suspension once and for all

I am rebuilding my front suspension and found that Raybestos Part #5451102B sway bar end links available at Rock Auto for $15.57 are actually TRW end links and look exactly like the ones Jaime has pictured, except no nuts included (use you old ones).
 
Does Eddie sell the Arnott UCAs or Moog? I checked his site and it doesn't specify.
 
So I am starting to see more part #'s and stuff pop up after the first post. It would help even more if all these things get added to the first post as well. Also, "Most Commonly Replaced Parts" would be cool too.
 
Raped Ape said:
bushing quality and b/j blowouts or going bad in a short amount of time. Just overall quality compared to a Moog or OEM. But is you do not care about repeating the install and replacement and the cost to buy new ones in a yr, then nothing is wrong with them. But if you want to do it once and and last, then MOOG is the way to go.
Click to expand...

I have the Arnott upper control arms and got them on the advice of the "Mark VIII Suspension expert" here. He has them on his car as well. Granted I have less than 10k miles on them, but so far they are fine. They are not the cheap e-bay chinese ones. The ball-joint is a Meyle name brand part, which is a high quality part.

I know people here have blow out the chinese e-bay upper control arms, I'm not sure about the arnott ones??

I'm not saying this because I'm a fan of Arnott, because I am not..........I had their remanufactured air struts and they sucked and I also got their rear shocks and mounts, and they were worse.

Ken
 
for the DIY, are there any special tools required to remove any of the suspension components? Air tools, etc.?
 
Magnetico said:
for the DIY, are there any special tools required to remove any of the suspension components? Air tools, etc.?
Click to expand...

pb blaster and an (i use electric) impact wrench is the jam on rusty bolts.
but it can all be done with a socket and wrench set.
 
I just replaced a set of moog front sway bar bushings. The one on the right had failed completely. The reason though I'm not sure of. I don't remember putting them on but I had the 'larger' bushing on the side of the frame that would be on the 'front' of the car and the smaller bushing on the backside (toward the wheel). When I got the parts from autozone (black) the smaller bushing said 'F' on it so I put it on the front. Dunno if I did this right just needed to get it done so I could drive the car. I'm going back and replacing the other side with the black strut rod bushings on friday but need to know which bushing is the 'front' and which goes in the 'back' (side of the frame on the wheel side).

Thanks. (the moog bushing had split along the seem all the way to the interior)
 
chris2523 said:
pb blaster and an (i use electric) impact wrench is the jam on rusty bolts.
but it can all be done with a socket and wrench set.
Click to expand...

I bought an electric impact gun once and it sucked terribly. A Fisher Price tool could have done better.
 
Magnetico said:
I bought an electric impact gun once and it sucked terribly. A Fisher Price tool could have done better.
Click to expand...

:lol: that sucks. mine looks like its been through hell and and back, and i've replaced the cord a few a times. its still a beast.
 
Hi guys - so I am comparing part numbers from Moog listed in the thread vs on RockAuto and they are all almost different. Also, what is the proper "diameter" of my front swaybar on my 97 LSC? Seems there's a bunch of different sizes...


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I would assume they are the same. You can measure using a caliper if you are unsure
 
You're paying $60+ more than you need to on those lower control arms compared to the price on Amazon.
 
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