speakers and amp help

M

mcafferty

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I need help with speaker replacment and amp replacement. Are there two amps in the car? Can you replace small speakers in center council? how do you get the covers off? how do you wire in an amp to replace the factory amp that runs the 5x7 subs if you can call them that. Any help would be great. thanks much a new ls owner. love the car!!! :Beer
 
yes there are 2 amps one for the front and one for the rear subs. you can remove the 3.5 console speakers but not recommended there for the rds feature and are made to make a bunch of noise. the wiring im not sure. welcome to lvc
 
One amp is built into the HU the other is located in the trunk..
I replaced my console speakers with tweeters which didn't really make a difference just need to make sure to use a crossover. on the console speakers the covers will pop off. Running any more power to your rear deck speakers is not a good idea, they can't handle it and will bottom out extremely easily.
 
sub and amp

I replaced my 4 door speakers and they sound better. I still want to put in a sub and amp to replace factory POS. I took out factory amp subs if you can call them that and tried to hook up an amp and sub through the factory radio. I tried to splice into the factory wiring and am having no luck. I think on the factory wiring harness
red= power
Black = ground
gray/red = neg
white/red = pos
yellow/red= amp remote

is this correct?

I wired the amp power and ground directily to the battery and used the hi inputs into the amp instead of RCA. The hi input on the amp has for both left and righ should i hook them both to the one wire in the harrness? Sould the yellow/red (amp remote) have power when the readio is on? Mine does not. The factory subs worked but not i can not get my wiring to work. Please help. Thanks for everything...Mac
 
Stereo Wiring:



According to the FOMOCO wiring diagram for 2000-2002, the factory harness connectors are wired as follows:

The large 20-pin connector:
Position 5 and 6 = right rear (- white and + gray)
Position 12 and 13 = left rear (- whit/violet and + gray/white)
Position 7 and 8 = right front (- white/red and + gray/red)
Position 14 and 15 = left front (- white/black and + gray/black)

Constant power = position 9 (orange.black)
Switched hot in start = position 3 (gray/orange)
Switched hot in run or ACC = position 10 (yellow/green)
Ground = position 16 (black/green)

The 16-pin connector contains the connections to the steering wheel controls and various data bus signals. The cassette systems with external CD changer have a connector dedicated to the signal cable for the changer.

On audiophile systems, there is an 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)



The trunk connector (on the drivers side) is number C465 and the sub audio uses these pins:
1 = yellow/red: switched hot
3 = shield for low level audio signal
5 = red: constant power from battery junction box fuse F418 (20 amps)
7 = white/red: low level LEFT audio signal

8 = grey/red: low level RIGHT audio signal

 
wire prob

so does that mean that i should have a rmote wire to activate the amp? I am tring to wire it off the harness on the drivers side of the trunk? thanks quick ls for your help once again. what the hell do you do? are you the eng. for the ls? thanks, Mac


The switched hot is that the remote? I should have power to that when the car is on, right? what do the positions mean?

do i have to use all the wires in the harness to get it to work? like the power and ground or can i use a direct connect to battery? thanks
 
1) right - most amps have a 12v power connector and a seperate 'on' lead
so you can:
- wire the 12v power connect to pin5
- wire the 'on' lead to pin 1 is the 'switched' hot

most of the time you would not wire the 12v to pin5 - since it is only a 20amp fuse, and run a seperate fused connector to the 12v+ on the battery - which is simple since the battery is in the trunk.

2) 'switch hot' means you have power on controlled like the head unit - so you amp will stay on with the car off but the door handle hasn't been pulled yet.

3) in most applications the new amp you are installing will require more power than the stock amp - so you don't use the stock ground / power points because you'll blow their fuses.

- - nah don't work for Lincoln - just had my car apart - alot ....
 
you can run the remote wire directly to the battery but make sure you throw a switch in otherwise you'll have a dead battery...
 
installing the amp..

