Squeaky Brakes

Seems to not squeak when I first drive it in the morning but after about 5 miles they start squeaking. Any other ideas?
 
Also with the tire in the air and the car on a jack, I do not have any play when pressing on the top or bottom of the tire as mentioned above. I do fell a slight drag when I spin the tire though.
 
Just my opinion, swap to ceramics and have the rotors turned very very slightly. Clean them very good with some CRC brake cleaner before the ceramic pad install and after the install. Just my suggestion.
 
Is it only on one side? If so swap sides with the rotor, pads and caliper see if the squeal swap's sides also! If it does it's one of those three, if not then you ruled out those three.....just a thought tho.
 
Spree said:
Is it only on one side? If so swap sides with the rotor, pads and caliper see if the squeal swap's sides also! If it does it's one of those three, if not then you ruled out those three.....just a thought tho.
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You can not swap calipers side to side. They are side specific and the bleeder valve needs to be on top as bubbles don't sink
 
You can swap the calipers but there is a stop on them for the brake hose that has to be ground done but regardless I already bought and installed a new caliper and the problem persists. :(
 
Grind down what???

If you flip flop the calipers, the bleeder valves will then be on the bottoms of the calipers ...when you open the hydraulic system, you let air in. The air then must be bled out...air floats...float means goes UP...so unless you've trained air to sink...you'll never bleed the Brakes .

Sure fluid would come out, but the air will remain trapped in the top of the chamber ...there ARE a few select cars that have dual bleeder calipers, however the Mark isn't one of them
 
Sapperfire said:
Grind down what???

If you flip flop the calipers, the bleeder valves will then be on the bottoms of the calipers ...when you open the hydraulic system, you let air in. The air then must be bled out...air floats...float means goes UP...so unless you've trained air to sink...you'll never bleed the Brakes .

Sure fluid would come out, but the air will remain trapped in the top of the chamber ...there ARE a few select cars that have dual bleeder calipers, however the Mark isn't one of them
Click to expand...

I hear what your saying. No reason to even do it and I shouldn't have commented that it can be done. I do appericate all your input on my issue. Bleeder would be lower than if it were on the correct side. However, I've bled with a vacuum pump or reverse bled through the master cylinder on a few off road projects (I'm not sure if you can do this on ABS equipped vehicles) I've done this with success on other projects but it is a pain. Maybe the brakes weren't 100% on those projects but they sure felt like it. However, it doesn't matter as I bought a new caliper.


On grinding if you look at your cailper where the hose mounts there is a tab. If you have your hose off there is one side on the end of it that is thicker than the other. The thinner side mounts by the tab. The tabs acts like a stop so that the hose end doesn't try to twist when you tightening up the hose bolt. Its hard to explain and picture would explain it better. No reason to do this either. The thought just crossed my mind one day. I thought about switching calipers to see if the problem persisted like someone mentioned earlier but a new caliper wasn't too expensive. I have a new caliper but no luck with the squeaking. I know you don't care but you asked "grind down what" so I answered. :)
 
turn_on68 said:
Go to Rock Auto and look at this new product.

Raybestos Drag Reduction Clips
Click to expand...

I guess I'll try this and some ceramics.

Guys I really do appericate everyones help. I know it sucks that I don't have pics and I'm sorry for that.
 
drag reduction clip pretty much eliminated the squeak. I'll continue to monitor and post if the issue comes back. The local auto store didn't have ceramics in stock so I still have semi metallic pads. Wish I'd bought the $7 clips before spending close to $100 for a new caliper, rotor, and pads or at least got ceramics the first time. Oh well it's only money.
 
When deciding the price of Brakes consider this... if your Brakes were to fail, and you crash, burn and die...would you want someone to spend that same ammount to bring you and your car back to life?

One day when you least expect it, those brakes could be worth every penny spent
 
I was going to get them to but when I went to buy them Rock Auto didn't have them. I also couldn't see how they would fit in the tiny opening on the top of our calipers.
 
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