Spark Plug Repair Problem

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RUMBLE BEE 1546

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My 98 about 3 weeks ago had the spark plug blow out and after figuring out what the issue was I decided to get the Time Sert kit to fix it.

For step one I am drilling out the hole with the counter boar and the its going for a while and suddenly gets very difficult to turn. I try to pull it out to check progress and it wont come out. I grabbed pliers to pull it and the freakin wrench (provided with the kit) came off the counter boar. Now I have a counter boar stuck in the head and cant get it out.

I have tried:
-Slipping the wrench over it again to turn it backwards to loosen it but it only goes so far then stops.
-Putting WD-40 down the hole and letting it sit to try and loosen it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really don't want to have to pull the head off to fix it :frown:

I don't understand why it got so difficult suddenly?
 
The piston is NOT at TDC correct? You should include pictures of all said tools your using.
 
TDC?

There is a picture on the link below. It is the tool on the top right. It is a 2 piece tool that is held by a set screw and that apparently came loose putting me in my current position.
 
The piston is up at the top (about 1"from the hole).

My dad is the one who bought the kit and read the instructions. I was the "helper" and now reading through the instructions it should be down along with the valves closed.

I am very much hoping the pistons not f***ed.
 
If the piston is at the top of its stroke and that bit is against it, and you turned it more, it would bite the threads of the head and become locked. .. send pics of the bit head you're using
 
TDC =s Top Dead Center. Meaning piston is at total top of its stroke. Like you just read in instruction piston should be at BDC bottom dead center.
 
I've used this kit multiple times on multiple cars. Always... Always... BDC.


You can try rotating the crankshaft and ultimately the piston down and away from the cutter.
 
If you've damaged the head thou, don't even bother pulling it off the block.. getting another motor would be faster and cheaper
 
Was thinking of trying to move the piston down. I used the key to get it where it's at now.

If I turn it down manually how will I be able to tell if the valves are closed or is it just a wing it situation?

Another concern I had was the metal shavings in the cylinder.
 
RUMBLE BEE 1546 said:
Was thinking of trying to move the piston down. I used the key to get it where it's at now.

If I turn it down manually how will I be able to tell if the valves are closed or is it just a wing it situation?

Another concern I had was the metal shavings in the cylinder.
Click to expand...
You can vacuum out the cyl. Attach a smaller pipe to your shop vac. I use 3/8 copper tubing. You can give it slight bend to get all over piston. Plus its only alum.
 
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