Steering wheel removal/ Clockspring....

Lownslowlsc

Lownslowlsc

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Well the time has come. Clockspring is out(code 32), cc is inop but everything else work's. It usually start's flashing during turn's and not very often.
The problem is my steering wheel won't budge. I found this out 4 years ago when I wanted to install a new mfs as mine was missing the chrome button. I ended up just popping a new button back in. Anyway's, used a puller and it stripped the wheel with ease. Used all 230lbs's of my old self and it still didn't pop off. What are my option's here? Tap in new ones? Bust out the torch? lol...Or just take out the bulb :)

I did read a thread where somebody said a mech put on loctite after a over travel repair. :eek: It's the only thing that would make sense in my case.



P.s. Will the airbag's be inop if i'm getting an intermitent srs light?
 
I would tap the next size up and then as you have pressure on the puller and shaft give the wheel some love with a hammer and drift close to the splines. Sometimes the impacts will break things free. Did this with mine last year when I changed to the C/E wheel.
 
If you're hand pulling, make sure to leave the bolt on (loose) or you'll knock your teeth out if it does end up letting loose. This is what I was told by Jamie when he mentioned that I needed to put my black wheel in and as many Marks as he has disassembled, I would hope he was telling me the right thing. He told me to pull with all I had but..... I never bothered switching lol.
 
I would drop the column and remove it so you can get more leverage. That is what I had to do.
 
LSC HUNTER said:
I would tap the next size up and then as you have pressure on the puller and shaft give the wheel some love with a hammer and drift close to the splines. Sometimes the impacts will break things free. Did this with mine last year when I changed to the C/E wheel.
Click to expand...

That'll prob be the next step. Thank's

NoLimit95 said:
If you're hand pulling, make sure to leave the bolt on (loose) or you'll knock your teeth out if it does end up letting loose. This is what I was told by Jamie when he mentioned that I needed to put my black wheel in and as many Marks as he has disassembled, I would hope he was telling me the right thing. He told me to pull with all I had but..... I never bothered switching lol.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I remember hearing that the first time I started messing with it. It's a good tip ;)

Alexander B. Sonin said:
I pour WD-40 waiting, and use a Puller Gear Steering Wheel.
See e-bay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/46pc-Harmon..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e6b4cc4c6
Click to expand...

I'll prob do that with a mixture of what Hunter suggested.


pwnisher17 said:
I don't know much but lock tite breaks down with heat or acetone
Click to expand...


fastmark1993 said:
Depending on which kind of loctite all the heat does is make it a liquid again persay..
Click to expand...

That's a last resort. Speaking of which, is it even possible? Anything inside that would melt,?I'd imagine so. It's been a while since I peaked in there.


marked8 said:
I would drop the column and remove it so you can get more leverage. That is what I had to do.
Click to expand...

If soaking and re-tapping don't work I might just have to do this.



Thank's guy's.
 
One question of mine that wasn't answered....

Since my light only flashes sometimes (with code, never stays lit), are my air bags going to be disabled?
 
I tried pulling the wheel off my 97 parts car. I had puller bolts buried all the way in wheel and it pulled out the threads no problem. I was like WTF. I then used my 2 jaw puller which JUST fit and pulled it off no problem.
 
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