T-Stat housing replacement

pektel said:
No f*cking 8mm crow foot wrench anywhere in town. :mad:

Have to order one from Snap-On methinks. $17 a pop.
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I feel your pain. I had to buy an entire kit and then modify the one that I got to work.
 
1LoudLS said:
YET!


a man can never have enough tools
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Don't I know it. But I'm not going to drop $200+ on a full Snap On set at the moment.

Found this at the hardware store for ~$12. I'm thinking it should do the trick:

DSC00687.jpg


DSC00686.jpg


Made by Gear Wrench, 8mm, ratcheting, and can pivot 180 degrees. Throw a vice grips on the top, and I think it may just work!
 
$200:eek:, now i know why i dont let the snap on guy stop by my shop. lol

is there not a sears or craftsman store anywhere near you?
 
EDIT: Posted while I was trying to bleed the system. Let the car idle for 10+ minutes, and got next to nothing out of the air bleed. Heat works okay, but works much better when rpm's are over 2000
 
EDIT: Posted while I was trying to bleed the system. Let the car idle for 10+ minutes, and got next to nothing out of the air bleed. Heat works okay, but works much better when rpm's are over 2000. Also seemed it took longer for the engine to reach operating temp. Wondering if I have a faulty thermostat, in addition to whatever issue is causing no coolant to stream from the air bleed.
 
pektel said:
EDIT: Posted while I was trying to bleed the system. Let the car idle for 10+ minutes, and got next to nothing out of the air bleed. Heat works okay, but works much better when rpm's are over 2000. Also seemed it took longer for the engine to reach operating temp. Wondering if I have a faulty thermostat, in addition to whatever issue is causing no coolant to stream from the air bleed.
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Do you have the engine fill and the degas cap on tight, and the climate control on 90 while trying to bleed?

Worse case, you can drive it a mile or so to get it up to full temperature.
 
You know, I can't recall if I torqued the engine fill cap... I remember hand tightening it as much as I could, but do not remember grabbing the ratchet. Ha, that could very well be the problem.

I'm at work right now, so I don't have my tools. But I'll confirm when I get home.
 
BE VERY CAREFUL ON THAT CAP.
Just sayin'.

You have air somewhere that is preventing proper coolant flow. Re-do the procedure from the start.
FWIW, I found it to work slightly better if the car was pointed downhill, my theory being that raised the heater core. It's still not above the engine, but still.
 
Hey guys, Im very new to this forum but i recently bought an 03 lincoln ls v8, about a week after ive had it, i cap busted off of my coolant outlet pipe spitting coolant everywhere and a massive engine temp. spike. (obviously). Ive talked to a couple mechanics both saying there are numerous of parts i need to buy to make this fix happen. is there anyone on this site that can help me with what i need exactly or someone who has had the same problem that has been through it??? please send me a message or just message on here. please and thanks.

These are the parts that i need i think so far.

8575 - thermostat
8590x2 - thermostat housing seal and coolant outlet gasket
8255Ax2 - thermostat coolant gaskets
8548c - coolant outlet assembly (dont know much about this though having a hard time getting info.)
 
Anyone have torque specs for the bolts that hold the housing to the engine block? I replaced mine with the jag aluminum in march and finally found my leak around the base of the housing.

Also, I think i read to wet the gasket with sealant first some where? Any truth to this. I was thinking of doing a thin layer of gasket maker to help seal it up but im unsure
 
Edit: I read to coat the gasket in COOLANT before assembly, and is there any truth to that
 
Broseph said:
Edit: I read to coat the gasket in COOLANT before assembly, and is there any truth to that
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Yes, you want to lubricate all rubber gaskets or o-rings to make sure they don't roll out of the way or get pinched during installation. You don't have to use coolant, but you want to make sure whatever you use is compatible with the seals and with the coolant.

For your other question, I suspect that Jaguar's torque spec for the aluminum housing would be more accurate to use than the Lincoln spec for the plastic housing. In reality, you should be able to do it by feel pretty well.
 
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