Replacement clips?

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Phatt_daddy

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Does anyone know where I can buy replacement cop clips?that will fit the factory pins on a v6? I think that is why my new engine w new coils and plugs keeps giving me a misfire and causing the check engine light to start flashing.

Thanks Nate
 
There are lots of "clips" on the car. You need to be more specific about which ones you are talking about.
 
I'm just not getting it. The COPs aren't held in by clips. Are you talking about the connector? Could you take a picture?
 
I, too, am completely lost. My cops are held down by bolts. There are no 'clips' in evidence.

KS
 
I can't imagine the V6 would be any different, but the number for the V8 is 1F1Z-14489-AA sleeve.
 
LS4me said:
I can't imagine the V6 would be any different, but the number for the V8 is 1F1Z-14489-AA sleeve.
Click to expand...

Assuming that he is talking about the coil connector body, and not the cowl clips or something else.
 
If I was talking about the cowl clips I would have said so..... but no. I was specific on what I was talking about. The plastic clips that,over time, due to the heat in the engine bay become brittle and break. The clips that hold the cop writing and clips onto the coil to make the connection so the coil will fire. Being plastic they are prone to break on a14 yr old car. Hence also adding that may be the reason I have a misfire and causing my check engine light to flash. Not that hard to understand.

I'm not looking to cut solder and heat shrink. I'm liking to just replace the plastic.
 
Calling connectors "clips", is specifically wrong. In particular, you are looking for the connector bodies. You could have just said so.
 
Phatt_daddy said:
If I was talking about the cowl clips I would have said so..... but no. I was specific on what I was talking about. The plastic clips that,over time, due to the heat in the engine bay become brittle and break. The clips that hold the cop writing and clips onto the coil to make the connection so the coil will fire. Being plastic they are prone to break on a14 yr old car. Hence also adding that may be the reason I have a misfire and causing my check engine light to flash. Not that hard to understand.

I'm not looking to cut solder and heat shrink. I'm liking to just replace the plastic.
Click to expand...

See my response above. It will at least give you a starting point if the V6 and V8 connectors are different. I suspect they aren't...
 
Poor Phatty, not getting the love.

Feel for ya Bud, we can be a harsh bunch around here. Thank goodness you didn't call your COP's, coil packs as many do.






~ Welcome to LVC, Dynamic and Simoon.
 
Any local O'Reilly's/Checker/??? sells the clips/connectors you are looking for. They will either be Borg Warner or Standard Motor products brand. About $8 each. They come with about 4" of wire attached. Either butt connect or solder the wires together,,, and melt some heat shrink tubing over the connection to make waterproof. Just make sure you double check the orientation of the wires before connecting them... and make sure you slip the heat shrink tubing on the wires before doing the same. Make sure the heat shrink tubing is long enough to seal the repair joint.
 
Quote BR:

"Poor Phatty, not getting the love.

Feel for ya Bud, we can be a harsh bunch around here. "

Yeah... and that's a shame. I understand that people get tired of answering the same questions on this forum... and that sometimes a person doesn't use the correct terminology,,, but that is no reason for being harsh or overly corrective.

THERE BR... I aired another greivance!!! Happy again??? Yeah,,, I know... WRONG thread! :)

Phatty... hope I gave you the info you were looking for. I wuv you wong time. :) It's all good :) You'll learn on this forum not to take some people "to heart".
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Any local O'Reilly's/Checker/??? sells the clips/connectors you are looking for. They will either be Borg Warner or Standard Motor products brand. About $8 each. They come with about 4" of wire attached. Either butt connect or solder the wires together,,, and melt some heat shrink tubing over the connection to make waterproof. Just make sure you double check the orientation of the wires before connecting them... and make sure you slip the heat shrink tubing on the wires before doing the same. Make sure the heat shrink tubing is long enough to seal the repair joint.
Click to expand...

I think that he specifically said that he does not want to cut or solder wires. If he gets the correct connector bodies (aka sleeves), then he can remove his connector "pins" (actually, they are technically sockets) from his existing connector bodies and insert them into the new ones.

Anyone who doesn't mind soldering, then: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YRUPLG...TF8&colid=1O8V1F5VGF8TU&coliid=I1SG3PYKWLQZ2A
 
"Bend over, spread cheeks..." pricing for what are, in essence, fifty cent parts. I routinely break off the 'clip' on such connections and rely on the inherent friction to hold them together. I don't remember ever finding that one has magically separated itself. I suppose if I were working in the hostile environment of big-time road-racing I'd use a zip-tie to be sure of non-separation. zip-ties cost about a penny apiece.

KS
 
Yep. Admittedly, I have a zip-ties on a couple of mine. It's been a few years now, and no problems with those.
 
Almost all of my coil connectors are broken. There is ample area of the pins still making solid contact, that if you just press it all the way on, there should be no reason for them to slip off. That is... unless like cammerfe said, you are drag racing or off roading in your LS.
 
IMG_9066.jpg

IMG_9066.jpg
 
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