Suggestions on "threading" wires for rear cam

[purevilpleasure]

I'm ready to finally get off my dead rear and finish the stereo install....mic, fix the ground issue with DVD/Parking Brake thing, and the rear cam.

So those of you who have a rear cam, where and how did you bring your wires into the trunk?

If you have pics I would appreciate.

I don't want to really do any drilling if possible.

thanks.

 

[M4rk]

I wanted my install as clean as possible, so I drilled a hole behind the license plate and pulled the wire though there. My camera is a frame itself, same as Andrizzle and Alax have:



http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20584_BOYO-Vision-VTL375.html

 

[purevilpleasure]

That is nice.

I love how they did the wife's on her new Fusion....it's tucked up under pretty nice.

Got a pic or 2?

Thanks

 

[Andrizzle]

Yea that one is pro.

I ran my wires directly up the console through the middle of the car. Along with my RCAs/turn on lead for amp.

 

[purevilpleasure]

I have my wires running the same way.

Just wasn't sure how I wanted to get those wires from the cam in.

Behind the plate might be the best look.

 

[Andrizzle]

That camera, m4rk posted above, has the cord exit in one of the corners of the frame, so you can line it up and drill a tiny hole for it to pass through directly. It even comes with a little rubber grommet.

 

[G-RELL]

mine went here

the camera had a treaded post on the back... if you remove the surround, there is a small plate on the outside of the trunk lid... drill through that and route the wire to the harness that runs on the right side of the trunk hinge, then run along the back seat and up to the center console.

The camera has to be double sided taped there (came with mine) because onct the surrounds back on, you cant access it..

then use the trunk light to power it... Just remember, the light has a constant power source. careful you wire correctly or you might drain the battery

 

[purevilpleasure]

I have my power wire coming from my HU if I remember.....jeeze I can't remember now, I have it all written down some where...but where?

 

[1LoudLS]

my camera mounts using the license plates top bolts, i drilled a hole in the plastic behind the plate to bring the wire in, and used hot glue to seal the hole back up, once on the inside of the trunk lid, i ran the wires through the OEM wire channel to the body, then i ran the wire in to the cabin across the top of the trunk then ran the RCA wire up the right side of the car. instead of running the wire under the trim on the bottom of the car, i ran it under the weather seal up the top of the roof to keep the wire from picking up any noise from being too close to the main power wires of the car.

 

[G-RELL]

i ran it under the weather seal up the top of the roof to keep the wire from picking up any noise from being too close to the main power wires of the car.

smart!

anyone using the REM wire? how hard was it to get to?

 

[purevilpleasure]

I think my original intent is to have the ground run off the backup lights...I'll have to see what I have going on tonight.

 

[G-RELL]

back up lights do not have a "Ground"... they have constant power with a "grounded switch" (if I understand correctly)


some good info in here

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...tallation-Proceedure-w-front-factory-tweeters

34) Adding a rear view camera...(The LS uses a module to operate all the rear lights. It sends a ground signal to a light bulb to activate tail lamp, brake lamp, reverse lamp.) The camera operates with a (+) signal to turn on the camera. The camera power has to come from the battery saver circuit. The most convenient source is at the right rear trunk lamp (+) circuit. This is always on when the car ignition is on and activates when the key FOB is activated or the door is opened. A separate relay has to be installed to provide the head unit with a (+) signal instead of a (-) signal during reverse lamp activation. A wire from the (-) module side of the reverse lamp has to be run from the trunk lid wiring under the rear seat to the center console. A relay then has to be installed using a (+) circuit at on of the connectors under the console. Use the (-) signal from the module to trigger the relay coil to provide a (+) signal to the radio head unit.
Pin 85 (-) signal from reverse lamps
Pin 86 (+) positive signal from battery saver circuit at connecter under console.
Pin 30 (+) from battery saver circuit.
Pin 87 (+) signal to radio head unit reverse signal.
Pin 87a not used.

Do not use the amp power wire to turn on the camera. All cameras have a heating element to keep the lense from fogging. Too much current for the amp turn on circuit. This will overload the circuit and cause intermittent failure.

 

[purevilpleasure]

Yeah I remember reading that.

