Theives!! Need an alarm!

[FrankLS]

WTF is a PLC?? lol

EDIT, nvrmind Google Owns.. lol


IIRC, I thought that pressing the lock button twice would detach the rods from the lock actuators so that slim jimming wasn't possible. I could re-look that up in my owners manual, I think that's were I read it.

250 for shock sensor and remote start, from the factory would be a steal! I would get it right now for that price.

yeah that is a great price. I put quotation marks around "about" because the guy i was talking to worked in service and said it was give or take 250. He said to call the next day to get a concrete price.

 

[FrankLS]

why, this is how almost all factory systems are, there are a few dealer add ons for shock sensors, but this is the biggest reason that factory systems are pretty weak.

second, i would take back that old ass battery back up they sold you, if a thief is smart enough to kill the alarm, the standard battery back up wont take them much longer to deal with, (a) most common way of shutting off an alarm is to just cut the siren's wires, the alarm can go off as long as it wants to, if it cant send power to the siren, then its not going to make any noise. (b) if they are really hard core and find the system brain, they can just cut the power supple going to the alarm brain itself and render the battery useless.

the newer DEI 515R model
Amazon.com: Install Essentials 515R Self-Powered Rechargeable 6-Tone Siren: Electronics
actually has the battery built in to the siren, so even if they did cut the wires right at the siren, it will still go off (even if the alarm is not triggered somehow) the only way to shut this off is with a special security key, the only thing that the thief could do is rip off the siren and throw it, which in the middle of the night will still make a hell of a racket.


if you really want a good alarm, you should just get a viper, a real fukcing snake.lol just dont feed it enough and it will take care of any thiefs around (best part is that they cant come back ant try it again later)




honestly alex, im not a huge fan, they just seem to add too many false alarms. they also have their short comings, object that move slow enough can reach right in and grab stuff with out setting them off, and they are a pain in the@ss to get just right, either not sensitive enough, or it gives the warn away from people just walking by in parking lots. usually the only time i recommend them is for convertibles.

!! I was debating wether to get the backup battery or the backup battery w/ alarm. Your completely right on that. I probably will return it for the siren one. The Viper 5902 has only 4 aux inputs so dont want to waste any on something that might not work.

 

[FrankLS]

I had a 5901 installed a few weeks back. I'm going to add the proximity sensor when I have time. It's the same as the 5902, main difference is the color display on the remote for the 5902. Someone made a thread when their ls was broken in to a few weeks back. Someone also posted there that the alarm would go off only if the door would've been opened, so 2 weeks later, I got the 5901 installed. Works good, I think I set the sensitivity on the shock sensor too high because some car's exhaust make it go off.

I was debating wether to purchase the proximity sensors but the viper rep told me that he would only recommend one for a jeep or a convertible. He said that once the sensitivity of the sensor is set, it can change due to temperature. I really wanted the sensor but im already spending a few bucks due to this incident and decided to go without. If i had the money i would probably go with it.

 

[1LoudLS]

The Viper 5902 has only 4 aux inputs so dont want to waste any on something that might not work.

no the aux channels are to control devices from the remote, lik windows up, down, fuel filler pop, that battery back up has nothing to do with the aux channels.

also with the LS, you can wire it up so the you can roll up and down the windows from the remote without having to buy anything else (other than a few diodes) just make sure that your installer knows what he is doing, the LS is not a easy car to install a remote start in.

 

[FrankLS]

I had a viper 350 on my old blazer before the LS and loved the thing 2 way pager is the way to go and you cant go wrong with a viper alarm in my opinion.

HOLY COW. I just saw your sig pic FRANKLS... i want pictures of the truck! details! is that a suicidedoors setup i see...

