REPLACE YOUR COOLING SYSTEM - 2004 Fun and Easy Steps

[EsaEsLaElEs]

Coolant leak! Car is overheating! Degas bottle looks fine, What can it be? Where is my coolant going? Where is this problem?

"I don't want to go around replacing everything, much rather zero in on whats going on."

Well, you're probably screwed then. What is going on is that all of the not replaced plastic parts are failing. You can keep going the one at a time route, but they all degrade at about the same rate. Replace the main leaker, and the added pressure just moves the problem to the next weakest part. Do it all at once and enjoy the car

+1,000,000 this issue has been beat to death

I didn't plan this effort from the start but considering the countless pictures taken for my own reference . . . If only I would've looked closer at my own pictures during the hasty reassembly. As far as the order of doing this, there might be as many ways as there are owners (and mechanics) who do it; one way is to just start disconnecting and removing, which is why I took so many pictures; time-consuming but would've saved me some trouble if I bothered to look closer at those pictures in my race to reassemble. If there are wrong ways to the order of it I found most of them! I'll learn from it and return to this to remind myself for the next time (of what not to do!).

Most steps are re-organized from how it was done to a much, much more SENSIBLE way, as you'll notice by the pictures. For example: not yet having the wrench to remove the EGR module, I proceeded to remove the Crossover/Thermostat Assembly just for the sake of progress - this was a terrible mistake.

This may be more than a day or 2 job the first time but If done a 2nd time it would be much simpler and faster. Disassembly was during the 3 weeks of wait-wait-waiting for parts to arrive - 20 days!

Someone else can add their own comprehensive list of tools necessary, I'll mention a few along the way (I really wish I had the proper hose clamp tool).
RH will refer to passenger side, LH to driver side.

Start with this:

. . . and these (all parts arrived, I checked them off):

Several (not all) parts involved - with shortened "callout" numbers:

Coolant Flow diagram. The obvious difference I can see here from my 2004 is that the DCCV (2004) only has 3 hoses to it. My Coolant Auxiliary Pump has the hose coming out the top of it to the heater core hose, not to the DCCV.

1a. Remove the splash shield. There are 7 screws (including the back ones) (5mm or 7/32) and one plastic holding fastener.

1b. I also removed the Radiator Protect Shroud as well as the 2 side-piece splash shields. Probably not necessary.

1c. Engine appearance cover off.

1d. Radiator Sight shield off at the top, 4 plastic retainers/fasteners.

2. De-pressurize Fuel System
2a. In the trunk (by the battery) open the fuse box and remove the Fuel Pump Relay, number 007.

2b. Start the car and let it die. Wait a few moments and turn it over again shortly.

2c. Battery: now is a good time to disconnect negative on battery. Or If the car has been sitting long, both - and + and put a charger to it. 8 mm open-end wrench.

3. Coolant Draining:
Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding

3a. Open the Degas Bottle pressure cap. Have containers ready for coolant. Don't open the engine fill cap during the drain process, only Degas cap.
3b. At RH underside of radiator is the coolant draincock (19mm). There are 2 oil lines that get in the way of the draincock, push them aside or tie one or both aside. Loosen the Draincock with 19mm open-end wrench or socket with extension.
3C. NOTE the Shop Manual instructions: "disconnect the coolant return hose at the oil cooler". The oil cooler is what the oil filter is screwed onto. The 2 smaller hoses that drop from the Lower Radiator Hose go to that. This will be done in step 10 anyway so have the container(s) there for that. Also: "Close the radiator draincock when finished." Maybe after that step . . . or anytime before coolant fill!

4. Air Filter/Air Cleaner Pipe assembly - ENGINE AIR CLEANER OUTLET TUBE
4a. Remove one 11mm "retaining" nut at the RH side of assembly (passenger side).

4b. "Chassis Vacuum Hose" off Air cleaner asy. (btw, this vacuum hose is the one that goes to the back of the engine which will be the last step before the Manifold comes out).

4c. Crankcase Vent Tube removed at both ends. The double O-rings at each end make them a snug fit and difficult. I cracked one outer ring plastic but it didn't matter (as bad as that sounds).

4d. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor connector off (red slide up, tab under red slide pushed in, pull connector out).

4e. Not by the book, but I removed the upper air filter cover first (clamp loosened, of course). I sprayed soapy water around the boot fitting to push it away. The front of the filter cover needs to be tilted up and forward (toward headlight) to clear the lower 5 plastic holding protrusions(?) from lower half of the air filter/airbox called the tray.
I then removed the "Air cleaner Outlet", the largest piece of it, again using soapy water sprayed to free it up from the Throttle Body.

4f. One bolt holding the tray (lower half of air filter airbox), remove the filter tray.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

Next: windshield wipers, Cowl Panel Grille and Cross Vehicle Support.
As others suggest, spray some PB Blaster rust penetrant at the 7 bolts of the Cross Vehicle Support bar (2 on each side, 3 in the middle) - the middle 3 are accessible after step 7b.

5. Remove the windshield wipers. Rubber cover off each, then 13mm nut. Close the hood and fold the wipers upward to remove them. The lines on the windshield mark where they belong for reinstalling so don't worry about that.

6. On each side of the windshield and the Cowl Panel, One plastic pin-type (push-button) retainer each side. Push the pin inward a click and they will easily remove.

7a. Cowl Panel Grille: Do the same to remove these pin-type retainers.

7b. Remove the Cowel Panel: first pull the 3 wiper washer tubes from underneath. Notice how the Panel was inserted - the locating inserts - while removing it.

8. Cross Vehicle Support brace/bar: 7 rusted-in 13mm bolts to be removed. Note when removing the support that the middle of it goes under the windshield washer tubing.

9. UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
9a. Remove the Upper Radiator Support Bracket: Three 8mm screws.

9b. Upper hose, both ends off.
9c. Remove the smaller hose connected to the plastic T under the Upper Radiator Hose. This hose goes to the Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) aka dual climate control valve.
Note: this particular hose is not known to commonly fail, I ordered a new one anyway.

10. LOWER RADIATOR HOSE
10a. Lower end of hose removed from radiator (you might get at the clamp from underneath).
10b. Remove the Lower Radiator Hose bracket nut." 13mm
10c. Upper end of hose removed from coolant Crossover (the main thermostat housing plastic aka Coolant Bypass Housing).

10d. Two smaller hoses to Oil Cooler: the clamp ends for these are probably facing down. I used an 11" needle nose to grab at the single clamp tab end (at the right and underneath) and turned them (left and facing up). This opens up the clamp to be loose enough to turn it facing up (both of them). Once the clamps are facing upward, to make this easier carefully force the large hose slightly down out of the way (toward the ground with Crosssover end of the hose facing up) to get at these 2 oil cooler hoses.

At this point, there's no fixed order to removing and disconnecting things, although ENGINE DISASSEMBLY in the Workshop Manual contains an orderly way for SOME of the steps.
Notice the epoxy "fix" which got me about 50 miles. Search "epoxy radiator" in LVC to read of someones attempt at this.

if your "mechanic" recommended you use epoxy to fix the problem, you need a new mechanic.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

11. Coolant overflow/Vent Hose (the longest one you'll find) removed from Degas Bottle (and out, in the next step).

12a. Throttle Body Heater Hose off (short twisted one)(left arrow in diagram). By the pictures I did this before the previous step, but I first removed the Crossover (Coolant Bypass Housing) end of the TB Heater Hose to get at the Overflow/Vent hose (now out), then the other end of the TB hose. (I ordered a new one of these but this is said to not likely fail. Easy to get at if it does).

12b. Other TB Heater Hose underneath (the awful 9F814) can now be removed at the TB end of it. Hose pliers will be good to have for this. On the diagram it is the right arrow.

13. DCCV: If you can loosen the clamps to the 2 upper DCCV hoses with DCCV attached, do this first. I was able to remove one of the hoses then left the other to pull off when the DCCV was free from it's bracket mount location. The 3rd hose (bottom one) which was at the Upper Rad. Hose "T" can stay on the DCCV.
With this much done it went easily: 10mm screw removed, pull the DCCV away from its mounting point. NOW the electrical connector can easily be taken off (same type as the MAF: red slide up, tab under red slide pushed in, pull connector out).
With connector off and the one heater core hose already removed, the other heater core hose was easy since i could twist the DCCV slightly to break the hose loose and off.

14a. COOLANT AUXILIARY PUMP: Remove the upper end of the Crossover-to-pump hose from the low side of the Crossover (Coolant Bypass Housing). It's facing somewhat down, toward the radiator fan. Remove the coolant hose from the side of the Aux Pump and out.

14b. The pump is/was under the DCCV, there are two 10mm screws holding it in place. First, from under the car disconnect the electrical connector; the lower end of the connector needs to be pinched to release plastic "latches" from the upper end of it. You can use a needle nose or pliers if careful. I cracked mine, but it stays in place . . . so far.

14c. Two 10mm screws out, pull the pump away from where it is mounted.
14d. Remove the top hose (going to heater core) from the Aux Pump - actually remove the pump from the hose. It is now out.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

Following are steps going by the Workshop Manual ENGINE DISSASEMBLY (step #s are different of course).
15. "Disconnect the TP sensor electrical connector." (RH side of intake)

16. "Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor electrical connector." (Yes, I did crack this one a little).

17. "Disconnect the electronic throttle body electrical connector."

18. "Disconnect the evaporative emissions (EVAP) tube." This is at the upper rear of the TB. Another difficult "quick release" plastic-ring connector which is stubborn and breakable. (similar to the crankcase vent tube in step 4c). I didn't remove the other end - at the EVAP emissions canister purge valve - no need to.

19. "Disconnect the fuel rail temperature sensor electrical connector." It's at the back end of the RH fuel rail, it is back there somewhere. As pictured, I discovered that I should disconnect this as I was pulling the Intake Manifold out.

20. "Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system module electrical connector."

21. "Remove the vacuum harness." (It's not recommended, but) I only removed the two EGR vacuum boots on the front side of the EGR. The Fuel Pressure Sensor vacuum line remained at the Sensor and also at the Throttle Body. It was never removed but it should be. I was also very careful with it when manifold/TB were off.

22a. Engine Appearance Cover BRACKETS: Detach anything attached to them. Plastic attachments are very brittle, maybe use a narrow needle nose pliers to pry them out.
As the diagram states: "Disconnect the engine wiring harness retainers from the engine appearance cover support brackets."

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

22b. "Remove the 4 nuts and the 2 engine appearance cover brackets." Not the one pictured, but I bought an 8mm deep well socket for reassembly. Note the Diagram RH and LH discrepancy to add confusion.

23. "Disconnect the 8 fuel injector electrical connectors."

24. Gray-colored noise-reducing capacitor connectors: Don't disconnect these; just remove the nut holding them in place. Pulling each connector itself is a wasted effort and you may
break one for that effort. Diagram states: "Remove the 2 nuts and the 2 radio interference capacitors."

25. "Disconnect the Knock Sensor (KS) and Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connectors." Pretty much disconnect any connectors you see along the fuel rail, but with these you might do the disconnecting before the detaching then see if you can slide the attached end off rather than pulling at it and breaking it.

