Shocks/springs?

[04_Sport_LS]

I know those inexpensive KYB shocks work well as I have a 27 year history using them on my other cars.

LOL... the LS is not "other cars"... and neither is a Jaguar. The LS is also not a Town Car, Continental, or Mk series. The LS is the sister car to the Jag S-Type...

Plus the fact remains that the majority of aftermarket parts do not hold up as well as factory parts. There IS a reason factory parts are more expensive... and it goes beyond any dealer markup.

People on here asked about restoring to the "factory" ride. Most of those parts are obsolete. I offered the next best solution.

My 2-3 year comment stands... because if you keep your LS long enough... that's how often you'll be replacing the KYB's.

They used to make an upgraded version... but those have long been discontinued. Same for Koni and a couple other aftermarket manufacturers.

You see, I find absolutely no sense in spending thousands for a collection of Jaguar, Bilstein and overpriced OEM suspension components.

We'll see how far that mentality gets you with the cooling system.

I don't know how long you plan on keeping your LS... but mine has 227k on it... and I'd like to see it make it to 300... regardless of what the insurance company thinks.

Most long time members on here have learned that the cheap parts don't hold up.

 

[AmsterDutch]

I agree ...it's a personal choice what a person wants to spend ... I know when I find a ridiculously low price on a aftermarket auto part that it could be junk or I got a great deal that meets or exceeds the OEM part ...I have been burned before but I also have been truly impressed....life is a gamble ...I mean I've had OEM parts let me down also ...China is ever present in so many aspects of manufacturing

 

[Robert Crain]

Well I certainly don’t have a problem with anyone using OEM parts and I think in certain situations, they are clearly the best choice. Someone here on this forum once said that any part attached to the engine block should only be replaced with an OEM part. I couldn’t agree more. With Suspension parts, I think the aftermarket offers some good alternatives. My LS is not a hobby car as I have a 1969 Firebird that fulfills that role. My LS is used just to get me to work and back. I keep the Firebird for summer cruise nights.

 

[Tommy B]

This might be a stupid question, but the torque spec for the top shock locknut is 37 ft lbs. How does one torque the nut without the shaft spinning? I assume the torque has to be applied while the spring is compressed out of the car, yes? I grabbed the tit on the end of the shaft with a vise grip and used a wrench to tighten the nut as much as i could but I'm pretty sure I'm nowhere near 37 ft. lbs. Any advice much appreciated!

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Well hopefully you didn't round over the top of the shock stud.

The stud SHOULD have 2 flats on it. There are special sockets that will work... but I just used a large crescent wrench... and tightened the jaws as much as I could.

Then you would use a long wrench of appropriate size... and tighten the nut. If you are actually using a torque wrench... you would use an appropriate sized crows foot wrench.

 

[Tommy B]

Well hopefully you didn't round over the top of the shock stud.

The stud SHOULD have 2 flats on it. There are special sockets that will work... but I just used a large crescent wrench... and tightened the jaws as much as I could.

Then you would use a long wrench of appropriate size... and tighten the nut. If you are actually using a torque wrench... you would use an appropriate sized crows foot wrench.

Thank for the reply. Let me ask you this- it's a nylon locknut, which should help hold in place. How critical is it to get the thing torqued at least close to spec? The nut seems to be tight on there.

 

[joegr]

Personally, I don't think that one is super critical. That give a spec for it because they have to, but I think there is a reasonable range between tight enough and too tight.
If you are worried, take a sharpie and mark down the stud, nut and metal. Check it in a month to see if the marks are still lined up.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

If you are reusing the nyloc nut... keep in mind that the nylon part is already shaped to the threads.

This means it has less "locking" strength than the first time it was installed. Because if this... I would put some blue or orange Loc-Tite on the threads of the shock before tightening the nut.

 

[Tommy B]

Thanks to all for the replies.

Personally, I don't think that one is super critical. That give a spec for it because they have to, but I think there is a reasonable range between tight enough and too tight.
If you are worried, take a sharpie and mark down the stud, nut and metal. Check it in a month to see if the marks are still lined up.

Good idea, will do that. Thanks!

 

[Tommy B]

Got the new shocks and springs in, car's back to its normal ride height and seems to handle quite well. The right side took about half a day, the left about half an hour once I knew how to do it. Pretty simple, actually. While under there I observed that the toe links are completely rusted and the ends at the knuckles are shot (but holding!), so they need to be replaced as well. That means an alignment after, yes? Also, there's a bit of a creak coming from the lower control arm bushing at the wheel knuckle, which disappeared following a silicone spray bath and overnight sit, but those bushings all look pretty worn out and have to be replaced as well. Question- is it a big deal to push out and replace the bushings in the existing LCA, or better to simply install a new LCA with bushings already in there? I have a 12 ton press but have heard about bad things happening when installing new bushings, and I'd have to find an appropriate cup to fit inside the bore. But would rather spend $100 or so on bushings than $500 for new LCAs.

 

[AmsterDutch]

Got the new shocks and springs in, car's back to its normal ride height and seems to handle quite well. The right side took about half a day, the left about half an hour once I knew how to do it. Pretty simple, actually. While under there I observed that the toe links are completely rusted and the ends at the knuckles are shot (but holding!), so they need to be replaced as well. That means an alignment after, yes? Also, there's a bit of a creak coming from the lower control arm bushing at the wheel knuckle, which disappeared following a silicone spray bath and overnight sit, but those bushings all look pretty worn out and have to be replaced as well. Question- is it a big deal to push out and replace the bushings in the existing LCA, or better to simply install a new LCA with bushings already in there? I have a 12 ton press but have heard about bad things happening when installing new bushings, and I'd have to find an appropriate cup to fit inside the bore. But would rather spend $100 or so on bushings than $500 for new LCAs.

Its Owners choice...I know of ppl using different Bushings and others replacing the whole arm ...there are some threads about this ...you can always use Google search ...Lincoln LS Bushings ...good ti hear you got those shocks replaced

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Question- is it a big deal to push out and replace the bushings in the existing LCA, or better to simply install a new LCA with bushings already in there?

Not all of the factory busings are available for replacement purchase... and removing the old bushings and installing new ones can be time consuming... with aftermarket urethane being your only option for some of the bushings. It is recommended not to mix and match rubber and urethane on suspension components... because the rubber will wear out faster.

Urethane comes with it's own caveats. Some like it and some don't.

Powerflex Bushings - Lincoln LS Control Arms

Powerflex Polyurethane Bushing Install

Keep in mind also... that the upper arms, (both front and rear), have a ball joint type stud that is in no way serviceable.

It is also a best practice to replace arms in pairs... as a set... and all on one end of the vehicle at the same time. Otherwise the still worn out parts will cause premature wear on the new parts.

 

[Tommy B]

Thanks for the reply. Going to go ahead and replace pretty much the entire rear suspension. Shocks and springs already done, new OEM springs and cheap aftermarket shocks, car's handling great so far. I know I'm rolling the dice on the shocks but what the hey, I needed them and if they don't hold up it's pretty easy to remove and replace the assembly. Ordered OEM LCAs and aftermarket toe links a little while ago, went ahead and ordered OEM uppers on the best practices recommendation, makes sense, and how much life can be left in the existing anyway. Will install when it gets a little warmer. We'll see about the front end when the time comes but no issues there so far. Thanks again.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

and aftermarket toe links

I would caution against aftermarket toe links. They don't hold up near as well as OEM.

There is one manufacturer that makes "non-passive" toe links that seem to be durable. They are the Lemforder... which are OEM on the Jag S-type.