1.Run your power wire directly to the battery then work it through a gromet in the fire wall, under the carpet, to your trunk.oh wait the battery is in the trunk..Make sure you have a fuse about 6 in" from the battery.
2.Run a remote wire either off a fuse, or a power wire in the back of your radio.
3. Drill hole for ground, ground wire shoudl be no longer then a ft.
now for the rcas

THe easiest way for rcas is to get a line out converter,because your stock head unit doesnt have the rcas in the back of the radio you can pick it up at best buy for 14.99 or even meijers..
Get the one without the ground wire, otherwise your going to need a ground loop converter..
Splice them directly into your rear 6x9 speakers, directly in the trunk, the wires are color cordinated, so the install will be easy....

any questions feel free to contact me, i've been installin for a few yrs now, I do custom installs as well... Custom enclosures, I also do fiberglass installs.
 
I dont want to have to turn on an off the amp manually. I would like it to work like it is ment to. not sure if i am smart enought to do this. what are the pins is that the harness? So i dont have a remote wire then is what you are saying or is the red my remote? When i tested it seemed to be hot all the time. what is that about the door handle? help please my head hurts... I understand if you guys are sick of helping me but thanks much...Mac

Motts your not from MN are you or maybe your planning a trip here?
 
I didnt not read the entire post, but the remote turn on leads are usually Blue, run that wire back to the amp...
 
pin 1 - is the switched hot - yellow/red

it turns hot when the radio is allowed to play

usually this goes to the remote on, or 'switched' on the amp
 
the red wire is the hott wire, it turns on when the car turn on.. off when the car turns off.. you can splice the remote wire directly into that.. and when your car turns off your amp will go off....

heres a pm i sent to itsnot yourdaddy..

step 1. Run your ground wire, drill a hole anywhere on the frame make sure you scratch the paint off pretty good so you have a good connection. Then connect it to your amp.

step 2. Run your Power wire from the + on the battery, then connect it to your + or pos on the amp.
throw a fuse in there, can buy it at a car audio store..4.99 ...

step 3. Your going to need to buy a line out converter, due to the fact that the factory head unit does NOT have rca outputs... buy one at a local car audio store, or best buy/circuit city, about 14.99 or so..

step 4. Your going to have 4 wires on the line out converter ignore the black wire (ground) if there is one, its useless.. Typically a solid wire and a wire with a strip.. two of each.. your going to splice these into your back factory speakers... right where they connect to the speaker... make sure you dont cut them too short or you'll be outa luck.... run the wires... then your going to need about 4-6ft of rca wires.. buy some descent ones.. rockford.. it'll be worth it in the long run... you'll have less motor noise through your speakers.. a good set will cost about 14.99 or so... anyways run them from the rcas to your amp.....

step 5.. Go buy a box.. dont build one.. can cost you anywhere from 19.99 -250.00 make sure it has ports in it.. check on a web site to see what type of box they recommend for your speakers. how many cubic ft.. probably 3cb ft or so..lookin at 50 bucks or so..

step 6.. COnnect the speakers... I dont know what type of speakers you have 2 ohm.. dual 4 ohm.. let me know and i can help you out.. if not there shoudl be some sort of diagram on the xtant web site.. or even call a car audio store and they'll tell you.. you can leave that factory plastic piece in there.. leave that factory enclosure alone... unless you wana remove it.. i left mine in there.....

step 7. sorry forgot a step... remote wire.. you can run this to the power wire in teh back of the radio...
just cut peel the plastic off and splice them..

hope this helps.. oh yea heeres a list of things you'll need
wire connecters
fuse holder/fuses
6ft 4guage power wire
2-4ft of ground wire
8-10ft of rcas
electric tape
20 ft 18 guage or smaller doesnt matter of wire for the remote.. wire
line out converter
box for speakers
speaker wire....
neex anything else let me know!
 