26. Engine Ground wire: At the back LH side there is an engine ground attached to one of the Intake Manifold bolt studs; remove the nut and the ground from this end of it only. Maybe twist-tie the wire up somewhere visible. (10mm socket w/ shortest extension - I have a 1.5" extension, about the same length as just using a 10mm deep well socket).

27. "Remove the Crankcase Vent Tube." Some more fun with these "quick" release fittings . . . more accurately, "quick insert".

28a. Fuel Supply Line: Step 2 is done?!?!? The Fuel Line is located at the front of the LH Fuel Rail. It is a special connector requiring a special tool. First things first. . . . remove the holding clip.

28b. The Fuel Supply Line connector is referred to as a Spring Lock Coupling; it is similar to A/C connections. The green one here is 1/2" (this set was 10 or 12 bucks and you WILL need the tool). Simple to use and an easy off. You might also try the less bulky type since I barely got the bulky piece of plastic tool where it needed to be.

29. EGR MODULE removal.
29a. FIRST, Fuel Pressure Sensor needs to be removed OUT OF THE WAY! Remove the two 8mm bolts. Note that these 2 bolts at the Fuel Pressure
Sensor are probably not overly tight. With the bolts out pull and/or carefully pry the Sensor up and out.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

29b. The Exhaust Tube at the EGR needs to be loosened before the EGR module can be removed. This might be a challenge! You first need a 27mm open-end wrench. You can use some rust-breaking penetrant on it beforehand to help (Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster). The "Tube Flange Nut", as it's called, is a free-floating nut at the end of the tube - which has a lip on it to keep the nut on the tube itself. Therefore, the nut needs to be unthreaded from the back of the EGR counter-clockwise . . . viewing from the back of it). With the 27mm low on the nut, lift UP to loosen.

NOTE NOTE NOTE: Possibly skip 29c. and entirely removing EGR until Manifold/Throttle Body removed. Going by the 'HOW TO ARTICLES, REPLACE THE V8 LINCOLN LS INTAKE MANIFOLD', I did remove the EGR before the manifold was removed. In the Workshop Manual, ENGINE DISASSEMBLY, this is also done before "remove the intake manifold"
It SEEMS that this could be done AFTER the Manifold/TB is removed and only LOOSENING those two 10mm EGR bolts with the Intake Manifold still in place. With the IM off, THEN easily remove the EGR from TB before placing the Intake Manifold upside-down for cleaning. I may be wrong, soooo....

29c. There are two 10mm bolts holding the EGR on. There is also a metal gasket in there. I ended up dropping the gasket - it falls through a crevice to rest on top of the block; that didn't matter since taking the IM off anyway. (Also, I'm not convinced that a NEW metal gasket is completely necessary).

Note: Degas Bottle is still in but you want to do that after Intake Manifold is out.

30a. "Remove the 4 bolts and the coolant bypass housing." Often referred to as the Crossover or Main Thermostat Housing and Cover assembly). Four 8mm bolts, (8mm socket with extension) and pull straight out.

Spoiler: Don't Read This

The previous step was to become my greatest undoing! It was done much earlier than this.
Before I had gotten the required wrench for the EGR flange nut, instead of waiting with it I removed the Crossover (Bypass Housing) with IM and TB still on. As a result of this I did not notice that the 9F814 TB Heater hose (from behind 9N499 Inlet Pipe) belongs ABOVE this Bypass Housing, along with my hurried assembly . . . and all for the sake of progress. Also I didn't have a picture of it as such. As shown in the pictures, Crossover was removed much earlier as if Step # ??

31a. Main Wiring Harness Retainer. Remove the top two 10mm nuts.

31b. Now the fun part. Theres an identical 10mm nut on the low RH rear of this plastic junction/"retainer". Not a special tool, but simply a 10mm ratcheting box-end wrench is a must-have. By this time I WAS considering doing this how-to, so here is a picture of where to reach. First get familiar with the feel of where this is located! Another picture after IM removed shows it, but you will only be able to make 1/8th or quarter of a ratcheting turn at a time. Fortunately I was able to reach OVER the top of this plastic harness-retainer with my other hand to keep the wrench in place and nothing was dropped (amazing).

31c. Lift Main Harness Junction "Retainer" up and off the studs.

32. INTAKE MANIFOLD, REMOVE:
32a. Have fuel injectors/harness etc. out of the way of course. Loosen the 8 bolts according to the loosening sequence. Do this in (at least) 2 sequence loosenings; first just slightly (then slightly more, if you want), then the same sequence for removal. There are 7 bolts and 3 studded bolts (those are for the two gray capacitors and the engine ground).
NOTE: The sequence for loosening happens to be identical to the bolt tightening sequence when re-assembling.

[/COLOR]

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

32b.Working from RH/passenger side, Lift the IM slightly up at the front and slightly forward, to clear that rear stud you just dealt with in back from it's plastic groove in the wire harness "retainer" plastic (arrow pointing at it in the dark picture). Once clear of that lift it to rest at an angle to get at the rear hose. The hose clamp is unique as pictured and by luck my largest ChannelLocks was able to grab at both clamping ends of it at once. The hose itself should not be difficult, so the Intake Manifold is now out . . .

. . . now out, but I don't like what I see (needing new VCGs!). I cleaned up all the ports of the muck using carb and/or parts cleaner. Carb cleaner will soften plastic so I was careful about it. I used the spray-straw on the can to shoot the injectors clean - again, being very careful to not spray anything plastic.