Now here is the fun thing that I just found out.....um my cam doesn't seem to care if it has a ground to it....that's fun.

 

[G-RELL]

Yeah I remember reading that.

Now here is the fun thing that I just found out.....um my cam doesn't seem to care if it has a ground to it....that's fun.

It works without?!?!

or not working at all?

 

[joegr]

Yeah I remember reading that.

Now here is the fun thing that I just found out.....um my cam doesn't seem to care if it has a ground to it....that's fun.

I would suspect that it is picking up the ground from the shield of the video cable. It would still be best to connect a fixed power ground at the camera too.

 

[purevilpleasure]

I'm guessing the same thing.

It works, I just have to get the wire for the reverse trigger some time...it's not the prettiest cam, but it's IR and is pretty good picture. And thanks to you all the install is nice and clean.

I installed the second ground...the power wire is running from the acc from the HU....so when the key is off it is off...double checked.

I do work in a wire manufacturing plant since 1996 so wiring is usually one thing I know...but I'm use to Cat, Deere, Pierce, ect.

 

[1LoudLS]

I would suspect that it is picking up the ground from the shield of the video cable. It would still be best to connect a fixed power ground at the camera too.

+1 This.


I would also expect for it to fail prematurely if not properly grounded.











on a similar side note, had some dude come in to the shop the other day. he is a self proclaimed "wire guy". he says that he has "fixed up" in tons of radios. he has a chysler cirrus, mid 90's and he fixed up his own radio, the problem he is having is that the radio works fine when the volume is below 5 (it goes up to 35) but when turned up to 5 or above, it instantly shuts off and then turns back on and will repeat this loop until turned down below 5.

he then proceeds to tell me that the reason its doing this is because he has fixed up some legacy 500 watt speakers all the way around and dat dem be so thuursty, dat dey sucking the radio dry... and then wanted to know if i had a 2000 watt 4ch that could feed them properly #RollsEyes


well i've got all the info i need at this point, and tell him that i will trouble shoot it an mostly likely can fix the problem in 15 min for $20 (standard shop rate is $80/hr), we usually have a 30 min minimum but i know what was wrong and it was a pretty easy fix and i had already wasted over 20 min listening to him try to tell me what is wrong...

guy hears this and just flips out, telling me that i should just fix it for him cause he has already done the install work for me.
after another 10 mins of this he tells me to go ahead. pop the radio out and exactly as i thought, the only ground the radio had was through the shielding of the antenna wire! since all chrysler vehicles before 2000-2002 dont have a ground in the harness, they usually have a ground strap or wire clipped on separately. (the crazy part is that on that entire generation of cirrus/stratus that is actually how the factory did that) works find for the small amp in the oem radio, but as soon as the current draw picks up, the shield cant keep up.

best $20 of my week!

 

[ACDiecast]

I'm ready to finally get off my dead rear and finish the stereo install....mic, fix the ground issue with DVD/Parking Brake thing, and the rear cam.

So those of you who have a rear cam, where and how did you bring your wires into the trunk?

If you have pics I would appreciate.

I don't want to really do any drilling if possible.

thanks.

Hey folks, not to bring a thread back from the dead here...but how did you get the RCA cable from the decklid all the way to the HU? I'm about to put mine in and I'm thinking I don't want to tear all of the interior up if I don't have to.

Thanks!

 

[joegr]

I routed it on the right hinge inside the snap together conduit that the other trunk lid wiring is in. Then pull the right side trunk trim back at the top and route the wiring through there. Remove the rear seat bottom (just two lever catches), and fold the right side seat down. fish the wire down beside the main bundle of wiring going from the trunk to the cabin. Remove the floor trim at the rear right door. Pull the door gasket out at the bottom and part way up. Remove the floor trim at the right front door. Pull the door gasket out at the bottom and part way up. Remove the right front kick panel. Either remove the lower B pillar on the right, or just pull the bottom part of it loose. Pull the carpet back part way and open the conduit that runs on right side. Put the camera wiring in there. Run it up to the dash on the right side behind the kick panel, and strap it in under the passenger side dash.

Sounds like more work than it really is.