Thanks for all the help. I have a question on your step 3: do i leave in the factory amp and use the 4 speaker wires coming out of the amp? or do i us the 2 speaker wires going into the amp? will the red wire turn off when the radio is off? i thought that was a power and not the remote wire? thanks
 
mcafferty said:
Thanks for all the help. I have a question on your step 3: do i leave in the factory amp and use the 4 speaker wires coming out of the amp? or do i us the 2 speaker wires going into the amp? will the red wire turn off when the radio is off? i thought that was a power and not the remote wire? thanks
Click to expand...

leave the factory amp alone.... it'll create a mess if you try to bypass it... your going to splice the line out converter into the rear deck speakers.. when you see the line out converter you'll know what i'm talkin about...

its looks liek a box with 4 wires coming out 2 neg and 2 pos..somestimes a ground... your going to take 1 neg and 1 pos, cut the wires that go into your rear speakers, take some wire connecters and connect them.. neg to neg pos to pos and then stick the wires you cut into the other side of the wire connecter.. neg to neg. pos to pos..then you'll plug the rcas into the line out converter.. run the rcas to your amp and plug them in. i believe the remote wire is actualyl blue on the back of the head unit.. i correct myself... i'll check when i get home..
 
line out converter.............>

SNI-35.jpg
 
so i then have to run a wire up to the head unit to get a remote to run the amp? Thanks motts for all the help. I already f....ed up. I will need to splice the harness back together. i cut it off before the amp in hope that i could run it off the hi input of amp.
 
mcafferty said:
so i then have to run a wire up to the head unit to get a remote to run the amp? Thanks motts for all the help. I already f....ed up. I will need to splice the harness back together. i cut it off before the amp in hope that i could run it off the hi input of amp.
Click to expand...

non onononono.. you'll end up blowin your rear deck speakers..... cut it about 3 inches if you can from the rear speakers.. climb in your trunk lay on your back and look up at the speakers...... yes you have to run the remote wire to teh head unit..(stock head unit, i'm assuming) what the remote wire does is turns on and off the amp.. when your car goes on and off..... what type of amp are you installing? how many channels....

I'll let everyone know thats readin this post.. that you only need the line out converter if you have a factory head unit.. if you install an after market head unit. you will not need this.. most aftermarket head unit have both rca input/outputs in the back of the radio....
I would highly recommend getting an aftermarked head unit.. a good starter is a pioneer deh6400.. abour 230-250 bucks.. an even better one is the deh 7400 great models.... both have built in equilizers.. you would be amazed at the difference in sound.. it'll make your stock speakers sound so much better!!!!!!!!!
if you need anything else let me know..
 
sh@t I guess i should leave this to the pros. Why is there not a remote for the stock amp in the trunk that I could splice into? I would be so much easier. I guess thats ford for you. I should plan on putting the wiring back together and reataching the amp and adding the converter. I am not sure if i want to tackle taking out the radio and finding the remote wire. I may take that in. not sure on the amp i am going to use i was just trying to insatll one that i had on hand to get it to work.
 
Question???

I read in a post that you get in the trunk look up @ the speakers,,,, I dont see any speakers, I have what looks like a composite Speaker Box with the factory amp bolted onto it....

Are all ls's (Alpine logo on deck) equiped with this type of box?



Thx
 
Sacredfire said:
Question???

I read in a post that you get in the trunk look up @ the speakers,,,, I dont see any speakers, I have what looks like a composite Speaker Box with the factory amp bolted onto it....

Are all ls's (Alpine logo on deck) equiped with this type of box?

Thx
Click to expand...

the speakers are mounted in the topside of that box.

No - only LSes with the Autophile option had the 12 speaker system.
 
What is the ideal brand for replacing factory 6 X 8 speakers in my LS? I don't plan on really messing around too much with the audio but one of my speakers doesn't put out nearly as much sound as the other 3 so I figured now would be a good time to upgrade. Any suggestions on what I should get or why one speaker doesn't put out as much sound as the others? Thanks
 
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