33. "Remove the 4 bolts and the coolant inlet housing." Four 8mm bolts. This makes removing the intake manifold worth it! Sometimes called the Elbow, the pipe, coolant Inlet, coolant outlet, or more affectionately 9N499. Not removing the IM to replace this still requires lifting the IM to clear the back 2 bolts. This 9N499 should be lifted straight up and straight out as there are plastic locating tabs on the bottom of it which can break (same as Crossover/Bypass). You will also find that the O-ring underneath is completely flattened and useless - IOW don't exclude any o-rings from your parts order.

It turns out that it is very worthwhile to remove the Intake Manifold if you have the patience and a few tools. The 9N499 pipe, the Degas coolant return hose, the 9F814 hose to TB (next step), replacing IM Gaskets, cleaning stuff up, even replacing all spark plugs (which I did) are all possible and simpler with the Intake Manifold removed

34. "Remove the throttle body coolant hose."

35a. DEGAS BOTTLE: Remove the Two 10mm bolts holding the Degas Bottle in place. (Overflow/"Vent" hose was removed from step 11). The Coolant System Air Bleed Hose is only attached to the side of the bottle and can be removed from the bottle if you prefer (don't do this with the snugly attached new one).

35b. Remove the Air Bleed hose; this one should be easy.

35c. Now for the pain: the Degas Bottle Return Hose is low and in a cramped space. It has been suggested to carefully cut this one. I didn't do that. I used a long hose pliers to work the hose loose from where the end of the tube (deepest inside the hose) will start to break its grip, then worked my way slightly up until no longer possible. It really was as if melted and glued in place. I used my largest flat (and fattest) slotted screwdriver to push at the end of the hose (using the SIDE of the flat blade screwdriver, not the end of it), working around it and it snapped loose. I would suggest cleaning this tube very well - where you can't see the firewall side of it - before installing the new one. The Degas Bottle (with Return Hose) can now be removed.
Also, before putting the new one on I used WD-40 on it (not just water or soapy water. CRC Silicone lubricant was also an option)(if this risks contaminating the cooling system, I prefer that over leaking and overheating).

36. Clean all gasket mating surfaces as meticulously as you possibly have the patience for. This is somewhat critical. Others may have tips on the best way to go about this tedium. I have my own methods but patience is key. Use Acetone, Denatured Alcohol or somesuch for final cleaning before reassembly.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

37. Water Pump: out, new one in. This can be done at any time although it might be easiest with all the above removed.

The water pump is really easy. Loosen pulley bolts, THEN take off belt. Remove pulley. Remove bolts (5?). Install new one. No sealers needed on a new gasket. Loosely install pulley. Install belt. Tighten down pulley bolts. Thirty minutes, max.
Only problem is the water pump is seldom the cause of any issues. A bad squeal from the pump, or a leak out the shaft are signs to replace the pump. Otherwise, it's a pretty reliable part. They squeal when the seals or bearings go bad, not really a major or alarming sound.

I like this simple and easy "instructional" (mostly). I left the belt ON the pulley as I took the pulley off. Secondly, I replaced the pulley without the belt on it in order to align the 3 bolts. The belt can be pulled up with SOME effort!

Accessory Drive Belt: I didn't replace the belt, less than a year old, replaced when I had the P/S pump replaced. Accessory Drive Belt

Also:

The loose bag of insulation laying there? It's supposed to be there and you should leave it there. They (V8s) all have them.

V8 LS Intake Manifold

What to do next?
Installation is the reverse of removal (not really).
Less-than-true to the title of this post, DISASSEMBLY accomplished. Assembly may actually be easier though.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

 

[1LoudLS]

well done and nicely documented. I'd vote for this to become a sticky.

 

[heyjewel]

Yeah this was fantastic.

Can you do a V6 now? (Kidding)

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

my coolant spayed all over the engine bay upon it overheating the other day. Any idea where it can be leaking to spray all over like that?

There's really no need to find the exact thing that is leaking. You have to replace it all at the same time anyway.

personally I'm a big fan of just doing it right and I'd take off the intake if I had to do the job.

Read this first for some excellent tips and info! Plus all part numbers.
GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul


With disassembly the Intake Manifold removal was nearly the last thing. If assembly was the reverse of disassembly then the Intake Manifold would go in [almost] first (after the Degas Bottle), and before the front hoses, etc. The Workshop Manual doesn't have a procedure for replacing the entire cooling system but if so, IM removal might have been earlier so that the assembly would be the "reverse of disassembly". Aside from that it mostly is. I prefer that the front hoses etc. are out (all but the CROSSOVER!) BEFORE the IM removal. This makes the IM almost the last thing removed (Degas is last). In the following assembly the IM is also nearly the last thing replaced.

A quick overview of the assembly: Degas Bottle should be done right away. Aux pump and DCCV can go in. The 9N499 elbow Inlet pipe MUST be in, then Crossover - with thermostat assembled - goes to that. Of course 9F814 TB Heater Hose behind 9N499 also MUST be in, although maybe after the Crossover is in so that the hose is on top of the Crossover when installed (and not do what I did!). Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses can go in (and Radiator Support Bracket). THEN the IM and the rest of the small stuff. Overall starting at the lowest area and working up. New Water Pump should be in by now if replaced (Coolant Pump, 2W9Z-8501-BB) COOLANT PUMP REPLACE

1. DEGAS BOTTLE - 5W4Z-8A080-AA
1a. Degas Bottle Return Hose. Feed the Return Hose underneath the Brake Booster into place where it belongs - you may have to get creative here. If it doesn't just push through (under the Brake Booster) maybe pull it through using a snaked-through wire tied at the clamp then pull it through (you will find that most clamps on the Motorcraft hoses are spot-glued onto the hose and are locked in the open position ready to release and snap shut). This being the first hose to attach I began with spraying just soapy water on the metal tube and it didn't go so good. Use what you prefer I guess.

