $3,000 just to check it out. That type of money I definitely don't have right now. So I am going to give it the old college try and attempt to replace the chain and reset the timing myself. I got a hold of a copy of alldata and have been trying to find the exact info to perform this procedure but I cant make heads or tails out of what they are saying.

I know where to start, but it seems like the information is all spread out in that software and not really spelled out for me. Which brings me here, what I am asking of this community is for tips, advice, how to's......Since I bought this car it has been the thorn in my side, but I love the car and I am willing to spend the time and money when I have it to restore it so to speak. I thank all of you in advance for you help on this matter.
 
I think that you are jumping to an unreasonable conclusion based on almost no evidence. It sounds like the dealer just made a wild guess.

You can do a compression test to determine if any of the cams is out of time.

Bad coils are too common of a problem on these engines to not try replacing them first. The misfire code does not always identify the correct coil.

You replaced the MAF and it ran well for a while. That can't be a slipped timing chain. They don't jump out of and back into time. Do you have one of those oiled air-filters? A bad air filter? Have you tried cleaning the new MAF? Did you check for vacuum leaks?

Last resort - change out the fuel injector on #4.
 
Thanks for the responses guys, well reason why I was leaning towards the timing is because of a ticking sound in the front of the engine on the passenger side. I had to replace the driver side tensioners a little while back. But come to think of it joegr, you might be right, timing doesn't do that.

Quik, the codes now are P0300 and P0174, I know them by heart. Yes I replace the air filter initially, sorry I didn't mention that. In the onset the air filter housing compartment wasn't fully closed so I thought that would fix the lean code, but I closed it up and was still getting the code. I then replaced the filter, and the code was still there.

Can I find the procedure for checking compression in the alldata software? *FYI - If there is any information you guys needed posted from that software please let me know.....
 
O2 sensor is my bet. It took me all of 30 minutes to change out both. I would get them from Bill at Team Ford. Aftermarket sensors may or may not be the required heated type. It may also be time to change the rest of the coils.
 
O2 sensors are p/n 5C5Z-9F472-AA for the V-8 and list for $109.71 and LVC is 64.18 each.

Max
 
Thanks Max, I think I ordered something from you before, the door handle on the driver side. So could this problem in fact stem from the O2 sensors, or is that just the lean code? Would they throw a misfire?
 
So my plan of action is to replace all coils and possible the fuel injector on #4 or all, see if that resolves my problem. If that doesn't check/replace all of the fuel injectors, then if that doesn't work, check/replace the O2 sensor. Only thing about the O2 sensor is that in all my reading I didn't see anywhere how that could affect the running of the engine. I maybe mistaken, but aren't the O2 sensors under the body in the exhaust system? Before and after the catalytic converters?
 
O2 sensors definitely effect the running of the engine. The two forward ones tell the PCM how much to adjust the fuel injector timing to get the right mixture. If the mixture is wrong, then mis-fire and other problems can result.
However, the odds here are than the 02 sensor is okay and correctly telling you that something else is wrong. I wonder if the second MAF went bad?
 
Sounds like Timing Chain to me (same prob right now 4 me)

Been a while since I have posted and like you only come here in times of need as this seems to be the only place on the net with solid LS info....

Anyway I bought my 01 V8 LS with the CEL on. I hooked it up to my ODB reader and pulled similar codes to you, lean in one bank rich in another, random misfires. I was also getting a knocking sound.... Anyway My initial thought was bad coils so I took it to the dealership and paid them 200 to inspect and do a stress test on the coils, they came back saying that a couple coils were bad we recommend you let us replace them at a cost of about 1000. I thanks but no thanks ordered some off of eBay (which suck! the molding on plugs was so crappy that I had to use a dremmel and file to clean them up the slag so that they would fit! But they do work....) and replaced them myself. This still didn't fix the problem.

The next thing I did was to pull all of the fuel injectors out of the car. I then took them to a guy who had a special machine that tests flow, spray, etc... and ultrasonically cleans them. Everything worked fine. Reinstalled the injectors and still same problem.

Besides this I have also replaced my fuel filter. Anyway write now as I type this I too have also resorted to taking my car to the shop again, which is where it sits right now. I received a call from the mechanic (not a dealer) who said you're not going to like what I have to say. The knocking sound, it’s from your timing (did he say cassette??) which is rattling around back there and the misfires are because the timing is so off. Anyway to replace the chain (the car has three of them?) the whole engine needs to be pulled. It will cost about 3k and we don't really want to do it.... and so that's why today I am walking to work in the snow. :(

Can anyone confirm if the above is true about timing chain replacement?
 
Jerzy what year is your car and how many miles are on it?
A few things come to mind as possible culprits here. The first of which is ignition coils, which it seems you've already replaced, so that's out. Next would be your basic vacuum leak, then fuel injectors, O2 sensors, could be a faulty camshaft position sensor, or worst case internal engine damage.
Since you have a code for a lean bank, I think I would start by replacing the first O2 sensor on that side.


Nick, I think the replacement interval for O2 sensors is 100k miles.


Sivioke, Replacing the chains is a pretty intensive job. You don't HAVE to pull the engine to do it, but doing it in the car is a royal pita, and it's almost worth it to go ahead and pull the engine just to make it easier to work on.

There are 4 chains, one primary chain for each, side, and one secondary chain for each side. The primary chains run fro the crankshaft up to the intake camshafts on each side of the engine, and the secondaries just go from the intake cam, right to the exhaust cam.

The ticking sound raises a flag for me. That could be any number of things, from a small exhaust leak, to a worn secondary chain tensioner, or even a noisy fuel injector. Without being able to pinpoint the sound it's kind of hard to say exactly which. From your description it sounds like the shop may be correct.
 
JerzyHustler said:
Thanks for the responses guys, well reason why I was leaning towards the timing is because of a ticking sound in the front of the engine on the passenger side. I had to replace the driver side tensioners a little while back. But come to think of it joegr, you might be right, timing doesn't do that.

Quik, the codes now are P0300 and P0174, I know them by heart. Yes I replace the air filter initially, sorry I didn't mention that. In the onset the air filter housing compartment wasn't fully closed so I thought that would fix the lean code, but I closed it up and was still getting the code. I then replaced the filter, and the code was still there.

Can I find the procedure for checking compression in the alldata software? *FYI - If there is any information you guys needed posted from that software please let me know.....
Click to expand...


A username and password would be useful information :D

I would offer you more help with your problem but I got a little fiasco of my own going on.....if you got a lift I'd definitally be willing to do the work on your car if you'd help me with mine. Just sayin.
 
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