Stalling when put into gear

JoshMcMadMac

JoshMcMadMac

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
May 3, 2004
Messages
3,428
Reaction score
33
Location
Waynesboro, PA
2005 V8 LS. From what I can tell it drives perfectly fine when cold. Once the engine gets up to temperature, it is temperamental. Since the car is already in drive at this point, the first indicator is that when coming to a stop, the vehicle will lurch/lunge right after stopping. However, once the vehicle is parked (and still warm) it will not go into gear without stalling. I noticed this initially with going into reverse, but it applies to going into any gear. It will start in neutral, although it takes a bit to get it going. There has not been any check engine light, but for some reason I cannot get my code reader to talk to the car to check for anything. Any ideas?
 
Sounds like

sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere, check all hoses for splits, check tighteners, snug up.
 
tireman said:
sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere, check all hoses for splits, check tighteners, snug up.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing, and I think I can hear "something" like that when I put it in gear. It is pretty tough to get my ear in the engine compartment of a running vehicle in gear, though. :p The only thing that makes me wonder...why would it only be an issue in gear, and at temperature?
 
With the added symptom of lurching, this sounds more like a transmission, specifically torque converter, problem - rather than a vacuum leak.
 
2000sport said:
With the added symptom of lurching, this sounds more like a transmission, specifically torque converter, problem - rather than a vacuum leak.
Click to expand...

Agreed, torque converter, or the control to it. Maybe the solenoid is heating up and sticking?
 
hey joe

does the v8 have the IAC valve like the gen 1 models? remember that when it goes out you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it moving or else it dies out. ??????????????
 
A bad IAC valve wouldnt allow it to run when in P or N either.

Which kind of rules it out.
 
tireman said:
does the v8 have the IAC valve like the gen 1 models? remember that when it goes out you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it moving or else it dies out. ??????????????
Click to expand...

The gen II V8 does not have an IAC. (Neither does the gen II V6.)
 
Agreed on the torque converter. My wifes old Pontiac had the same symptoms when hers went bad. The local shop just disconnected the control to the TC so it would be driveable until it could be replaced.
 
I still cannot get the code reader to communicate with the car. It has pulled codes off of the Lincoln before, and I verified it still works on the other vehicle. The xCal2 is still able to get the strategy code and says no codes, though.

I have a set of other ignition coils that I might throw on it just to rule it out.
 
Last edited:
Best shot is still something related to the torque converter.

Might want to take it in to confirm
 
Sounds more vacuum leak to me, and reason why not when cold cause engine runs richer when cold so is getting more fuel at that time to equal the added air not accounted for. I dont know how tempermental these cars are if throttle body was cleaned and it is one of those that say not to clean. I have cleaned many without an issue, but last year I cleaned a fellow members on his Mark VIII and low and behold first time for everything. He had to get another throttle body to stop the erratic idle after it was cleaned. FIrst time ever happened to me.
 
If it had a vacuum leak bad enough to stall the car under load, it would idle horrendously.
 
I bought the updated solenoid pack today since it was a new, in-box Ford part for cheap on eBay to throw at it when it gets here. In preparation for that, I got the front end of the Lincoln jacked up and was going to get the connector and pan pulled. I figured I could check and see if the stalling was still only when hot...it is not. However, it is idling a little bit rough now, so I chased that a little bit.

The engine is cold, less than two minutes total running time between a few starts. It is idling at ~1k RPM, slightly rough. I pulled the vacuum line off of the brake booster, and let the idle settle back to ~1k RPM. When I put the transmission into reverse, the idle dips to ~500 RPM, but then evens back out. Reattaching the vacuum line to the brake booster, putting the transmission into reverse stalls the engine.

So, now I am torn if I am chasing a vacuum issue, transmission issue, or both.
 
JoshMcMadMac said:
I bought the updated solenoid pack today since it was a new, in-box Ford part for cheap on eBay to throw at it when it gets here. In preparation for that, I got the front end of the Lincoln jacked up and was going to get the connector and pan pulled. I figured I could check and see if the stalling was still only when hot...it is not. However, it is idling a little bit rough now, so I chased that a little bit.

The engine is cold, less than two minutes total running time between a few starts. It is idling at ~1k RPM, slightly rough. I pulled the vacuum line off of the brake booster, and let the idle settle back to ~1k RPM. When I put the transmission into reverse, the idle dips to ~500 RPM, but then evens back out. Reattaching the vacuum line to the brake booster, putting the transmission into reverse stalls the engine.

So, now I am torn if I am chasing a vacuum issue, transmission issue, or both.
Click to expand...

Okay. Start the engine and put you foot on the brake. Do not shift the transmission out of park. What happens? Does it hardly notice the brake being applied or does it want to stall?

If it wants to stall, repeat the test with the vacuum line to the booster plugged off. These tests should let you determine if you have a vacuum booster problem, an electrical (brake related) problem, or if it's still more likely to be the transmission.
 
joegr said:
Okay. Start the engine and put you foot on the brake. Do not shift the transmission out of park. What happens? Does it hardly notice the brake being applied or does it want to stall?

If it wants to stall, repeat the test with the vacuum line to the booster plugged off. These tests should let you determine if you have a vacuum booster problem, an electrical (brake related) problem, or if it's still more likely to be the transmission.
Click to expand...

When I put everything (vacuum lines) as it should be, it does not want to stall when the brakes are applied (it does not care that the brakes are applied).
 
JoshMcMadMac said:
When I put everything (vacuum lines) as it should be, it does not want to stall when the brakes are applied (it does not care that the brakes are applied).
Click to expand...

I think I misunderstood what you were doing. If you just disconnected the vacuum line to the booster and didn't plug it off, it makes sense and I still say torque converter issue. You were giving the engine more air to be able to overcome the added load.
 
joegr said:
I think I misunderstood what you were doing. If you just disconnected the vacuum line to the booster and didn't plug it off, it makes sense and I still say torque converter issue. You were giving the engine more air to be able to overcome the added load.
Click to expand...

Yes, that sounds right. I pulled the brake booster line, plugged it, and the car stalled going into gear.

I also disconnected the MAF sensor, with no change.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 245 (members: 0, guests: 245)
Back
Top