I did mention this once before, but with several hose connections I used a thin application of WD-40 to make life easier and to not force and break anything. I did this even at the top of the radiator for the upper hose. Maybe there's better advice than that(?).

1b. Pressure Cap on (9C3Z-8101-B). Air Bleed Hose on and clamped. Degas bottle in Place and the 2 bolts in, 53 in-lb. (if you are not using a torque wrench for this just be aware that it is not overly tight with the shallow metal threads).

NOTE: Mostly going backwards with the disassembly steps, but will wait with the TB Coolant Hose (heater hose) 9F814. This can wait until the Crossover/Coolant Bypass is in place. Starting from the lowest area and working up (disassembly step 14, Aux Pump). . . . and going a few steps in reverse from there then back to disassembly steps 33/34 (9F814 and 9N499) somewhat in reverse from there.

2. COOLANT AUXILIARY PUMP - 5W4Z-18D473-A
Of the 3 hoses coming from the direction of the heater core, those will mostly fall into place where they belong, but the one with a downwward bend goes to the top of the Auxliary Pump. For now tie the 2 that don't have the downward bend aside; I used a shoelace as pictured. This will make it easy to install the Aux Pump.
Notice the topmost hose from the heater core is marked green and goes to the UPPER outside/passenger side of the DCCV. The DCCV, when installed, will be at a 45 degree angle facing these heater core hoses.

2a. The Pump-to-Crossover hose (3W4Z-18472-AC) can be attached to the SIDE inlet of the pump before installing the Pump. It's the end with a longer length to the bend. Before clamping it, I held it approximately where it belonged, with hose attached, making sure of the angle. It needs to be at the correct angle going to the Thermostat Housing/Crossover (low side of it) which is also even with the top and center of the radiator fan shroud. When sure of the angle then release the clamp.

2b. Attach the Heater Core Hose with the downward bend to the top of the pump. Before releasing the clamp shut make sure the pump-with-hoses is oriented correctly for its mount location.

2c. If hoses are on at the correct angle the pump will easily go into place to be secured, two 10mm screws.

2d. Connect the Electrical connector at the bottom of the Aux Pump from underneath the car.

3. DUAL COOLANT CONTROL VALVE (DCCV) - 2R8Z-18495-AA or YG-378

3a. I was able to put one hose onto the DCCV out of the box (as done with the Aux Pump). Of the 3 inlet/outlets, the lower inlet on the DCCV is for this hose which curves straight up (3W4Z-18472-AD) to the plastic 'T' of the Upper Radiator Hose. I went by my own picture of the old hose clamped in place to accurately get the new one clamped in place.

3b. In pictures from disassembly, the green marked top hose can be seen. Clamp this one to the outer/RH/fender side of the DCCV. Attach and clamp the remaining heater hose to the DCCV.
When installing of DCCV the electrical connector can wait until the DCCV is mounted on the bracket.

3c. Mount the DCCV into its slotted bracket. This may be a friction-fit to get it into place but bring it straight in from YOUR right to left (it will be in place at a 45 degree angle as mentioned). Align the bolt holes, tighten the 8mm bolt. Electrical connector on - make sure the red connector slide is then pushed down to lock it into place after connected.

Before upper and lower radiator hoses, the Crossover(Coolant Bypass Housing) will go in, but that, in turn, is attached to 9N499, soooo......

4. COOLANT INLET HOUSING - 2W9Z-9N499-AC
4a. Make sure the surface for the Inlet Pipe is perfectly clean (also Crossover mating surface clean because the Inlet tube will get in the way of cleaning once installed). New O-ring on the front/top of Inlet (W707299-S300), and new O-ring (XW4Z-8255-CA) into the lower side of the Inlet.

4b. Take notice of the plastic locating tabs when setting it in place. Tighten the 4 bolts EVENLY, in a gradual sequence, to 89 in-lb.
I had ordered 3 new (shorter) bolts for the Thermostat housing to Crossover Housing. I used the shiny new ones for that purpose, but I used 2 of the old (shorter) ones at the back of 9N499 (no need to explain the rationale).

Order two (2) new bolts for the thermostat housing (plastic to plastic parts - 8592 to 8548).
. . These bolts are perfect for replacing the two bolts at the back side
. . when reinstalling the Plastic Elbow (9N499).

(I shortened the quote)(Great advice!)

5. ASSEMBLE THERMOSTAT and THERMOSTAT HOUSING to COOLANT BYPASS HOUSING

All of the following: Crossover (3W4Z-8548-AD), Thermostat housing/cover (3W4Z-8592-AA), O-ring between those (2W9Z-8590-AB), Thermostat assembly (2W9Z-8575-AB) . . . all need to be put together. Tighten the 3 Bolts (W500014-5439) for Cover to Crossover EVENLY, in gradual sequence, to 89 in-lb. Engine fill cap (3W4Z-8A511-AB).

So do you put it all together then install? Or more like the diagrams showing the Crossover going in (w/out thermostat), then Thermostat Housing to that? Either way would work.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

6. Crossover/COOLANT BYPASS HOUSING Assembly
6a. Place the two 37mm O-rings (96JV-8255-CB) into the back of the Crossover. (Engine mating surface is clean?!?)

6b. There are plastic locating tabs in back at the 2 smaller coolant passages; install this directly straight in. The new 0-ring on the Inlet pipe makes this very difficult. I coated the O-ring with Silicone Lubricant (motor oil maybe would be ok here) It needs to go on without anything breaking. Before the plastic tabs reach the coolant passages there is the slightest amount of wiggle room to move the assembly on the O-ring to get it started over the large, tight-fitting O-ring. Once started, then straight in and with care! The 4 bolts should be EVENLY tightened, in sequence, to 89 in-lb.

