Spring Break 2010..Kooks header install

C

cobra mk8

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Well i'm going for it, I'm going to put in the kooks in my 93. I know the basic idea to this. Has any write up been done for this? Any tips or tricks..pics? This kinda seems like quite the task.
 
Good luck! The Ford master tech that installed my kooks said it was a bitch of a job. The exhaust shop I use, had a customer tow his Mark from South Carolina to Atlanta to have a new mandrel bent SS exhaust, and kooks installed. The exhaust shop looked at it, and said no way - too much involved, and sent the guy over to the Ford master tech to install the kooks.
 
I think that it will make a world of difference if you have access to a car lift vs laying on your back. When mine were installed the front cross member was left in place, and the engine was lowered in from the top and the headers installed on the heads prior to actually bolting the engine to its mounts (rocked back and forth). The mechanics that worked on the car were skilled, well equipped with the latest in ratcheting wrenches, very long arms, and they were size of a 5th grader.
 
I have heard of people dropping the crossmember and supporting the motor from the top for kooks install. That sounds like the easiest way to do it to me.
 
what are the actual gains from adding headers to a mostly stock mark8?? i would imagine somewhere around 10 hp? is it really worth the money?
 
k9t8m said:
I have heard of people dropping the crossmember and supporting the motor from the top for kooks install. That sounds like the easiest way to do it to me.
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Definitely the easiest way. Support the engine from above (OTC 4324), remove the bolts holding the PS lines to the K-Member (nothing needs to be disconnected), and remove the 8 bolts holding the K-Member.

I did mine while I was also rebuilding the front suspension. If yours is still together, you'll also need to remove the upper shock mount nuts and the UCA to spindle bolts. Keep an eye on the brake caliper hoses and ABS wiring when lowering the K-Member, you'll probably have to loosen the bracket that holds them to the frame to get enough slack.

Even so, there's still not much room to work. :(

Take a good look at everything else while you're there; motor mounts, oil pan gasket; so you don't have to do it again. ;)

I did both of those, and a little more, when I had my K-Member down. :)

And don't be suprised if you also end up needing to change the steering rag joint for clearance.

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k9t8m said:
Damn that car is clean!
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You have no idea man..

I got to meet doug and check out his garage last week and take a ride in his 98...ALL of his cars are SUPER CLEAN, his garage is SUPER CLEAN, his work, parts, machines, everything...gorgeous, pictures do them no justice. :eek:
 
lincolnboy said:
What the pt #for the linkage
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There are multiple p/n's, and some machining involved.

I sell complete bolt-on kits HERE.

My web page also has the p/n's if you want to do it yourself, but you'll have to buy at least 18" of the DD bar, as that's the smallest length that FR sells.
 
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