These are the Symptoms..but whats the problem??

NoLimit95 said:
Me and Laser also didn't want AZ alternators but we were forced to really have no option at the time. I already took a nap and 2 1/2 hours have passed and you still haven't had that thing checked lol.

If you have a battery charger, keep a good charge on the battery and it can last you until you get yourself a good rebuilt OEM alt but seriously, AZ and O'Reilly's alternators suck. Yes, they have the lifetime warranty but you spend a lifetime changing them out. Why do you think I got so fast at it?:p
Click to expand...

hahah I am stuck at work brother! I will go on my way home - and then go order one online - Any good brand worth recommending?

Question tho... why would a dying alt cause my car to idle funny when the brakes are first applied? Low RPM = Low Output so it runs off the battery?

Could this be from getting my alt wet when cleaning the engine bay a month ago?
 
The Mark is a very electrically intense car. Remember your fuel pump is electric as well as all the sensors that control the engine. This is why the battery must hold a high amount of volts and the alternator needs to put out same. Don't be suprised that a dead battery will often take out an alternator also.
 
Roadboss said:
The Mark is a very electrically intense car. Remember your fuel pump is electric as well as all the sensors that control the engine. This is why the battery must hold a high amount of volts and the alternator needs to put out same. Don't be suprised that a dead battery will often take out an alternator also.
Click to expand...

Maybe that explains why my car told me I had 23 Miles to empty and within 1 mile it was down to 0...
 
You really need to have both checked. Roadboss is right. If the battery has a dead cell, it could cause the alternator to go bad. mark VIII's are already hard on the alternator as it is but from your description, I would say you're running on the reserve capacity and it's just your alt but having both checked won't hurt.

OEM is really the way to go. O'Reilly's can order an OEM Motorcraft alternator for you or call Maxx over to the right side. O'Reilly's does not keep them in stock but they can get them. The brand they do have in stock is Ultima. Bout as good as Duralast but both do carry lifetime warranties and they both last about as long as the other. I have an AZ alt right now and I'm on my 2nd one since June I think. Not sure when I bought it but it was hot outside. Duralast alternators don't like WOT runs either so if you go that route, keep that in mind.
 
Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max Max

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forumdisplay.php?f=100

5 Star Ford....he gives member discounts......plus he cool!

Did I forget to tell you....CALL MAX!!!

I would replace the Batt. and the Alt.
 
Just a thought...

I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM not long ago. I found that the old cable connector to my battery's + post was the kind that wraps and tightens around the post and it had just gotten really loose. I replaced it with one of the newer style grippy connectors and it's fine now. Sometimes those posts shrink over time as we tighten the connector over and over.
 
fossten said:
Just a thought...

I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM not long ago. I found that the old cable connector to my battery's + post was the kind that wraps and tightens around the post and it had just gotten really loose. I replaced it with one of the newer style grippy connectors and it's fine now. Sometimes those posts shrink over time as we tighten the connector over and over.
Click to expand...

My battery is only 2-3 months old =/ I only wish it was that simple
 
Hiya guys! So I wanted to tell ya'll how it turned out.

The Alt was fine - looks like it was the contact on the batter terminals. They were tight as can be, but still turning and making poor contact. I put shims on them, cost me 1.81 including tax, and BAM runs like a charm now!

Stupid small :q:q:q:q always killing me!! Thankfully that was all!
 
fossten said:
just a thought...

I had the exact same problem not long ago. I found that the old cable connector to my battery's + post was the kind that wraps and tightens around the post and it had just gotten really loose. I replaced it with one of the newer style grippy connectors and it's fine now. Sometimes those posts shrink over time as we tighten the connector over and over.
Click to expand...

winner!
 
Sapperfire said:
Who'da thunk it
Click to expand...

avatar2772_12.gif


Him. See, he's still thinking. :shifty:
 
It's always the simplest thing. I recently experience a similar problem with my wife's Lexus. It wouldn't start. She was stuck at work. I thought to myself, the starter finally quit. After an $80 tow bill, and all day to remove the upper intake, because the starter is there. Replaced the starter, put everything back together and the car wouldn't start. WTF?? Only to find out that the Lexus electrical system don't work well with aftermarket battery connectors. $20 part from Lexuse and it started right up. A $400 lesson for me. :mad:
530103.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 302 (members: 1, guests: 301)
Back
Top