This may be the dumbest thing I ever thought of and I will prolly get flamed but let me bounce something off of you guys.
We all know that our cars go through HUGE camber swings in the suspension travels range. This also causes toe changes which are even more drastic.
I never knew just how radical they were until talking the guy into letting me play with the car with the alignment sensors on the car.
I had the alignment optimized for a 2.0" drop which is how I like the cars stance best because in town its only 1.5" dropped. I am running -.7* negative camber and 0 toe in front and -1.1* camber in the back (forgot toe, sheets at home) when at 2" down. At 1.5" drop its .3* negative camber and .18 toe out up front and -.7* negative camber out back.
Now any negative camber wears the tires much faster. When I had -1.5 up front it killed the tires in 4000 miles.
The upside is the car handles great as it can still have a large contact patch as the car leans through a turn.
And since toe in helps to make a car turn in faster you want a little of it when switching through turns. And since toe out makes the car more stable in a straight line then you would want that when going straight, right?
So heres my idea. Instead of the car dropping at speed and raising when slow what if I wired it the other way around?.... assuming I could....
*ducks to miss a flying shoe*
Wait! Bear with me!
So now you are driving at a high rate of speed and the car raises itself and this causes several good things to happen. Camber on all four corners gets closer to 0* thus increasing tire contact patch and decreasing tire wear. It toes out slightly and the car tracks straight easier. The spring rates increase and the car is less likely to bottom out on dips.
Then you slow down for some corners. The car lowers itself and the adds some negative camber so that the car can lean into a corner and the tire still has a full contact patch. It also toes in some allowing a more responsive turn in and greater steering sensitivity. Only down side is the spring rate would decrease but I think with the large sway bars (larger then I currently have) would help make it behave as if it was still at the higher spring rate.
So what guys? Does this make any sense or am I just completely out there?
We all know that our cars go through HUGE camber swings in the suspension travels range. This also causes toe changes which are even more drastic.
I never knew just how radical they were until talking the guy into letting me play with the car with the alignment sensors on the car.
I had the alignment optimized for a 2.0" drop which is how I like the cars stance best because in town its only 1.5" dropped. I am running -.7* negative camber and 0 toe in front and -1.1* camber in the back (forgot toe, sheets at home) when at 2" down. At 1.5" drop its .3* negative camber and .18 toe out up front and -.7* negative camber out back.
Now any negative camber wears the tires much faster. When I had -1.5 up front it killed the tires in 4000 miles.
The upside is the car handles great as it can still have a large contact patch as the car leans through a turn. And since toe in helps to make a car turn in faster you want a little of it when switching through turns. And since toe out makes the car more stable in a straight line then you would want that when going straight, right?
So heres my idea. Instead of the car dropping at speed and raising when slow what if I wired it the other way around?.... assuming I could....
*ducks to miss a flying shoe*
Wait! Bear with me!
So now you are driving at a high rate of speed and the car raises itself and this causes several good things to happen. Camber on all four corners gets closer to 0* thus increasing tire contact patch and decreasing tire wear. It toes out slightly and the car tracks straight easier. The spring rates increase and the car is less likely to bottom out on dips.
Then you slow down for some corners. The car lowers itself and the adds some negative camber so that the car can lean into a corner and the tire still has a full contact patch. It also toes in some allowing a more responsive turn in and greater steering sensitivity. Only down side is the spring rate would decrease but I think with the large sway bars (larger then I currently have) would help make it behave as if it was still at the higher spring rate.
So what guys? Does this make any sense or am I just completely out there?
