SCT Pro Racer/Cold start issues/what to change...

XLRVIII said:
in the hands of an experienced person an LC-1 might be ok.

I wouldn't suggest one to a person though..

and I also agree most of the common lc1 issue are self inflicted ground loops ect.

for a first timer, especially one that might as "ME" for help, I'd only suggest to buy a good one, PLX or one of the others that cost 3-5 times as much as the lc1.

once a person becomes familiar with it, using a bottom of the line cheapo WB could be done, because then they would already know when they were getting good information or some goofy side effect/bad data.

it's hard enough to get a handle on all of this without also battling with THE DEVICE as well, and also trying to determine if your getting good or bad data.

I could probably get by with an LC-1 but they are not on my list of suggested items for public use IMHO
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I agree on the fact that its not the most beginer friendly to install. After talking to others with other units the lc 1 is alittle more complicated to set up. Alot of wires to run.
 
unity said:
Ya, $$$ for that WB. But yes, you convinced me to go Pro Racer and it was the best thing you told me to do. So I know you are right about the WB.
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NKG AFX... do eeeeeet!!!

It is rumored to be made by the same company that make the AFR1000 which is a very spendy unit... I have never heard a bad thing about the NKG unit...
 
a + for the LC1 is "some of them many warrrs" plug right into the xcal 2 and display the wb02 data right in your datalog
 
so what kind of scary af are you seeing when your car enters into "coasting fuel shut off"?
^probably 20 or more seconds of closed throttle decel to engage this function.
 
The ar will go crazy lean when not even all the way off the gas but coasting. Running down the highway it goes little rich to little lean as it should at little throttle.
 
I tested the air charge temp sensor thing with a meter and its good. this does not rule out a harness issue though. But this LiveLink software I have not played with as much as I should. If you were wanting to isolate a cold start (as in fricken freezing outside) issue, what sensors would you look to log?

AIR CHARGE
AIR TEMP
MAF COUNTS
TPS POSITION
RPM

But what when it comes to injectors? I want to see what they are dumping in.

The mark VIII has been sitting since it wont start. I finally have some time to play with it. It actually started today for the first time in weeks. Now I need to figure out why its not starting for sure.

So yes, I still have the issue and still need to figure it out since the air charge sensor may not be it.

Oh, I do have one small log record. Just forget about me uploading it, the network at work is all jacked up and the PC its on is isolated from everything else.
 
Without opening Livelink I'm fairly certain you can datalog Injector Pulswidth and Duty Cycle.

There is also cranking pulsewidth which might be the area you are having issues.

These are stock injectors? or are they Aviator/Jectors
 
They are "Mach 1" injectors. 4 port. Army green is the color of them. After looking them up, from what little info I found, they are the same # rating as stock but the newer more efficient version than what the Mark comes with. I forget the name they call the newer ones.
 
Have you checked the part in the tune that addresses Comp Vs Battery Voltage?
 
Where the heck is that? I honestly dont think I have seen that parameter. I will look. What is it for?
 
And this morning, after sitting for 14 hours overnight, it started as expected. Its almost 30 out.
 
unity said:
Where the heck is that? I honestly dont think I have seen that parameter. I will look. What is it for?
Click to expand...

on mine its the second selection down when you expand the "fuel injector" tree.

it's called injector_comp_battery_volt
Read the description and edit as shown in the description.

Doubtul it's the cause, but it cant hurt to get everything adjusted to how it's supposed to be.
 
Also checl "Crank_fuel"
and crank fuel pulsewidth
and ther eis also crank ISC duty cycle
crank fuel modifier for start

many places to make some adjustments..
Crank Fuel Pulsewith is based on ECT so it's got some numbers into the -20 below
you can see a big difference between -20 degrees 0 degree's and 20 degree...at 40 degree's it makes another large jump too...

Free your mind grasshopper
 
Thanks, I will play with the settings a little. It certainly is a crank issue, once it starts it idles perfectly. No need to hold the peddle down. So I think you are onto something.

All the values in crank fuel and fuel injector are 100% stock.

Thanks, I think you have me going in the right direction. Will let ya know. Going to be hard to tell if it works though since temps are going to stay in the 30s for a while.
 
Im looking into injector ratings again. Just tried starting the car, had to starve it to get anything to fire and then it took A LONG time to get it fired up. But it did so on its own power. No jump start or charge.

Anyway. I found this:

http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/page/page/5516057.htm

http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/page/page/4782443.htm

My injector part numbers are XR3E-C5B And for Bosch they are 0280155865

But I am still having a problem finding out the exact, not "forum knowledge", ratings. I find they could be 25 or whatever. I am sure 24# to 26# is not a huge deal. The upper end of what I can find is that they may be up to 27.2#.

I think I may play with the tune and try 27# settings.
 
I changed the injectors to a 27# rating in the appropriate areas. Of course no noticeable change.

But you got me thinking on this crank fuel thing. I am pretty sure its got to be it. I noticed, like you said, the temps are in step. 0, 20, 40, etc. I can say that below 20, or about, it rarely starts. It in fact seems to flood. But above 20 it seems to start okay. Once an attempt to start it while below 20 I have to have the peddle at WOT to "dry" out the engine, then with luck it will fire but only if I coax the injectors.

I am going to create two programs withe the only difference being the crank pulse width set to stock and one set to the same for 40 degrees. From there I will tweak it more.

Thanks Tommy.
 
So far adjusting just the crank injector pulse to a shorter duration seems to be working. Its been starting just fine if not a little longer than normal in higher temps. But it starts and thats what matters. I probably could increase the injector pulse a little more but I wont to try this for a while.
 
Side note, Unity, XLRVIII - what is wb02? I'm vaguely familiar with SCT, and not from a hands on perspective, but it seems to recieve alot of friendly feedback around the highly modified cobra community in Houston. I am leaning towards SCT when I finally get a penny to rebuild, and am curious as to this wb02.

It joins with your tuning software to help monitor? It's not to change parameters? This isn't included with SCT?
 
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