SPSully
Dedicated LVC Member
OK, so its been discussed lately how the LS has the SST set up for push forward to up shift and pull back for down shift. I didn't like that and after some chatting on here, went outside to fix it. The SST function is an electronic function of the tranny controlled by two normally closed micro switches. When you move the shifter, one of the switches stops being depressed and signals to the computer to shift in that direction. In stock form, the up shift switch is to the rear of the car and the down shift switch is to the front. I looked into switching the wires from the switches, but the two wires going to the front switch are long and the two going to the back switch are short. It can be done this way if you don't have the tools for pulling pins from harnesses. I switched the harness pins.
This has all been done on my first gen. Second gens should be close, but always use your judgment over my write up. This is merely a guide. It took me about an hours worth of work, though knowing how to do it, Id say it can be done in 15-30 minutes.
Tools needed:
Ratchet with 6"extension and 8mm socket
#2 Phillips screw driver
T20 torx bit screwdriver
wire cutters/strippers
4 quick disconnect pairs (both male and female)
electrical tape
Pin remover (if you are going to change the pins in the harness)
First you need to get to the shifter. Start by pulling the trim panel off from around the ashtray.
Then pull the top of the center console off. The front lifts straight up and then the back slides forward and then up. I'd put it in the passenger seat so you can use the cup holders for the screws your about to take out. You need to remove the traction control harness from the switch.
Once you get the top off, you pull the back vents off. Just firmly pull toward the back of the car at the top. You will see how the clips are holding it in. Just be firm and gentle at the same time.
Now unplug the connector for the power outlet.
Next you need to unscrew 7 screws to get the rest of the console out of the way. Start with the two in the front going into the dash. They are 8mm bolts.
Then move to the one screw holding the ventilation to the console close to the back of the drivers seat.
Lastly there are four torx bit screws holding the metal bracket and the console together. Unscrew those and then push the back of the console towards the front a bit so it unhooks from the metal bracket.
Now you can lift the whole thing off. You are going to need to play with it a bit to make it work. I passed the ebrake boot through the slot and pulled the ebrake as far back as I could so it would be almost a straight upward lift.
Now if you are going to switch the pins, you don't have to take anything else apart. Just pull the harness apart and start swapping pins. You want to take the yellow pin 4 and switch it with the blue pin 9. Then switch the red pin 5 with the black pin 0. Reassemble everything and test drive.
If you are going to change the wiring you will want the shifter top out of the way. The bottom of the shifter knob pulls straight down and reveals two Philips screws. Once the screws are removed, squeeze the trigger and lift up on the knob.
To remove the top plate, there are four spots below it where white clips need to be squeezed with a set of needle nose pliers and the entire piece comes up. You will have to remove the bulbs from the side of the unit in order to get enough clearance over the shifter. They come out by twisting them counter clockwise.
Now you can see the two switches and if you want to see how they work, just use the shifter like normal and move it to the different locations. Pretty simple stuff, but it may give a better idea of how the shifter on these cars works.
OK so this is where your skills and available pieces of electronic stuff comes into play. I had the quick disconnects handy, so thats what I was planning on using. I screwed up my wire cutting so had to change the pins. I will walk you through not screwing up so you don't make the same mistake I did.
Trace the blue/black and yellow/red wire pairs from the harness about 2-3i inches and then cut BOTH pairs at the same location. I recommend using the quick disconnect in case you don't like it and want to switch back. Crimp the male ends to the switch side of the wires and the female to the harness side. You have to be consistent with this or you'll have to redo them. If you need more room to work, the switches are clipped in on both sides and can be removed pretty quickly and easily. I pulled mine out, but its not needed.
Now you have the length needed on both sets of wires. My picture doesnt! You can plug the back switch into the front harness wires and visa versa. Plug the yellow into the blue and red into the black. Wrap the quick disconnects in electrical tape so they don't short to each other. Now you're done, so reassemble everything and get her on the road!
I looked at the bottom of the top plate assy that you pulled off. I was going to change the "+" and "-" but it looks like the black piece is riveted to the white part. I stopped and didnt bother with it at that point. It may come up later that I want it changed, but not right now.
This has all been done on my first gen. Second gens should be close, but always use your judgment over my write up. This is merely a guide. It took me about an hours worth of work, though knowing how to do it, Id say it can be done in 15-30 minutes.
Tools needed:
Ratchet with 6"extension and 8mm socket
#2 Phillips screw driver
T20 torx bit screwdriver
wire cutters/strippers
4 quick disconnect pairs (both male and female)
electrical tape
Pin remover (if you are going to change the pins in the harness)
First you need to get to the shifter. Start by pulling the trim panel off from around the ashtray.
Then pull the top of the center console off. The front lifts straight up and then the back slides forward and then up. I'd put it in the passenger seat so you can use the cup holders for the screws your about to take out. You need to remove the traction control harness from the switch.
Once you get the top off, you pull the back vents off. Just firmly pull toward the back of the car at the top. You will see how the clips are holding it in. Just be firm and gentle at the same time.
Now unplug the connector for the power outlet.
Next you need to unscrew 7 screws to get the rest of the console out of the way. Start with the two in the front going into the dash. They are 8mm bolts.
Then move to the one screw holding the ventilation to the console close to the back of the drivers seat.
Lastly there are four torx bit screws holding the metal bracket and the console together. Unscrew those and then push the back of the console towards the front a bit so it unhooks from the metal bracket.
Now you can lift the whole thing off. You are going to need to play with it a bit to make it work. I passed the ebrake boot through the slot and pulled the ebrake as far back as I could so it would be almost a straight upward lift.
Now if you are going to switch the pins, you don't have to take anything else apart. Just pull the harness apart and start swapping pins. You want to take the yellow pin 4 and switch it with the blue pin 9. Then switch the red pin 5 with the black pin 0. Reassemble everything and test drive.
If you are going to change the wiring you will want the shifter top out of the way. The bottom of the shifter knob pulls straight down and reveals two Philips screws. Once the screws are removed, squeeze the trigger and lift up on the knob.
To remove the top plate, there are four spots below it where white clips need to be squeezed with a set of needle nose pliers and the entire piece comes up. You will have to remove the bulbs from the side of the unit in order to get enough clearance over the shifter. They come out by twisting them counter clockwise.
Now you can see the two switches and if you want to see how they work, just use the shifter like normal and move it to the different locations. Pretty simple stuff, but it may give a better idea of how the shifter on these cars works.
OK so this is where your skills and available pieces of electronic stuff comes into play. I had the quick disconnects handy, so thats what I was planning on using. I screwed up my wire cutting so had to change the pins. I will walk you through not screwing up so you don't make the same mistake I did.
Trace the blue/black and yellow/red wire pairs from the harness about 2-3i inches and then cut BOTH pairs at the same location. I recommend using the quick disconnect in case you don't like it and want to switch back. Crimp the male ends to the switch side of the wires and the female to the harness side. You have to be consistent with this or you'll have to redo them. If you need more room to work, the switches are clipped in on both sides and can be removed pretty quickly and easily. I pulled mine out, but its not needed.
Now you have the length needed on both sets of wires. My picture doesnt! You can plug the back switch into the front harness wires and visa versa. Plug the yellow into the blue and red into the black. Wrap the quick disconnects in electrical tape so they don't short to each other. Now you're done, so reassemble everything and get her on the road!
I looked at the bottom of the top plate assy that you pulled off. I was going to change the "+" and "-" but it looks like the black piece is riveted to the white part. I stopped and didnt bother with it at that point. It may come up later that I want it changed, but not right now.
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