SCT Pro Racer/Cold start issues/what to change...

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unity

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Hi all,

I am having issue starting my car in these sub freezing temps. I had the issue a couple winters ago too, but that was due to the chip. Since I went SCT it been starting fine, except in really cold temp and when the engine it totally cold. It can sit for 6 hours and be ok, its overnight where it dies.

The battery looks fine and is about a year old.

I am pretty sure its the tune. I am going to put the transmission back to stock anyway since quick shifts on snow and ice are bad. But does anyone have any ideas of what I can change to get it to start better when its freezing cold out? By the way, the stock tune is NO good at all since I have a new intake, etc. Already tried that.
 
my car starts the same in 26 degree's as it does a 100 degrees
just verified this a week or so ago

There are a couple of temp related functions like MAF temp compensation which is all zero's in my catch code, so it's unused.

check your base_fuel_table and compare to your base_fuel_table_cold
 
That may be it. The cold base and cold enriched are totally stock.
 
No. I dont use 85 in the winter and have not used it for a month or more.
 
The new fuel tables, yours Tommy, seem to have helped a little. But this morning I had a long start issue again. I have to go WOT to kill the injectors. It almost did not start.

I think the crank position sensor may be at fault. But I did get a code. This code comes up during WOT or near - pretty much when I am stuck in the snow spinning at 130MPH. :D

P0113 AIR INTK TEMP CIR HI

That sensor is pretty new, but its a Duracrap. If I clear it I dont think it comes back unless I am really revving it for some reason.

How does this sensor play with starting? During cold start I would assume its vital or not used at all. Thoughts?
 
Right, cause with my totally non-stock engine Sniper crap will be SO much better! LOL

What I really need is a dyno-tune or better yet a wide-band thingy.

I just started it and it fired right up. I think that sensor may be the issue, just not sure.
 
Yeah you may need a wide band thingggy. The sniper did fine on my ALL STOCK mid 12's mark.:shifty: So I hear what your saying. Most likly its not the tune like your saying. Somtin else is acting up.
 
I blame it on the big ass intake. I think I am going to replace that sensor then start some data-logging with cold start-ups. I may also install an auxiliary protected 12 volt source for the computer.

I hate winter/cold temps.
 
unity, look at all the idle adders and spark and such that relate to act.

then look at the default value for a failed act sensor... its 100 degrees

then imagin how that would affect a cold start scenario..

your pcm think act is 100 degrees, and its really 20 degrees?

that simply cannot be ignored regardless of the age or manufacture of the sensor
 
Tommy, so you are saying the sensor is used for cold starts. I figured but was not sure, I know somethings are ignored under certain conditions. Such as O2 at WOT.

Im learning. I will replace it since the code has come up twice now for sure. I am guessing it may also explain my sudden economy drop. I will replace it but order an OEM one. I really do not have any luck with non-oem sensors...
 
what im saying is if that sensor IS failed it affects ALOT of things especially if you live in a very cold climate.

also flipping back and forth from e85 to gasoline can/will cause alot of issues with water contamination, but usually that is when you switch from gas TO e85 not the other way around...but it's still a bad idea.

pick a team and stick with it
 
there is no way you could possibly 'dial in' a car on e-85 without wb02,in a single summer season...it aint gonna happen

now your back to square 1, running gas.

all bets are off until you get proper instrumentation..
invest in wb02, you car will thank you
 
Ya, $$$ for that WB. But yes, you convinced me to go Pro Racer and it was the best thing you told me to do. So I know you are right about the WB.
 
yea it sucks, but it IS what is IS..

do youself a favor, dont shop by price for wb02

be prepared to match or double what you have spent on your tuning software and hardware, to get a good dependable wb02 solution.

the last thing you want is to try and trust and depend on a cheap wb02, that is going to be like hitting a moving target as the wb02 sensor ages.

since your in this for the long haul, pay more now, save yourself alot of headaches in the future

especially for a beginner in wb02, you are going to be leaning heavily on the data it provides for you, so it has to be a good dependable unit.

NOT an innovate LC-1
 
I had issues with mine but that was a bad ground issue. Now with that fixed it works well. Its also easy to free air calibrate with the LED and button.
 
in the hands of an experienced person an LC-1 might be ok.

I wouldn't suggest one to a person though..

and I also agree most of the common lc1 issue are self inflicted ground loops ect.

for a first timer, especially one that might as "ME" for help, I'd only suggest to buy a good one, PLX or one of the others that cost 3-5 times as much as the lc1.

once a person becomes familiar with it, using a bottom of the line cheapo WB could be done, because then they would already know when they were getting good information or some goofy side effect/bad data.

it's hard enough to get a handle on all of this without also battling with THE DEVICE as well, and also trying to determine if your getting good or bad data.

I could probably get by with an LC-1 but they are not on my list of suggested items for public use IMHO
 
htrdlincoln98 said:
I had issues with mine but that was a bad ground issue. Now with that fixed it works well. Its also easy to free air calibrate with the LED and button.
Click to expand...

where did you mount your sensor?
before or after the primary cat?

which side of the motor and how much of a PITA was it to get the bung in the topside of the pipe?
 
I cleaned out my cats and put the sensor in the rear driver side O2 bung. Rear O2 sensors are off in my tune anyways, no need to weld in a new bung.
 
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