7. THROTTLE BODY COOLANT HOSE - 3W4Z-9F814-AA
AKA THROTTLE BODY HEATER HOSE, can now be installed and will rest on top of the Crossover. Yep.
If this step were done in the order I did, just simply remember to bring TB Heater hose ABOVE the Crossover to rest there.

8. Aux Pump HOSE is now resting right where it should be. Clamp that into place at the lower front of the Thermostat housing.

Spoiler: backwards?

Yet ANOTHER possible blunder?! . . . By the pictures, now looking at them, it appears as if I have the Aux Pump Hose in with the LONGER stretch of bended hose UP and the shorter bent end DOWN at the Pump. #$%BACKWARDS! I will have to look at that! As of now 1400+ miles on it with no issues, and the degas bottle hasn't lost a drop. So, finally confident concerning the C/S. But if this hose is on backwards, well, I guess i've proven that it works out; although no consolation for a backwards job. Did I mention my hurry? Take the time to look at your work because I have a bigger problem ahead which is already apparent by now but I hadn't yet realized it.

9. UPPER RADIATOR HOSE - 3W4Z-8260-BC
Inspect the radiator closely around the inlet and the RH side plastic of the radiator (this inspection should have been done on disassembly. I didn't replace the radiator and there was no leak from there but that might be next, who knows).

9a. Attach the upward facing hose from DCCV onto the plastic T of the Upper Radiator Hose.

9b. Clamp the Upper Hose to Radiator and then to the Crossover (Coolant Bypass Housing). Upper Rad. Hose is now in.

9c. Install Upper Radiator Support Bracket - three 8mm screws.

10. LOWER RADIATOR HOSE - 3W4Z-8286-CB
10a. Clamp the 2 small hoses to the oil cooler (the way that they fall into place).

10b. Clamp the Lower end of the hose to the radiator. Line up the bolt hole to the bracket, tighten the 13mm studded bolt, 89 in-lb. Install upper end of the hose.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

11. INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS - 2W9Z-9439-AA
Gasket area surface clean of course. Bend the tabs neatly and tightly to the manifold (they need to stay in place when setting the Manifold down to install the vacuum hose at the back).

I highly recommend replacing the gaskets, can't think of a reason not to

I don't recommend skipping a new gasket install. Anyhow, clean up your Intake Manifold and Engine Block ports and surfaces real well. And don't be lazy about it, the cleaner and smoother the surface will be the cleaner and smoother the seal.

This should be reason enough to purchase NEW IM gaskets.

12. INTAKE MANIFOLD
12a. Insulation piece should be in where you found it. Everything tied or set aside out of the way. Twist-tie the rear engine ground wire up toward the windshield. Engine gasket-mating surface perfectly clean!


Make sure the Cylinder Head Temp sensor (CHT) wire and 2 Knock Sensor (KS) wires are exiting [what will be] the void between the engine block and Intake Manifold. From the front there will be 2 knock Sensor wires, 1 at EACH front side corner (see diagram) and the CHT Sensor (long wire) which will go out the front corner to the drivers side. They will be angled out the corners of the front but not in the way of setting the Manifold down at the front.
From the pictures, I had the CHT wire hanging straight out the front. This turned out alright since I could still move the wire over to where it needed to be

12b. Set the IM down at an angle as pictured (close to but not against or on Inlet 9N499 Pipe). Attach the rear vacuum hose and clamp it. I cheated here and used worm clamps which is not condoned or recommended, and NEVER to be used on plastic fittings. The original clamp is best. Since it's not plastic tubing and since I using stainless steel clamps with a smooth inner band, as long as the ends didn't catch on anything I considered it to be ok (Just use the original clamp).

12c. Make sure the gaskets are still holding in place. As with the Intake Manifold removal . . . keep in mind the rear stud going under and through the Main Wiring Harness "Retainer" and install the Manifold with the front end slightly tilted up and the rear slightly down with that stud going under and through the plastic harness retainer. Gaskets still in place? Pictures show to make sure things are as they should be before it was rested into place.

12d. Of the 10 bolts, 3 are studded: the 2nd from the rear on each side for the noise interference capacitors, and the rearmost drivers side for the engine ground. Tighten all bolts according to the Sequence and to the specified Torque, 15 ft-lb.

I did this, not in 2, but 4 stages of tightening. The first 2 times without the torque wrench, barely then lightly snug; then with torque wrench to 10 ft-lb and lastly to 15 ft-lb. . . in sequence.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

13. MAIN WIRING HARNESS RETAINER. Lift this up and forward, replacing it onto the 2 studs. Two 10mm nuts. Wait with the 10mm nut at the back (or never)(I replaced it but did that last). Torque is not important it seems, either 70 or 89 in-lbs going by the diagrams.

EGR: I mentioned in the disassembly that the EGR possibly can be removed still intact with IM. Still not sure but possibly can go on with IM (????) and then tightened to spec. after IM installed(?). My guess is that on RE-assembly it would awkwardly hit against it's exhaust tube with flange nut when installing

14. EGR MODULE. Two 10mm bolts. The metal gasket needs to have the the raised part of it toward the IM (use a piece of wire through one of the EGR Module bolt holes and the gasket to prevent the gasket from dropping as you start the other bolt. Tighten those to 18 lb-ft (that makes them tighter than the Intake Manifold bolts, no air leaks needed). Tighten the 27mm flange nut to 30 lb-ft.

15. FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR. With the rubber o-ring it will go in tight, a bit of oil helps. Two 8mm bolts do NOT need to be so very tight, 44 in-lb.

