Plain and simple, any way to test a clock spring to see if it is bad? My cruise control will not engage at all. No lights on dash when button is pressed . i've read it can either be a servo or clock spring problem. Just want to rule one of them out before throwing money at it.
Testing a clock spring?
- Thread starter fudge12
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RigsLS
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paste into google:
"clock spring" site:http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/
Also,
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=lincoln+ls+clock+spring
"clock spring" site:http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/
Also,
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=lincoln+ls+clock+spring
Yes it does unfortunately. I'm just hoping that what ever I fix now will hopefully be the last I fix for a while. But it dosen't seem so.
scjmc
Dedicated LVC Member
If you are going to keep the car and it hasn't been done before then changing the clockspring won't be a waste of money.
I do plan to keep it. I hope the clockspring isn't much of a hassle to install.
Just a list of what has to be done:
*Upper control arm
*Lower left ball joint
*Driver Valve cover gasket (Includes COPs)
*Motor mounts
*Find reason for vibration in rear
*Chain Tensioner (Maybe)
*Oil change
List of stuff that had been done since may:
*Tranny rebuild
*Front tie rods
*New brakes
Just a list of what has to be done:
*Upper control arm
*Lower left ball joint
*Driver Valve cover gasket (Includes COPs)
*Motor mounts
*Find reason for vibration in rear
*Chain Tensioner (Maybe)
*Oil change
List of stuff that had been done since may:
*Tranny rebuild
*Front tie rods
*New brakes
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You don't want to put that one off.
If you're doing ball joints plan on doing sway bar end links(cheap) and outer tie rod ends while you're in there. You may not have a choice since sometimes it's almost impossible to remove the knuckle to get to the ball joints without cutting them off. The biggest PIA is the rear bolt on the driver's side upper control arm. A wratcheting wrench is very helpful here. Also usually it's best to replace all of these parts in pairs.
Why motor mounts? Can you see your motor move?
For vibration in rear...if the tires, rims, balance and alignments are all good. THEN I would look at rear sway bar end links, rear sway bar bushings, and rear toe links. But really I think you will be surprised how much alignment will affect vibration.....But no sense in getting the alignment done until you replace all of those front end parts.(and rear if they're bad)
Oh and make sure you get the right size ball joints. Put your VIN number into Ford's parts website and it will tell you what size. You can't rely on whether you have a sport/non sport or what year if it's a gen I.....trust me. It has more to do with when the car was manufactured.
I ment the passenger side upper control arm lol. Is the control arm pretty straight forward to remove?
As per the motor mounts, 2 different mechanics have told me that they are bad. One of them said it was obviously bad because of the change in height of the car when it is engaged in gear. Not too sure if he was just being a PITA to juice me out of my money.
As per the motor mounts, 2 different mechanics have told me that they are bad. One of them said it was obviously bad because of the change in height of the car when it is engaged in gear. Not too sure if he was just being a PITA to juice me out of my money.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Motor mounts aren't really a factor in ride height on RWD. It is completely normal for a RWD car to squat a little when put in gear. You need to find better "mechanics" if they really don't know that.
It's unlikely you have bad motor mounts unless you are getting excessive engine vibration, or the engine rocks too much side to side when you rev it in gear.
will simply replacing a front sway bar end link require an alignment?
no