Good Eye! thats the kit from suicide doors. I still have lots of work to do on it. Not a show truck by any means so dont plan on making the set up too pretty, but ill paint it up for rust protection

 

[FrankLS]

no the aux channels are to control devices from the remote, lik windows up, down, fuel filler pop, that battery back up has nothing to do with the aux channels.

also with the LS, you can wire it up so the you can roll up and down the windows from the remote without having to buy anything else (other than a few diodes) just make sure that your installer knows what he is doing, the LS is not a easy car to install a remote start in.

oh thanks. for some reason i thought that the backup battery would take up one of those channels. The guy said he would have to charge extra to make the trunk work with the remote. He said i would have to pay for a relay he would need to use. I dont even want to ask about the window up down feature yet. The aftermarket viper window automation module only controls 2 windows so itd be better to hook up the old system work.

 

[1LoudLS]

well you dont need a relay for trunk pop, it is a low current negative trigger, you do need one for fuel pop if you would like, and one for the second acc wire at the ignition harness (this is optional for 1st gens but necessary for 2nd gens to keep it from throwing a CEL)

the DEI window module sucks, its a pain in the a$$ to install, and you have to cut up the wires for the motor in both doors (expensive) the car already has the electronics to control all of the windows (and the sun roof), and you already have to run wire into the drivers door and tap in to the correct wires (the window wires and the lock wire are the same wires) all you have to do is to join the wires together and isolate them with diodes (pennies a piece) i sent a wire diagram to alex for his install, i can either e-mail them to you or maybe alex can post them up on the site. its actually very easy to do and they shouldnt charge you that much more for an extra 5 mins worth of work.

 

[FrankLS]

that would be great if you could email me the diagram. murillousmc@hotmail.com. We've been talking about the stock factory window operation as an up/dwn feature. As far as i know the factory key fob only allows you to lower the windows and open the sunroof. Is there any way to allow the system to close them as well.

 

[BlackLS06]

Yeah but if you insert the key and turn it to the right and hold it they all roll back up.

 

[1LoudLS]

the wires that need to be tapped into for the viper to control the locks are the wires that go from the key cylinder to the DDM, and locking the doors with the key and holding the key turned will roll them up, its fukcing stupid on ford's part to leave that functionality out of the factory fob when its already built into the car, these are also the wires that control the factory alarm

 

[joegr]

...its fukcing stupid on ford's part to leave that functionality out of the factory fob when its already built into the car, these are also the wires that control the factory alarm

They left it out for legal reasons. They didn't want to get sued when someone had their hand caught (guess they don't fully trust the bounce back feature) when someone remotely rolled the windows up.

They were sued (and lost) when someone let an auto up power antenna extend up into their nose and cause brain damage. After that, all their power antennas required you to hold a switch to raise the antenna. I don't think they do power antennas at all now, they mostly just use the in-glass antennas.

Lawyers ruin it for all of us...

 

[ShortCircutLS]

OMG an antenna ? That's just plain slow reaction time. Or they already had brain damage. I tell you what , if I have a power antenna making its way up my nose. The first thing that I'd do would be grab the dang thing and bend or brake it ! How can one just stand there and let a power antenna go up your nose. Crazy

 

[1LoudLS]

They left it out for legal reasons. They didn't want to get sued when someone had their hand caught (guess they don't fully trust the bounce back feature) when someone remotely rolled the windows up.

i guess that makes sense, i always thought that the cheap plastic parts on the window regulator was a back up plan for if the bounce back feature failed.lol

 

[BlackLS06]

They were sued (and lost) when someone let an auto up power antenna extend up into their nose and cause brain damage. After that, all their power antennas required you to hold a switch to raise the antenna. I don't think they do power antennas at all now, they mostly just use the in-glass antennas.

Lawyers ruin it for all of us...

Why would a power antenna be around someones nose in the first place?

wtf??

 

[FrankLS]

OMG an antenna ? That's just plain slow reaction time. Or they already had brain damage. I tell you what , if I have a power antenna making its way up my nose. The first thing that I'd do would be grab the dang thing and bend or brake it ! How can one just stand there and let a power antenna go up your nose. Crazy

that is really hard to beleive. Im guessing it could of also been done on purpose. I deff wouldnt risk brain damage for a million dlls or however much money.
Everytime i hear stories like these i remember when that lady sued mcdnlds and won when she got burnt by her coffee.