16. FUEL SUPPLY LINE. At front of LH fuel rail, insert and it should click in.

As with Dissasembly, the Workshop Manual contains several steps for ENGINE ASSEMBLY.

17. "Connect the fuel rail temperature sensor electrical connector." . . . at the very back of the RH fuel rail. (I put this step sooner rather than later. When the IM was in place I inserted the IM bolts a few threads, then made sure this connector was to be found).

18. "Connect the 2 throttle body coolant hoses" aka TB heater hoses. Maybe leave one end of the short hose (3W4Z-9F813-AC) loose until the (longest) Vent Hose to Degas Bottle is clamped on (Step 27).

19. ENGINE GROUND WIRE. LH rear IM bolt is studded for this wire and 10mm nut. The wire which you may have tied up toward the windshield. (picture is from disassembly)

20. "Install the 2 radio interference ignition capacitors and nuts. Tighten to 89 in-lb." These are the gray colored connectors, one on each side.

21. "Install the crankcase vent tube"

22. "Connect the KS and CMP sensor electrical connectors. Attach the pin-type retainers." These connectors with "pin-type retainers" were possibly removed by sliding them off of the inserted "retainer" rather than pulling the entire thing out; in that case first slide the one half of the connector back on, then connect it. Also connect the CHT sensor - LH side above the KS.

23. "Connect the 8 fuel injector electrical connectors" A dab of dielectric grease? (I was in too much of a hurry). You should hear them click on; if not pull on them slightly to make sure.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

24. Install the 2 engine appearance cover BRACKETS and the 4 nuts. Tighten to 53 lb-in". Elbow measured torque is fine.

25a. "Attach the vacuum hose retainers onto the LH engine appearance cover support bracket"

25b. LH and RH: "Connect the engine wiring harness retainers to the engine appearance cover support brackets."
All of the brittle plastic - if they will still insert and stay in place - back into the BRACKET holes.

26. "Install the vacuum harness." Two boots at the front of the EGR, one boot to the Fuel Pressure Sensor and then to the back of the TB.

27. "Connect the coolant vent hose to the coolant outlet." Also to the Degas Bottle, then connect the other end of TB heater hose from step 18.

28. "Connect the EGR system module electrical connector."

29. "Connect the evaporative emissions (EVAP) tube." At the back of the Throttle Body.

30. "Connect the electronic throttle body electrical connector."

31. "Connect the fuel pressure sensor electrical connector"

32. "Connect the throttle position (TP) sensor electrical connector."

33. The remaining 10mm nut at the back of the Main Wiring Harness Junction/"retainer" (see diagram(s) at step 13). 10mm ratcheting box wrench. I used a rolled piece of duct tape to the glove (duct tape, then taped that with masking tape, HA) and stuck the nut. I got it on without dropping anything; this was iffy and there's probably a better way. If dropped not a great big deal I guess.

34. INTAKE AIR SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER
Once in, then connect everything that goes to it: Mass Air Flow Sensor, Crankcase Vent Tube, Chassis Vacuum Hose.
Refer to step 4a to 4f of DISASSEMBLY and the LINK above.

35. CROSS-VEHICLE SUPPORT BRACE: Tighten the 7 bolts evenly, to 15ft-lb. Make sure the center bracket goes under the windshield washer tubing.

36. COWL PANEL GRILLE and WINDSHIELD WIPERS
Re-attach the 3 windshield washer tubes. Using the plastic inserts, at an angle, get the Panel into place first. At each end of the windshield pull the rubber molding piece above the ends of the panel. Before you insert each pin-type retainer, push the pin from below each one to be one click above. When replaced in the Cowel Panel push the pin back in to lock each one in place.

37. Replace the pin-type retainer at each rubber end-molding piece the same way, 1 at each corner of the windshield.

38. Windshield wipers can go on the same way they came off, starting with the hood closed and the wipers folded up to get the nut started. Raise the hood. Line up the wipers with the defrost line on the windshield. Nut torque is 18 ft-lb. Rubber covers on each nut.

39. Radiator Sight Shield: 4 plastic retainers.

The Splash Shield under the car can wait until after Coolant fill and after everything appears to be fine with the car running. Refer back to Step 1 of Disassembly if needed; same with Engine Appearance Cover.

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

40. Fuel Pump Relay 007 back in and Battery terminal(s) connected.

41. Cooling System Coolant Fill and Bleed. First make sure the Radiator Draincock is tightened back up with 19mm wrench or socket with extension. Don't overtighten, just sealed-shut tight.
Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding

WARNING: Do not open the cooling system while it is hot or the engine is running. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.

CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

• Remove the engine fill cap.
  
• Open the heater air bleed.
  
• Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
  
• Install the degas bottle cap.
  
• Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
  
• Install the engine fill cap.
  
• Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).
  NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
  
• Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position.
  
• Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during engine idle.
  
• Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.
  
• Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again.
  
• Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
  
• Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
  
• Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes.
  
• Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
  
• After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.
  
  While doing the coolant into Engine Fill I was finally taking my sweet time, as if no hurry to find out the bad news. I exercised complete patience while filling at the Engine Fill. When topped off (seemingly) I walked away for 5 to 10 minutes at a time (cleaning up, organizing tools). It would bubble down and I would fill it back up each time with merely a couple ounces. I did this 4 times (aprox. 1/2 hour) as the procedure says, to "Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill". The fill/bleed was a complete success on the first attempt - none of this "it needs to be bled 5 times" hocus. The other thing of note is that I brought the RPM up to 2k (fill cap on of course) with bleeder still open and it let out one last sizeable burp of air followed by a heavy and steady flow of coolant. All has been fine with it since! I didn't try the "add a little and squeeze the Upper Hose" trick either, so who knows . . maybe that does help it along.
  
