Replacing Rotors

tyler1313

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i have already seen the post on how to change the brake pads but i have a couple of questions. First when you take the rear calipers off why is it that you have to screw out the piston. And when you do that do you screw it out so it is fully extended? Also before when you take the calipers off do you have to compress the piston? Finally is the compressed piston only for the rears, what about the fronts?
 
you have to compress the pistons on all four calipers - because they will be extended too far for your new thicker pads to fit in.

- on the fronts you simply 'squeeze' the piston back in
- on the rears you have to wind (screw) them back in, since the parking brake is part of the assembly.
 
Ok so the only reason why you have to compress the piston is so the newer thicker pads can fit in. Is there a place where you need to stop compressing the piston or just enough to slide it back on the new pads.
 
They make a special tool that attaches to a ratchet that makes it alot easier to do. Can be bought from just about any parts store for under 10 bucks. You put in on the ratcet, line up the holes on the piston with the pins on the tool and start turning/pushing until the piston is pushed back all the way into the caliper.
 
Ok that doesnt seem to hard. I probably should go pick up one of those tools though.
 
When i first take of the calipers will i need to losen up the piston. Ive heard the term bleeding the brakes, can anyone tell me about that.
 
if you do not introduce air into the system - them you will now need to bleed the brakes.

as an FYI - I flush my brake fluid (by bleeding) each spring. New fluid is almost clear in color - so if your's is brown / black - it's old and needs to be flushed.
 
rotors?

can i ask why you are changing the rotors? are you up grading to a better set? just wondering
 
Im getting new rotors because mine are old and are starting to rust. Im not sure which rotors im going to get but i would like so recommendations on some brake pads.
 
Do you guys know anything about these two Brake Pads

Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads

or

Raybestos Brake Pads: QuietStop Non-Ferrous Ceramic Pads

My buddy recommended Raybestos but i was wanting some other opinions.
 
Im getting new rotors because mine are old and are starting to rust. Im not sure which rotors im going to get but i would like so recommendations on some brake pads.
All steel rotors rust (unless you can find stainless steel rotors); that's the nature of ferrous metals, not a reason to replace them. If you just "want to," or if they're too thin (ie, they warp), those are acceptable reasons, but not rust--unless you have big ol' chunks coming off, threatening the structural integrity of the discs.

I don't know the Akebono pads, but I've had the Raybestos pads recommended by people whose judgment I trust. Personally, I think one of the EBC models will be the next pads I try; I've already had Porterfields and liked them, so I thought I'd try the EBCs, which also come highly recommended.
 
Brake rotors, rust... they're made of steel.
You can get them zinc plated and it will prevent rusting for a while, but once the zinc has corroded away and the steel is exposed it will start to rust as well.
If you're that worried about it, paint them. Its cheaper.
 
Well the other reason is I have 125,000 miles on it and my dad cant remember when the last time we had the rotors replaced or if we even did. And yes in the back they are starting to crack and chip off around the rim of the rotor.
 
Are they cracking on the rotor face, or is it just flaking off around the rim? The latter is normal, but the cracking on the face is definitely a reason to replace the rotors. Lots of vehicles (including several that I've driven) have gone more than 125,000 miles on the original rotors, so that's not necessarily a reason to replace them.

BTW, we're not beating on you for replacing the rotors; for all we know, the rotors do need to be replaced. It just sounds like you don't necessarily have a lot of experience with them, so we're trying to look out for you and make sure you're not fixing something that ain't broken. (We've all been there and done something that we wished someone had warned us about before we did it.)
 
Are they cracking on the rotor face, or is it just flaking off around the rim? The latter is normal, but the cracking on the face is definitely a reason to replace the rotors. Lots of vehicles (including several that I've driven) have gone more than 125,000 miles on the original rotors, so that's not necessarily a reason to replace them.

BTW, we're not beating on you for replacing the rotors; for all we know, the rotors do need to be replaced. It just sounds like you don't necessarily have a lot of experience with them, so we're trying to look out for you and make sure you're not fixing something that ain't broken. (We've all been there and done something that we wished someone had warned us about before we did it.)

No i understand. I dont know about your Ls's but the brakes have never been very good for me. Every other car i have drove the brakes where real sensitive. Maybe there is an adjuster but i dont think there is. Anyway im wanting to upgrade the whole brake system. My friends dad will install them though, i want to but my parents want someone who knows what they are doing to install them.
 
...BTW, we're not beating on you for replacing the rotors; for all we know, the rotors do need to be replaced. .. so we're trying to look out for you and make sure you're not fixing something that ain't broken. (We've all been there and done something that we wished someone had warned us about before we did it.)

No i understand. I dont know about your Ls's but the brakes have never been very good for me. ...


See, THIS is EXACTLY what I'm talkin about. This is what this place is all about. People giving constructive criticism, and/or opinions and the others not taken offense to it.

Sometimes, it's a voice "outside the box" that makes people think a different way to find solutions to the "problems" they THINK they have or really DON'T have.
 

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