  
  
  
  
  Spoiler: What's wrong with this picture?

  Snapped this picture, one hose clamp not in place (not so critical). Even worse, the ground wire strap was not yet on, and I went through the fill/bleed procedure like that (can see it at the white twist-tie, behind, lurking in the shadows waiting to be found). Zoom in and you will see something not quite right with side-grasping plastic at top of the EGR. It's not worth that much of a hurry when doing this, BUT .. . it turned out great, the car runs fantastic, we happy.

This is how I "remember" assembly, with the pictures and DISassembly notes aiding my memory. I'm sure there is something I missed. Several indications this has been apart before and did not find this either . . .

Now you will notice that once you remove the Intake Manifold, there should be two heat insulators. If there aren't, then your Intake Manifold has been removed before.

. . . the biggest lesson learned here is to not do this in too much of a frenzied hurry! I beat the sub-freezing temps by a day (thank you parts place haha); my LS then would have sat until spring weather or else have been taken to a mechanic to have it done but where's the fun in that? If I can do it anyone can!

 

[jimmy McGill]

I just want to say thank you for taking the time and effort to post all of this info. It is very useful and most appreciated. I know it's been a few years but I just came across this and I need some help with my Lincoln Ls V8 '05. New "everything" (almost) including a CAI (K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake), and most recently an aluminum degas reservoir tank because I am DONE with plastic when I can avoid it. Problem is not getting a trickle from bleed valve (I'm an expert at the bleeding process by now, countless hours of thread reading and trial and error). I would greatly appreciate any knowledge or suggestions that you may have for me. Thank you

 

[04_Sport_LS]

jimmy,

Click on this link:

Aluminium Degas Bottle

Member "Stinkin lincoln 1" installed one of the aluminum bottles. He may have some extra advice on how to bleed the system with that bottle.

Otherwise... you may just have alot of air trapped in the system.

 

[John_Carr]

jimmy,

Click on this link:

Aluminium Degas Bottle

Member "Stinkin lincoln 1" installed one of the aluminum bottles. He may have some extra advice on how to bleed the system with that bottle.

Otherwise... you may just have alot of air trapped in the system.

Just a thought: could a hand vacuum pump connect to the bleeder spout pull the air out of the system?

 

[04_Sport_LS]

While not a bad idea... I think a hand vacuum pump would be very slow and wouldn't be able to handle the volume... or draw enough vacuum. It would take a long time... if you could even get enough of a draw on roughly 2 gallons of coolant. Kinda like drinking a soda through a coffee stir stick.

A few of us here have discussed an actual cooling system bleeder vacuum pump... but no one has made the purchase yet, that I know of. I think part of that is because no one knows if it will actually work on the LS. Plus the cooling system vacuum bleeder collapses all of the hoses under full vacuum.

The "cooling system vacuum bleeder" (Google search that term) also requires an air compressor with a certain minum CFM volume rating (Cubic Feet per Minute) at a particular PSI (typically 90).

Personally... the more I have looked into this... I'm not too keen on drawing a vacuum on a system that has alot of plastic parts. The side tanks on the radiator are pretty thin.

It can also take 2 or 3 tries to get the cooling system completely full using the cooling system vacuum bleeder pump... and that's depending on the cooling system to be able to hold a vacuum.

 

[joegr]

...Personally... the more I have looked into this... I'm not too keen on drawing a vacuum on a system that has alot of plastic parts. The side tanks on the radiator are pretty thin...

While I have similar fears, to be fair the factory service manual does recommend using a vacuum bleeder.

Filling and Bleeding With RADKITPLUS

1. Using the special tool, install the RADKITPLUS and follow the RADKITPLUS manufacturer's instructions to fill and bleed the cooling system.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Gee Joe... I've never seen you mention that before... after all these years. You've been holding out on us.

Well the Snap-on and Blue Point versions are pricey. The U-view seems to have become popular due to the lower price than the above mentioned. The cone shaped adapter seems like it could be problematic.

Still not sure about this. I could see causing a leak, (where there was none before), by pulling a vacuum. Especially where rubber and plastic meet... like the wye on the upper radiator hose.

Been thinking about John's question... and I wonder if it could be practical/feasable to pull a vacuum on the bleeder hose with a venturi vaccum... using something like a sand blasting siphon gun???

 

[EsaEsLaElEs]

Problem is not getting a trickle from bleed valve

Great to know it helped a little and that it wasn't just more confusion to the process. I'm thankful for the words and this is really something because an email alert arrived from the LVC and I just happened to see it; I haven't had the car in almost a year and haven't done anything much mechanical ever (except bike mechanics).
What some notable members (who I am myself grateful towards) have mentioned has got to be worth looking into, and also is way above my head!
Funny though you mention "not getting a trickle" since the exact same happened to me. I was needing to get the thing done and the forecast was for subfreezing outside temps the very next day if I remember. I was doing the bleeding and waited, no trickle. Waited some more, more, then lost my patience; I stepped on the gas like I meant it (and I think the LS doesn't just start winding up to redline, right?), then checked and behold the streaming coolant that came forth. I was pretty thrilled at that but don't know if it's the "solve" here, just know it worked for me when not getting a drop of trickle.
Thanks again. Good luck!

 

[jimmy McGill]

Thank you for the advice, I have spent hours trying to bleed the system with this new aluminum degas bottle but still have had no luck. I will try to "push it" a bit harder and see if that gets the desired reaction. I'm also waiting on valve gaskets to ship to me because I noticed a lot of oil in my spark plug valves a few days ago. I know my gaskets need to be replaced. Do you think these 2 issues could be related? The non-bleeding of my coolant and the excessive oil in my spark plug valves (passenger side)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you